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Hi all, sorry as am sure this is a naive or silly question but thought would check anyways before making a decision so please be gentle :).

I have a Q3 which I enjoy a lot and is an amazing camera but miss the zoom functions or the zoom or prime lens for 50mm and 90mm so looking to have another body which might be a SL2-S or M11.

As to the M11 is there even an option for auto or pass or is it all manual as looking at all the information it seems the camera also is missing the auto focus and its all manual.

I am looking to use the camera for travel at times and family portraits which the Q3 is good but the cropping factor does take from the image on Q3. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

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It's tempting to make fun of the uninitiated, but I still think you deserve a proper answer. The Leica M is based on a 100-year-old concept. There's no autofocus, but manual focus is surprisingly quick, easy and accurate with the built-in rangefinder. There are no actual zoom lenses either. With a few exceptions, all lenses are fixed focal lengths. The exceptions are some lenses with three fixed focal lengths that you can switch between. The M cameras have the option of Auto ISO and Auto shutter speed though.

But it looks like an SL2-S is more what you're looking for, if size doesn't matter.

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3 hours ago, daned said:

As to the M11 is there even an option for auto or pass or is it all manual as looking at all the information it seems the camera also is missing the auto focus and its all manual.

The M11 doesn't have autofocus, and nor does any other M camera. The way the M lenses work hasn't really changed since the 1950s. The M11 does have partial automation of exposure (shutter speed and ISO, but not aperture, because that would also mean changing how the lenses operate). Most M users stick with fixed focal length lenses. The Tri-Elmar lenses can 'zoom' to 3 different focal lengths, but they are large, heavy and relatively slow. You can read about them here, in an article that also covers an interesting prototype that never went into production:

https://www.macfilos.com/2023/01/06/leica-tri-elmar-lenses-and-the-cancelled-m-vario-all-good-things-come-in-twos/

If you want a Leica with a selection of AF zooms, then the SL2-S (or other SL series camera) is what you need.

Edited by Anbaric
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If you have no issues buying used then maybe you want to look into the CL and TL2 with EVF. Leica stopped production recently, which is  shame IMO because there have their merits. Its APS-C (1.5 crop) and 24MP, but very close in quality to the SL system. SL lenses are compatible. Leica also made 'cheaper' and more compact L lenses called T or TL which are excellent.

AF and zooms are available, as well as compact AF primes.

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The M11 is a manual focus camera and there is no autofocus accessory for it but some mirrorless cameras work fine with M lenses and autofocus adapters. Just a snap with Sony A7r2 mod, Super-Angulon 21/3.4 and Techart AF adapter here.

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16 hours ago, evikne said:

I saw the OP lurking around here yesterday, but without commenting on any of the replies. And the other one of his previous posts has been deleted. So it's probably correct that he's just a troll.

Hello evinke,

I think that your Post #3 above was appropriate & nicely done.

I think that some other Posts by others, which were negative, may have led "daned" to go some place else.

Negative responses that forget that: Everyone has to start somewhere & that: Sometimes some people might not know something that other people do know: Are not going to be seen as welcoming to newcomers here.

And, even if the person posting was not who they say they are: Many other people from all over the Planet, with various levels of knowledge about things that you know well, might have benefited from what you wrote appropriately & nicely in your Post #3 above.

Best Regards,

Michael.

Edited by Michael Geschlecht
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Sorry as was traveling for work and could not respond but have read through all the replies and they have all been informative. Not a troll by any means just a newbie in the question for SL vs M camera and wanted feedback before making a decision. Again appreciate alll the  answers as steers me towards a SL3-S body.

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@daned I think nobody wanted to scare you off the M series. Actually, I would encourage you to walk in a Leica store and look through the viewfinder. It is special and unlike any other camera's around today. This is the main reason for this camera series that Leica released in 1953 and that revolutionized the industry at the time. It is also the series that made Leica's name, mainly for the many outstanding (very compact) M lenses designed for it. It was copied eventually by lots of others, long gone. It had its ups and downs, but stood the test of time. The M always provided a unique shooting experience and top quality for informal, documenting types of shots (I believe that is what you do). From the first digital M8 till now it continued its unique position in this digital era and kept compatibility with all (99%) of the M lenses since 1953. After some practice MF with the M is very fast and accurate. All M users are happy to give up AF and some other perks of other systems for its unique way of handling.

So if you want a small FF package with the best IQ and shooting experience (IMO) available in FF, then the M is it. If size and weight does not matter then the SL series can be the better choice.

Edited by dpitt
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On 10/24/2023 at 3:52 AM, evikne said:

It's tempting to make fun of the uninitiated, but I still think you deserve a proper answer. The Leica M is based on a 100-year-old concept. There's no autofocus, but manual focus is surprisingly quick, easy and accurate with the built-in rangefinder. There are no actual zoom lenses either. With a few exceptions, all lenses are fixed focal lengths. The exceptions are some lenses with three fixed focal lengths that you can switch between. The M cameras have the option of Auto ISO and Auto shutter speed though.

But it looks like an SL2-S is more what you're looking for, if size doesn't matter.

A correction...

The current tri-elmar (WATE) is an actual zoom lens. It is fully usable between the click stops and has full zoom functionality if used with the EVF or live view. And it can be focused down to 0.5 meters, which is closer than the RF will allow.

The original tri-elmar (MATE) is NOT a zomm and you can actually damage it if you try to use it between the click stops.

Gordon

and a +1 for assuming the best.... thanks.

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9 minutes ago, FlashGordonPhotography said:

The current tri-elmar (WATE) is an actual zoom lens. It is fully usable between the click stops and has full zoom functionality if used with the EVF or live view.

Thanks for the correction, I didn't know that. What does EXIF say about the focal length if you shoot between the click stops?

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So it seems manual focus might be a good way to get creative but what about shooting modes does it have an auto shooting mode for situations where you just want the camera to do everything or pasm? Or it’s all manual.

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8 hours ago, daned said:

So it seems manual focus might be a good way to get creative but what about shooting modes does it have an auto shooting mode for situations where you just want the camera to do everything or pasm? Or it’s all manual.

If you select Auto ISO and Auto shutter speed (set with one wheel on each side of the camera) exposure is as simple as it gets. But you always have to set the aperture yourself, this is done directly on the lens. Just choose a sensible aperture (preferably not f/16 in a dark room) and the camera will take care of the rest. Just focus and shoot away.

Edited by evikne
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With wide angle lenses like 28mm or 21 mm, you can set it to F 5.6 and 3m distance and shoot away. This is called zone focusing, anything between x and y distance will be in focus. You can vary how big the zone is with the F stop. And you set your lens to 1/3 of the zone. In the example above with 28 mm, anything from 2 - 10m distance will be in focus. With a 21mm that becomes 1,5 to infinity with the same settings.

If you set the M to the A position, all you have to do is point it to the subject and click. This is as close as it gets to auto anything. It is also faster than any AF system. Ideal for street and unpredictable subjects like playing kids or pets.

There is no chance that the M will act up and refuses to shoot at the decisive moment because it hunts between two objects. Or it refuses to focus on what you want. This often happens to me when I use a real auto anything camera. And in some cases, I think everything is as expected, just to find out, when I see the shot on my computer screen, that the camera focused on a stupid thing that messed up its focus algorithm.

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