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1 hour ago, bcaslis said:

No offense but why is anyone using the M11 profile in Lightroom? As stated, it's way too magenta. Red areas look purple. That was one of the first things I did when processing files in Lightroom was to switch profiles. After switching profiles I see no magenta problem with the M11 (I also used Nikon Z9, now Z8 for comparison).

I agree with you. I use darktable software, which has functions similar to Lightroom. However, I've noticed that there isn't as much magenta in darktable photos. This leads me to wonder if the magenta tint comes from Leica or Adobe?

Edited by Evan-Liu
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I have too little experience with LR to point the finger at it but the reddish tint seems to be part of the Leica profile as sugested above. Suffice it to remove that profile if you don't fancy the Leica look with its somewhat cartoon colors. Or more simply reduce red and/or magenta saturation with Photoshop.

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8 hours ago, don daniel said:

Would you like to see some JPG samples out of camera? They suffer from magenta cast as well. Don't look at the numbers that are shown by the RAW converter. Look at the colours!

Sometimes I see a little magenta on the blue hour on the back of the screen, but comparing it to what I see in reality, it was not much far off.

Once images are imported into an image processor a profile gets into play.  I mostly use Capture One, and I think they make the best profiles for cameras. You should just try it as an experiment to see if you get any better results from your existing files.

Leica explains their color results as the European sensibility, unlike the Japanese manufacturers that have a different color response.
I would imagine the different Leica cameras have different sensors that result in little variation.

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I do not use the M11-profile in LR, but I use the Adobe profile. I'll check Capture One again. I have already tried Apple photos. The result ist the same. And don't be afraid of trying JPGs. They are magenta, too. And that is, what the camera does to them. For example try a street scene or a building with grey concrete. 
With the colour pipette in lightroom you can measure the values and see an increased value for red and blue where it should be grey or at least a little more neutral. This is the magenta cast. In the attached picture I get the following values for the concrete wall: R: 58, G: 57: B:60. The automatic white balance has set the tint to +25: Magenta cast.

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If I correct the tint from +25 to +12, I get better values and a correct white balance. R: 58, G:58, B: 59.
I don't understand why the white balance in camera cannot do this by itself. This is morning light in Berlin. That should not be a problem.
 

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Again, I can confirm the "magenta" issue. I can not confirm the source of this problem. I am using M10, SL2 and M11. In my context, the problem is only present with M11  and only with some lenses and only if the color "blue" is dominant in the picture (sea, bad weather, metal structure,....). I use LR but never the M11 profils. Only ADOBE standards. 

 

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On 10/29/2023 at 1:45 PM, scott kirkpatrick said:

Tracking down the focus spot and dragging it back from whatever corner it was hiding in was the rule in 1.6 and it is solved in several ways in 2.0.1.  A  little thing, but a real advance!

That drove me nuts. So glad they’ve fixed that!! I actually avoided LV more or less just because of the fact that the focus point moved so easily and couldn’t be returned home quickly. 

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7 hours ago, bcaslis said:

No offense but why is anyone using the M11 profile in Lightroom? As stated, it's way too magenta. Red areas look purple. That was one of the first things I did when processing files in Lightroom was to switch profiles. After switching profiles I see no magenta problem with the M11 (I also used Nikon Z9, now Z8 for comparison).

What profile do you use / recommend vs. the M11 Profile?

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vor 47 Minuten schrieb Kiwimac:

Does the magenta go away if you use a different white balance setting?

I apologize. I should investigate all this more in detail. But for now, I used only the default setting. Unfortunaly M11 was stolen in summer....  will restart soon some tests. 

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One thing I’d like to see them add is an option to make your profile sticky so that if you’ve got “Fred1” set it returns to that when you turn it on. 
 

At the moment, as soon as you change a setting, it stops being Fred1 and doesn’t go back ever unless you consciously return it to that profile. 
 

It would be nice if you could designate a profile as your default (unless you activate a factory setting reset). 

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vor 3 Stunden schrieb Kiwimac:

Does the magenta go away if you use a different white balance setting?

The magenta cast goes away immediately if you do a manual white balance with a grey card or on grey concrete before taking the picture. Unfortunately, the other settings (AWB and the daylight presets) bring up the magenta cast. This does not depend on the lens. I have three aspherical Leica lenses and three Voigtländer lenses.  The problem occurs with all of them.

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33 minutes ago, don daniel said:

The magenta cast goes away immediately if you do a manual white balance with a grey card or on grey concrete before taking the picture. Unfortunately, the other settings (AWB and the daylight presets) bring up the magenta cast. This does not depend on the lens. I have three aspherical Leica lenses and three Voigtländer lenses.  The problem occurs with all of them.

I live in Europe (so similar sunshine levels to you) and notice the magenta cast with the M11. You're not the only one :)

I have to admit, it took me a while to notice it, but once you have there's no going back (to the point I can often spot a photo taken with the M11)

Edited by mrmalo
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8 hours ago, don daniel said:

If I correct the tint from +25 to +12, I get better values and a correct white balance. R: 58, G:58, B: 59.
I don't understand why the white balance in camera cannot do this by itself. This is morning light in Berlin. That should not be a problem.
 

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My biggest issue with the M11 camera is how it handles colors. Technically, the colors it captures in both DNG and JPEG files are accurate, but they've changed from the look of previous Leica models that I personally preferred. I don't think the M11-P made any changes to this.

In simpler terms, the camera's colors are like numbers it records. While they are technically right, they no longer have the style I liked in older models. I think Leica could make the M11's colors more like the older ones, which many people find more attractive. I've tried using a color profile to match the M11's colors to the M10, but the tint remains consistently off, often looking a bit too magenta, even when using in-camera custom white balance. Currently, M11 photographers are probably getting used to this change, but that's one of the reasons I currently favor using the M10-R.

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10 minutes ago, marchyman said:

The one you create yourself using something like a Colorchecker Passport.

I suggest this one: https://www.cobalt-image.com/product/leicam/

It can be used on the M11 and it reproduces the colors of the M9 and M10-R. However, you may need to make a "TINT" adjustment after applying the profile. Typically, setting a -10 tint for all your images will help eliminate any color cast. By using the Cobalt profile and making the Tint adjustment, you can make your M11 DNG files resemble those from the M10-R.

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