TTArtisan 50mm 0.95 review

[Cayenne]

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On 11/14/2020 at 4:19 PM, Raymondl said:

I am getting confused by this. 
 

CA - chromatic aberrations also appears on the Leica 50mm 0.95 noc (source -  https://jerrybei.com/reviews/tag/Noctilux)

it also appears on the 50mm summilux APSH (source - https://www.imaging-resource.com/lenses/leica/50mm-f1.4-summilux-m-asph./review/ noting that its minor)

if you want to avoid all forms of chromatic aberrations my suggestion is to use the LEICA 50mm APO  (source - https://www.leicaboutique-ce.com.au/leica-aposummicronm-50mm-f2-asph-lens)

Just for context. IMHO CA is a pain but it’s easily removed in digital, yes there is a drop in resolution but it’s something I can personally live with. 

But just thinking more.

You cannot remove CA from an pure greyscale image, right? With no color, the development software wouldn't know what to "fix"...is this correct?

C

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[Raymondl]

27 minutes ago, Cayenne said:

But just thinking more.

You cannot remove CA from an pure greyscale image, right? With no color, the development software wouldn't know what to "fix"...is this correct?

C

Depending on the CA for a greyscale image and the scene. But generally you might need to use photoshop to remove this - example: https://community.adobe.com/t5/photoshop/how-to-remove-black-aberation-fringe-in-a-black-white-photograph/td-p/8954653?page=1

might be better to ask the monochrome section in this forum for tips and tricks. 

[BrianS]

On 11/13/2020 at 5:24 PM, Cayenne said:

What are your thoughts on shooting this lens purely on a monochrom?

Would the chromatic aberrations be less of a problem since it is purely B&W or would that just result in softer/fuzzier images?

TIA,

cayenne

Chromatic Aberration will produce a soft image in a monochrome image, digital or film. Color images- you can post-process to reduce the effects of CA by scaling RGB image planes.

Use a deep yellow or orange filter to eliminate most CA, longitudinal and lateral. This is with a 1934 Carl Zeiss Jena 5cm F2 Sonnar, wide-open on the M Monochrom. I had to go back and check which lens was used for this image- then realized why it was so much sharper, I had left the orange filter on it. I keep a deep yellow filter on the 7Artisans 50/1.1 when using it on the M Monochrom. Much sharper images than what others seem to get. I have no complaints on the two that I have.

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Edited November 17, 2020 by BrianS

[jakontil]

Thanks flavio, very thorough reviews and unbiased

cant you do anything with the close focus shifts even they provide the screw?

 

[Harpomatic]

On 11/15/2020 at 6:02 PM, Raymondl said:

In my experience it’s always the inverse here. The CA is more prominent with you shoot wide open and usually reduces as you stop down to F8/11... and this what I have been taught anyhow reading online photography aids.

BUT I started looking for lens reviews where they measure CA, and I found a “vintage” lens, where interestingly it shows the centre reduces CA as you stop down (expected), however the  outer edges sees an increase in CA!

Example: https://www.ephotozine.com/article/yashica-auto-yashinon-5-5cm-f-1-8-vintage-lens-review-34311/performance

would be interesting to see the behaviour as you stop down for this lens. 

Ok, I stand corrected - I meant that the LaCA is a lot less disturbing in many of the wide open frames. This might be because the spherical aberration is masking it, the purple fringing is a lot stronger at wider apertures, I don’t know. But if you have a look at the series of shots with the tree branches for example the LaCA appears only 2-3 stops down from wide open, it’s masked before that.

The lens is rendering in an interesting way wide open, it falls apart stopping down in my opinion. And at closer that 1.5-2m focus distance. And with focus distances above 2 meters. And it backfocuses up to 2cm at MFD. And...I don’t think it’s a good lens at all. It is nice focusing in a 50cm range only for me. I might be nitpicky...

[Harpomatic]

11 hours ago, jakontil said:

Thanks flavio, very thorough reviews and unbiased

cant you do anything with the close focus shifts even they provide the screw?

 

Thank you!

I have written a short article about the focus calibration and how that drove me mad because of that MFD issue. I short: nope.

https://www.47-degree.com/focus-shift/calibrating-focus-on-the-ttartisan-50mm-095

 

 

[BrianS]

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4 hours ago, Harpomatic said:

Thank you!

I have written a short article about the focus calibration and how that drove me mad because of that MFD issue. I short: nope.

https://www.47-degree.com/focus-shift/calibrating-focus-on-the-ttartisan-50mm-095

 

 

I read your article- I suspect the focal length is too far off to focus properly across the full range. Adjusting the RF Cam is the same as shimming the lens, moves the entire optical block. This only works if the focal length of the lens agrees with the Cam of the lens used to link with the cameras rangefinder. Most classic normal lenses, the movement is 1:1 with the RF. The lens must be very close to the 51.6mm standard. If not- time to move elements around within the lens to make the effective focal length agree with the camera.

 

I'm sticking with my 50/1.1 7Artisans lenses. I have them perfectly adjusted, one for the M9 and the second with a deep yellow filter for the M Monochrom.

[Harpomatic]

48 minutes ago, BrianS said:

I read your article- I suspect the focal length is too far off to focus properly across the full range. Adjusting the RF Cam is the same as shimming the lens, moves the entire optical block. This only works if the focal length of the lens agrees with the Cam of the lens used to link with the cameras rangefinder. Most classic normal lenses, the movement is 1:1 with the RF. The lens must be very close to the 51.6mm standard. If not- time to move elements around within the lens to make the effective focal length agree with the camera.

Brian, it’s so interesting to read your contributions. I always learn something useful. Thanks!

[Cayenne]

On 11/16/2020 at 6:25 PM, BrianS said:

Chromatic Aberration will produce a soft image in a monochrome image, digital or film. Color images- you can post-process to reduce the effects of CA by scaling RGB image planes.

Use a deep yellow or orange filter to eliminate most CA, longitudinal and lateral. This is with a 1934 Carl Zeiss Jena 5cm F2 Sonnar, wide-open on the M Monochrom. I had to go back and check which lens was used for this image- then realized why it was so much sharper, I had left the orange filter on it. I keep a deep yellow filter on the 7Artisans 50/1.1 when using it on the M Monochrom. Much sharper images than what others seem to get. I have no complaints on the two that I have.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

OH thank you for the suggestion of the yellow/orange filters.

 

I do already keep a yellow one on my current lens (the Ultron 35mm)....it isn't very dark, but I do have a much darker orange one...both are B&W....

If I get this lens, I might keep that orange one on it.

Hmm....I'll see if there's one of these lenses out there to rent first to experiment with the filters.  

 

Thank you again...this is ALL very interesting to read here, I learn so much each day!!

cayenne

[jakontil]

On 11/17/2020 at 11:10 PM, Harpomatic said:

Thank you!

I have written a short article about the focus calibration and how that drove me mad because of that MFD issue. I short: nope.

https://www.47-degree.com/focus-shift/calibrating-focus-on-the-ttartisan-50mm-095

 

 

Thanks flavio, i read throught it, and yeah it makes sense why it shifted... i guess you saved me from getting this lens...

 

suffering from a focus shifts is something i cant live with from a lens

[Harpomatic]

22 hours ago, jakontil said:

Thanks flavio, i read throught it, and yeah it makes sense why it shifted... i guess you saved me from getting this lens...

I will be honest, I was really looking forward to this lens and it really reiterated why I love small and high quality lenses. And more versatile! The TTArtisan is not versatile at all. The CV Nokton 50mm 1.2 is so much more value for money.

[cboy]

Op im trying to think what possible practical use could 0.95 be? Apart from artistic or studio/tripod setups...whats the distance is depth of field?

[Harpomatic]

7 hours ago, cboy said:

Op im trying to think what possible practical use could 0.95 be? Apart from artistic or studio/tripod setups...whats the distance is depth of field?

Practical? None at all. Razor thin depth of field and you mince everything else into oblivion outside of the focus plane. I don’t think there is a real “need” for that speed, outside of obsessing about bokeh. Unless you shoot film/M8/M9 in pitch dark conditions and need the speed to expose the film/sensor.

But this is a personal opinion.

[jdlaing]

4 hours ago, Harpomatic said:

 

But this is a personal opinion.

Yes. It is.

[cboy]

Anyhow thankyou Harpomatic for your review thats gives us great insights on the nature of this lens which you kindly shared to all in this forum. Much appreciated!

[Harpomatic]

On 11/24/2020 at 8:21 PM, cboy said:

Anyhow thankyou Harpomatic for your review thats gives us great insights on the nature of this lens which you kindly shared to all in this forum. Much appreciated!

Thank you for your kind words. It gives me pleasure to know that my review can be helpful!

[ZHNL]

I bought the lens. It is an awesome piece. I can’t believe it can be sold at this price with such a wonderful performance at .95. I think it has slightly softer bokeh than Leica one actually. 

It was slightly back focus out of box. I adjusted it following instruction also YouTube instruction, it works at close distance after adjust, I haven’t test infinity yet. 

I didn’t test focus shift, I will mostly use it wide open between 0.7m and 3m. For stopdown shooting I have lux and APOcron. At around 3M, it is a challenge for perfect rangefinder focus anyway with lens this fast. 50noct, 75lux, 90APO,  even 50lux, you name it.
 

for lens like this using rangefinder, You need adjust your shooting habit. For fast glass rangefinder shooting, always focus from one direction, and trip the shutter as soon as patch meet or over-meet depend on your camera, lens and eye condition. 
 

I much prefer use it on SL2 or any MILC camera though. Just want neutralize the negative review  and offer different opinion here. 

[epand56]

Thank you for your very detailed review, Flavio. I was in the mood of buying this lens and you convinced me: I will, stick to my Summilux 50/1.4 Asph. However, would be interesting a twin review, made by you, of the Leica Noctilux 50/0.95. Just to see what's the added value of those 13 times more one should pay for it. Maybe somebody at Leica will lend you a sample for a coupe weeks 😉

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[gmbmuc]

Am 26.11.2020 um 02:49 schrieb ZHNL:

I bought the lens. It is an awesome piece. I can’t believe it can be sold at this price with such a wonderful performance at .95. I think it has slightly softer bokeh than Leica one actually. 

It was slightly back focus out of box. I adjusted it following instruction also YouTube instruction, it works at close distance after adjust, I haven’t test infinity yet. 

I didn’t test focus shift, I will mostly use it wide open between 0.7m and 3m. For stopdown shooting I have lux and APOcron. At around 3M, it is a challenge for perfect rangefinder focus anyway with lens this fast. 50noct, 75lux, 90APO,  even 50lux, you name it.
 

for lens like this using rangefinder, You need adjust your shooting habit. For fast glass rangefinder shooting, always focus from one direction, and trip the shutter as soon as patch meet or over-meet depend on your camera, lens and eye condition. 
 

I much prefer use it on SL2 or any MILC camera though. Just want neutralize the negative review  and offer different opinion here. 

+1

 

[Harpomatic]

8 hours ago, epand56 said:

Thank you for your very detailed review, Flavio. I was in the mood of buying this lens and you convinced me: I will, stick to my Summilux 50/1.4 Asph. However, would be interesting a twin review, made by you, of the Leica Noctilux 50/0.95. Just to see what's the added value of those 13 times more one should pay for it. Maybe somebody at Leica will lend you a sample for a coupe weeks 😉

Thank you, I have expressed my most honest and as unbiased opinions as possible. I really wanted to like the lens.

I agreed that the comparison would be most interesting, but I have sold the lens and am concentrating on a new big review with other lenses. 
But I have to agree that staying with your Lux Asph is a great choice!