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4 minutes ago, SrMi said:

I use that with X2D in manual mode or using a button for a quick switch with the Olympus camera. The problem is that clipping and histograms are inaccurate if exposure simulation is turned off. If I have to suffer an EVF :), I like to see the histogram/clipping information.

Why do you need a histogram? For ETTR? With an ISO-less matrix, this makes no sense. Exposure can always be corrected in Lightroom without losing quality. The only point in more or less accurate exposure is the ability to view photos on the camera after shooting.

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20 minutes ago, SrMi said:

[...] ISO is mainly used as a brightness factor, not an exposure factor. Brightness is not part of exposure, even though post-processors label a slider "exposure." [...]

Changing isos does change exposure for me in that i must change another exposure factor to keep the same exposure, but i don't mind if one call this otherwise than exposure obviously.

 

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57 minutes ago, Smogg said:

Why do you need a histogram? For ETTR? With an ISO-less matrix, this makes no sense. Exposure can always be corrected in Lightroom without losing quality. The only point in more or less accurate exposure is the ability to view photos on the camera after shooting.

Rather practical to check for blown highlights, even if a jpg histogram is not as accurate as it could be. 

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1 hour ago, SrMi said:

I use that with X2D in manual mode or using a button for a quick switch with the Olympus camera. The problem is that clipping and histograms are inaccurate if exposure simulation is turned off. If I have to suffer an EVF :), I like to see the histogram/clipping information.

 

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Not that settled. Many cameras are not ISOless throughout the range, think of dual base ISO for instance. 

 

8 minutes ago, Stephen.s1 said:

Well, we seem to have settled that.

 

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22 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Rather practical to check for blown highlights, even if a jpg histogram is not as accurate as it could be. 

In practice, highlight metering and -1EV guarantees the absence of burnt-out highlights.

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Well after all that I'm waiting with baited breath to see the fabulous photos which an evfM will be capable of. Unless of course its all academic and they won't actually be any better .....

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4 minutes ago, Smogg said:

In practice, highlight metering and -1EV guarantees the absence of burnt-out highlights.

Except at night, for instance with streetlights. 

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4 minutes ago, pgk said:

Well after all that I'm waiting with baited breath to see the fabulous photos which an evfM will be capable of. Unless of course its all academic and they won't actually be any better .....

The large screen can be one of the sales drivers. Although in order to take photos using an external screen, IBIS is desirable, as it is significantly less stable than taking photos using a viewfinder.

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2 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Except at night, for instance with streetlights. 

Of course, we were talking about daylight. In the evening, exposure corrections are completely different.

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1 hour ago, Smogg said:

Why do you need a histogram? For ETTR? With an ISO-less matrix, this makes no sense. Exposure can always be corrected in Lightroom without losing quality. The only point in more or less accurate exposure is the ability to view photos on the camera after shooting.

Mostly highlight clipping, I need it for avoiding losing data due to clipping and maximize the potential of the sensor.

ISO lessness plays no factor at base ISO. At higher ISOs I am less dependent on the clipping information (just add negative EC on the ISO).

Edited by SrMi
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I am a believer in correct exposure for the chosen ISO and prefer using the histogram in A mode and an EV comp wheel. I find that this results in exposure variability between -2 and +1 ½ 

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32 minutes ago, Smogg said:

In practice, highlight metering and -1EV guarantees the absence of burnt-out highlights.

But it may waste the sensor's potential at base ISO and still clip. I would never trust fully an automatic exposure system, though it helps.

Edited by SrMi
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1 minute ago, SrMi said:

But it may waste the sensor's potential at base ISO. I would never trust fully an automatic exposure system, though it helps.

Precisely. See my post above yours. 

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53 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Not that settled. Many cameras are not ISOless throughout the range, think of dual base ISO for instance. 

+1

Most cameras are only ISOless above the dual conversion point.

There is a huge difference in deep shadow noise whether you on the right side of the dual conversion point.

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1 hour ago, jaapv said:

I am a believer in correct exposure for the chosen ISO and prefer using the histogram in A mode and an EV comp wheel. I find that this results in exposure variability between -2 and +1 ½ 

I prefer to select shutter speed and aperture for my chosen degree of motion freezing and depth of focus control. ISO is my main tool for that.

YMMV.

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3 minutes ago, LocalHero1953 said:

I prefer to select shutter speed and aperture for my chosen degree of motion freezing and depth of focus control. ISO is my main tool for that.

YMMV.

Yes, but there is a wide range of shutter speed, with one bound, when motion is frozen. In that range, away from optimum you either clip relevant data or you waste the camera's potential. A rare case is when you shoot for a specific motion effect and there is one shutter speed that is appropriate.

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4 minutes ago, SrMi said:

Yes, but there is a wide range of shutter speed, with one bound, when motion is frozen. In that range, away from optimum you either clip relevant data or you waste the camera's potential. A rare case is when you shoot for a specific motion effect and there is one shutter speed that is appropriate.

Just like ISO - within the limits of your sensor, you can stick with a particular ISO, shutter speed and aperture, and adjust in post. None of this is explaining why, in real-world photography, ISO has to be considered separately from shutter and aperture (or, indeed, the light in the scene). They are all parameters that go to make your photo look as bright, dark, noisy, sharp, bokeh-influenced (etc) as you choose. 

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14 minutes ago, LocalHero1953 said:

Just like ISO - within the limits of your sensor, you can stick with a particular ISO, shutter speed and aperture, and adjust in post. None of this is explaining why, in real-world photography, ISO has to be considered separately from shutter and aperture (or, indeed, the light in the scene). They are all parameters that go to make your photo look as bright, dark, noisy, sharp, bokeh-influenced (etc) as you choose. 

If you change the shutter speed, aperture, or scene light, you will get different images, even if you adjust them in the post. If you change ISO, you won't, except where the sensor is not invariant and when clipping occurs.

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