Cleaning advice from Leica

[Kiwimac]

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I was in the Leica Store in Sydney today. 
 

I had noticed a couple of dust spots on my M11-P so I was going to have them clean it, since I rarely have access to a genuine Leica Store (there aren’t any in NZ). They couldn’t see any dust now  

I mentioned that I’d used a filtered air puffer which might explain why the dust seemed to have gone. 
 

I was cautioned politely not to clean it that way because dust can be puffed into the range finder assembly which necessitates far more effort to clean, probably in Germany. 
 

I make no comment on the advice but thought I’d pass it on. 
 

Also, M11 Safari batteries are available from stock. 

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[SrMi]

Interesting. The alternative would be to use a brush (e.g. Arctic Butterfly).

[businessasusual]

Do you mean camera body, Kiwimac? 

Edited September 5 by businessasusual
Error

[Kiwimac]

1 hour ago, businessasusual said:

Do you mean camera body, Kiwimac? 

Yes. 

[kiwidad]

2 hours ago, SrMi said:

Interesting. The alternative would be to use a brush (e.g. Arctic Butterfly).

If you google Leica Australia sensor cleaning there is a video showing the use of a blower for lenses only and a wand with a sticky pad on the end to clean the sensor. The wand is actually made by Pentax and marketed under several names. I bought one but haven’t ever used it.
Whilst what the Leica guy said might be true I somehow doubt a minute piece of dust would be noticeable in the rangefinder. . To go a step further I discovered if I blow air into the front of my m11 periodically I get far less occurrences of dust on the sensor from lens changes and now almost a couple of years down the road it night and day compared to the dust sensor occurrences I had when got the used m11. Can’t say I have noticed dust in the rangefinder either. 
 

last legit store I got a free cleaning from while I attended the product pitch session made it dirtier.

 

 

[LocalHero1953]

How does dust get into the rangefinder assembly from the supposedly light-tight part of the body? Sure, it's not supposed to be dust and water proof, but I wouldn't expect any light pathways from the rangefinder down to the sensor, and thus a pathway for dust back again.

Edited September 5 by LocalHero1953

[Gelatino]

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I occasionnally go in a Leica shop in Paris to ask for a sensor cleaning of my M. 

They usually first look at the sensor to locate the dust with a magnifying glass, then use one or two blows of air under pressure before cleaning the sensor with a wet pad. Final inspection and the lens is put back after having received two or three blows of air as well.

All this made for free and kindly, immediately or within less than half an hour.

[250swb]

3 hours ago, Kiwimac said:

I was in the Leica Store in Sydney today. 
 

I had noticed a couple of dust spots on my M11-P so I was going to have them clean it, since I rarely have access to a genuine Leica Store (there aren’t any in NZ). They couldn’t see any dust now  

I mentioned that I’d used a filtered air puffer which might explain why the dust seemed to have gone. 
 

I was cautioned politely not to clean it that way because dust can be puffed into the range finder assembly which necessitates far more effort to clean, probably in Germany. 
 

I make no comment on the advice but thought I’d pass it on. 
 

Also, M11 Safari batteries are available from stock. 

I know it's boring advice especially if you have a puffer, but I've always said 'don't use a puffer to clean a sensor, you don't know where the dust goes'. So I'm glad Leica NZ have picked up on this. I take the point the light box is supposed to be light tight, but it isn't air tight and I guess compressed air from the puffer can disturb dust otherwise lying dormant inside the top plate. But if the puffed dust from the sensor lands just next to the sensor nobody can see it, and then then gravity or changing lenses drops it back on again. 

[jankap]

So there is room for the invention of a camera washing machine. 

For me the blower is the only thing, that I let to the sensor of my camera. Dust is everywhere - we have a dog and a cat - and I do change lenses. 

[jaapv]

The ideal system is the little vacuum cleaner by Green Clean. It sucks the dust out without touching the sensor. 
 

 

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[JNK100]

The Leicastore in London did an excellent job cleaning my sensor free of charge as it is under warranty.

 

[SrMi]

A common suggestion is never to use compressed air to clean sensors (propellant liquid and too strong forces).

[jaapv]

If you look at the system there is no compressed air used to clean the sensor at all. The air is used to create a vacuum. 

[wizard]

vor 28 Minuten schrieb SrMi:

A common suggestion is never to use compressed air to clean sensors (propellant liquid and too strong forces

I was well aware of that suggestion. However, on my own M11P, there were a few dust particles on the sensor, which I could not locate even when using a 12x magnifying glass. They were clearly visible on the images though. I first thought of cleaning the sensor using a swab, but then decided to give the sensor surface a quick blow of compressed air first. Made sure the propellant had settled (do not direct the very first blow at the sensor) and moderated blow force carefully (with my finger on the can's button) to avoid a full force blow onto the sensor. Bingo, all those specks I had seen on the images, but could not locate (they must have been very small indeed) were gone.

It worked for me. Using a swab and some dedicated cleaning fluid, there is always the risk to bring more dust particles to the sensor surface.

[jaapv]

Actually the Green Clean air is supposed to be lab-quality pure, but I never put it to the test. Sucking the dust out works perfectly. 

[SrMi]

46 minutes ago, wizard said:

I was well aware of that suggestion. However, on my own M11P, there were a few dust particles on the sensor, which I could not locate even when using a 12x magnifying glass. They were clearly visible on the images though. I first thought of cleaning the sensor using a swab, but then decided to give the sensor surface a quick blow of compressed air first. Made sure the propellant had settled (do not direct the very first blow at the sensor) and moderated blow force carefully (with my finger on the can's button) to avoid a full force blow onto the sensor. Bingo, all those specks I had seen on the images, but could not locate (they must have been very small indeed) were gone.

It worked for me. Using a swab and some dedicated cleaning fluid, there is always the risk to bring more dust particles to the sensor surface.

Before using a swab, I would use a blower (not a compressed air blower) followed by a sensor brush (e.g., Arctic Butterfly) if necessary. Sometimes I have to use the Nitecore blower and/or the brush after wet cleaning.

[jaapv]

It is wise to clean the sensor wet from time to time; air pollution will settle on the cover glass, depending a bit on your environment, and deposit an invisible contrast-reducing film. (thing of industrial pollution, Diesel fumes, etc.) And consider the need to wash the windows of your house and inside of your windscreen.

[SrMi]

4 hours ago, jaapv said:

It is wise to clean the sensor wet from time to time; air pollution will settle on the cover glass, depending a bit on your environment, and deposit an invisible contrast-reducing film. (thing of industrial pollution, Diesel fumes, etc.) And consider the need to wash the windows of your house and inside of your windscreen.

The invisible contrast-reducing film gives the camera a filmic look. That is probably the main reason why people prefer output from older M cameras   ... 🤣😆🤪.

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[lct]

15 hours ago, jankap said:

For me the blower is the only thing

+1. No problem with the VisibleDust Zeeion bulb blower in 3+ years. The Green Clean vacuum cleaner sounds interesting though.

 

[Tseg]

Excerpt from my M11-D manual around sensor cleaning:

Important

 

• Any inspection or cleaning of the sensor should

be done in an environment that is as much as

possible dust-free to prevent further contami-

nation.

• Make sure that the aperture is unobstructed

and that nothing can prevent the shutter from

closing correctly, as this would result in damage

to the equipment!

• Do not attempt to physically blow dust particles

off the cover glass of the sensor. The smallest

droplets of saliva could cause stains that will

be difficult to remove.

• Do not use high pressure compressed air clean-

ers as they may also cause damage.

Avoid touching the sensor surface with any

hard object during inspection and cleaning.