TTArtisan 28mm f5.6

[Photoworks]

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22 hours ago, Huss said:

While the flare is very bad in the first pic - just a veiling mess - to be fair to the TT lens the angle is not the same.  Nor is the distance from camera to subject - 28mm vs 21mm but filling the same frame.  But if the lighting IS the same in both, then the TT is bad w re. to flare.

Well saw the flare in the EVF and I went with it anyway , this picture was more to show the resolution and micro-contrast in compare the 21 SEM.

there was a light on the fridge, pointy LED just like a flash light, and no I don't carry that huge lens shade , this is not a modern lens look, so a little flare is fine occasionally .

the framing is different? we this is a real live situation, the TT lens mini focus is 1m, the 21 SEM is 0.7m. so I just framed to please my eyes.

you should just say how good the 21mm is at 3.4.. minimal distortion . 

All and all the TTartisan 28mm is an amazing small little lens and great for caring around. the Leica version has a little more vintage look and some flare too. for $300 this is a steal!

Alternatively the 28 Elmarit is probably the next stem on size an quality of optics. and if you want to best sharpness the 28 Summilux is the wow best.

[TomB_tx]

8 hours ago, pippy said:

Fortunately for me and my 'real world' shooting I very, very rarely seem to shoot in contre-jour situations - nothing deliberate; it just doesn't seem to be how I 'see' things - so personally the flare situation is almost completely academic and even in those occasional situations when I will shoot such subject matter it seems that my current scoring-record for capturing flare is 'null points'...

I agree, and my efforts to cause the flare were pretty extreme, which I've used because I've had some (used) lenses where the internal baffling was missing and I needed to cause the flare to find the cause. I do like the TTA 28, and while I'd like to use it without the hood, I'll keep the hood on it, and can usually avoid the flare. (I have to watch the lighting with my 50 Summicron and Summarit for the same reasons, if not so extreme.)

I tried adding a 37mm Hoya multicoated filter (along with the hood) and don't see much difference in flare on my sample. The flare is worst with light just outside the top right corner, so I wonder if there is a reflection in the M10 body cavity causing it.

[pippy]

40 minutes ago, Dennis said:

All my lenses and bodies are black. I also say NO to a used 28 Ultron II from a Leica fellow, because was silver.....As you correctly said, I don't use filter, except for challenging situations or when ND needed. But I do use hood, as long as don't block all my VF...

Well, just for you Dennis, here's a rattled-off snap of what the silver TTA looks like on a Black-Paint body with the supplied hood fitted but no filter;

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EDIT : Visually it reminds me of my 1930 Black Lacquer Leica 1 with its 50mm f3.5 Elmar......so I quite like the look!

Edited February 2, 2022 by pippy

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15 minutes ago, Photoworks said:

 

Alternatively the 28 Elmarit is probably the next stem on size an quality of optics. and if you want to best sharpness the 28 Summilux is the wow best.

Yes to the Elmarit, a lens I have considered one of Leica's best for a long time, but actually after the Elmarit I have found the 28mm Ultron II f2 is the "next best" 28mm..........Sure the 28mm Summilux is good, no question, but it's a lump on a M, as are other Summilux's with the possible exception of the earlier 35 ASPH 'lux's. VF blockage really annoys me whatever the lens, and with the high usable sensitivity of the M's now for me there's little reason for a Summilux........Yes I know all about the bokeh'ists here, but that's of no real interest. It's all about handling and balance and that's my main consideration with any lens I bolt on. Optically most new lenses, Leica or third party M mounts, are more than good enough for most images I see displayed here.

Back to the Ultron, it's a really good lens indeed. Sold my 28mm Summicron, ( too big especially with it's hood when M mounted ), and bought the 28 f2 VC Ultron II lens recently. The Ultron is for me a better lens all round..

[satijntje]

I received my TTartisan 28mm f5.6 a few days ago and I must say I love it.
Build is great and it is soo small, love this size!
I am not looking to the most critical situations to detect the most possible flare but shoot whatever and whenever I want to make a image.
So here just a few examples that were taken with an M11 
These images look however much better on a 27" screen!

 

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[Photoworks]

40 minutes ago, TomB_tx said:

The flare is worst with light just outside the top right corner, so I wonder if there is a reflection in the M10 body cavity causing it.

I was using the 28mm on the M11, if that helps

[Huss]

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Thank you Pippy for all your efforts!

[pippy]

41 minutes ago, Huss said:

Thank you Pippy for all your efforts!

Well I thank you in return, Huss, but in all honesty it was a real pleasure for me simply to be out snapping with the lens in the first place. I have to say I'm really glad to see that many members here have now received their copies and are actively posting some lovely images in the thread. After all; that's what it's all about.

Philip.

Edited February 2, 2022 by pippy

[Dennis]

2 hours ago, pippy said:

Well, just for you Dennis, here's a rattled-off snap of what the silver TTA looks like on a Black-Paint body with the supplied hood fitted but no filter;

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Philip.

EDIT : Visually it reminds me of my 1930 Black Lacquer Leica 1 with its 50mm f3.5 Elmar......so I quite like the look!

Thank you for sharing. Beautiful photo and scene. I know it is your daily bread. 
.
Aesthetically look fantastic, and with the hood, as you said it, better than expected. But it still doesn't appeal to me. Because I paint/tape almost everything, I would probably paint the silver between the glass and the hood  

[NigelG]

4 hours ago, pippy said:

Well, just for you Dennis, here's a rattled-off snap of what the silver TTA looks like on a Black-Paint body with the supplied hood fitted but no filter;

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

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Philip.

EDIT : Visually it reminds me of my 1930 Black Lacquer Leica 1 with its 50mm f3.5 Elmar......so I quite like the look!

Couple of things I noticed

Firstly like mine you’ve already lost a bit of paint from the edge of the hood (I’m thinking there’s going to be a market for a special TT touch-up pen for us “non-Steven-with-his-sandpapered-M10R BP” types.)

Secondly like mine also you have mounted the hood upside-down so the writing on it is hidden. I have found this makes the aperture ring hard to adjust with my left index fingertip as the cinch screw is in the way a bit but given I’ll probably only use it at f5.6 or f8 it’s not too bad. I had similar with the Voigtlander LH-2 square hood I used on my CV 28 f3.5 again mounted upside-down.

Lastly I’d forgotten that on the MD-262 the hotshoe and release were silver chrome…🙄. I don’t usually like the SLOB look but here I think it works really well given the large black hood. I just wish the flat mount/DOF ring was satin rather than the rather shiny finish.

Edited February 2, 2022 by NigelG
Corrected Autocorrect!

[NigelG]

Forgot to ask - which 37mm filters did you go with? B+W Pro seems to be thin on the ground here in 37mm but I could pick up a Hoya NXT Plus - no experience of them though. 
I usually only use a protector filter if I’m hiking/on the beach/snowy/rainy etc otherwise I’m happy with just a hood - but given there’s no option of a hood cap here I’m thinking hood+filter is maybe the way to go.
Still considering a step up ring to 39mm and to then use “regular” filters + the chrome Elmar hood 12549 but the multiple “flare” posts make me wonder if that will cause problems…🤔

[pippy]

2 hours ago, NigelG said:

...Firstly like mine you’ve already lost a bit of paint from the edge of the hood...

...Secondly like mine also you have mounted the hood upside-down so the writing on it is hidden. I have found this makes the aperture ring hard to adjust with my left index fingertip as the cinch screw is in the way a bit but given I’ll probably only use it at f5.6 or f8 it’s not too bad...

...Lastly I’d forgotten that on the MD-262 the hotshoe and release were silver chrome…🙄. I don’t usually like the SLOB look but here I think it works really well given the large black hood. I just wish the flat mount/DOF ring was satin rather than the rather shiny finish...

You make a few good observations, Nigel, and I'll let you know my thinking behind my choices on these matters.

I don't really care about whether the hood chips; I knew it was going to happen so, truly, no biggie. I'm more interested in keeping the matt-black of the inner part of the hood in good nick. Oddly enough although the future state of TTA hood isn't on my mind at all the Black-Paint IROOA hood which came with my LLL '8 Element' re-working is something which I would like to keep in good cosmetic condition. In fact if I know that shooting with the LLL is going to be a bit of a 'careless' day I've actually dug out a 12585 to use instead. I don't understand - nor particularly like - my reasoning behind this decision but there it is. A bit weird if you ask me...

Is the hood upside-down? Says who???............For one thing I dislike so much 'lettering' in a prominent place(*) on any of my kit but I put it on this way mainly because it gets the clip-screw well away from my fingertips for when I'm focussing the lens. This has the added advantage of making it much harder for me to knock the hood off the lens with my clumsy digits. In practice I always set the aperture first before putting the camera to me eye (or leave it as-set previously) and adjust the shutter-speed accordingly for exposure control so for my 'habits' this isn't anything I need worry about. And yes; f8 / f11 will almost certainly be my main stomping-ground with this lens.

The chrome-finish of the shutter-release is (for me) a non-issue but I do wish that Leica had black-anodised the hot-shoe rails; this annoys me no end!...Probably just force-of-habit? Prior to my acquiring the M-D I had an M8.2 and and M9-P; both of which had black rails so the silver has a jarring effect on my visual sensitivities!............I, too, am not usually a big fan of chrome-on-black but, as I mentioned, here - probably because the lens is so short and small - it reminds me strongly of Leica's Black-Paint with Nickel / Chrome pairings of the 1920s and early '30s so a bit of a 'Vintage Visuals' thing going on?

1 hour ago, NigelG said:

Forgot to ask - which 37mm filters did you go with?...I usually only use a protector filter if I’m hiking/on the beach/snowy/rainy etc otherwise I’m happy with just a hood - but given there’s no option of a hood cap here I’m thinking hood+filter is maybe the way to go.
Still considering a step up ring to 39mm and to then use “regular” filters + the chrome Elmar hood 12549 but the multiple “flare” posts make me wonder if that will cause problems…🤔

As I was in a great hurry (mentioned elsewhere) to buy something to protect the front element (a feeling which can probably be traced back to the usual weather in my native Scotland) I had a look on-line and managed to find the two filters I most wished to buy and which could be collected in-store from a branch of Jessops in central London later that very morning. They are both their own branded filters but, from what Ive seen so far, the optical quality seems to leave nothing to be desired. The rings are both small and narrow - which make them the perfect match for the lens - and the multi-coatings seem to work very well...as has been discussed in a roundabout manner in this thread! The Pola is very nicely made and works absolutely perfectly but there is one small niggle I could level at it which is that there is no easily-seen index mark to show filter-orientation. Simple to remedy, of course, by making a notch on the front ring showing 'full strength' position but, still, a curious oversight. Then again; I suppose as 99.9999999% of buyers will not be using a rangefinder camera with an OVF and will, therefore, be able to see exactly the effect the filter has when it's in use....

When I was shooting with the set-up on Monday I used the printed-on edge-markings - which ARE aligned as might be expected - but due to the nature of the deep and narrow hood inner-base it makes these markings rather difficult to see clearly.

I did, originally, contemplate using such a 37mm-39mm set-up as you mention for filter use (and as Matt Osborne, in fact, used in his review of the lens) with a circular, vented reverse-conical hood but, having given the matter a little bit of thought, decided that the size and shape of the TTA hood will, in all likelihood, be tailor-made to shade the lens as near to the limits as is possible before causing cut-off and so to stick with the supplied hood would be the most sensible option - and especially so if the possibility of flare encroaching into the shot is as likely as it promised to be from all accounts which I'd read.

That being said; I have bought just such a vented (etc.) hood and it should be ready for collection on Friday. I'll try to post an update if it works...

Philip.

* 'Leica (etc.)' top-plate script apart!.......

Edited February 2, 2022 by pippy

[pippy]

3 hours ago, Dennis said:

...Aesthetically look fantastic, and with the hood, as you said it, better than expected. But it still doesn't appeal to me. Because I paint/tape almost everything, I would probably paint the silver between the glass and the hood  

You could always do what I did, Dennis, and buy a circular polarising filter instead!...

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Philip.

 

[Dennis]

3 hours ago, pippy said:

You could always do what I did, Dennis, and buy a circular polarising filter instead!...

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Philip.

 

haha, that's a perfect answer! It totally makes sense.

 

[Huss]

On 11/20/2021 at 12:11 PM, davorb said:

Am I the only one intrigued by this lens? I’ve never owned a Chinese lens before, so it might be fun to try it.

If you have a smart phone, you have a camera with a Chinese lens!

[Gobert]

20 hours ago, Huss said:

If you have a smart phone, you have a camera with a Chinese lens!

That’s why I painted it black. They might spy on me.

[mkur]

PKP class TKt48  M10 Monochrome

 

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[mkur]

Iława, Poland

 

 

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[agfa100]

Well mine just showed up yesterday, so I will head out and try a few shots and see how I like it. The build quality is really nice no complaints their and I am one of those that like how chrome lenses look on black bodies. The only other chrome lenses I have are a 35 Summicron Ver 1 and a 50mm Summilux Ver 2 that I picked up way back when I started with Leica M cameras in 1971 showing my age. For digital I am using a Sigma fp easier for me to focus with the LVF which is a bit of a pain to carry, but once you put it to your eye it's so nice.

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[IanH]

Hi,  is there any similarity to the Summaron 28 when this lens is used on film? I’d buy this lens for my m2, but the Summaron image output look unique. The reviews normally mention the modern rendering of the TT on leica digital, but film can sometimes show a different side to the lens.