pgk Posted January 17, 2018 Share #21 Posted January 17, 2018 Advertisement (gone after registration) Macro lenses can be great for portraits, but too often the complaint I would get is that they are too sharp and too unflattering. Both the Canon and Sony macro lenses also had a rather clinical look. Hmmmmm. I have the Canon 100mm usm macro. I also have the 75mm Summicon and I've used the 75mm Summarit. I would say that the Summicron is more precise than the Canon, the Summarit its equal. I haven't tried the others on your list but I would be surprised if they were not similar (the 90 apo is probably similar to the 75 Summicron and I'd be surprised if the others weren't very similar to the 75mm Summarit. So my take is that all the ('modern') lenses on your list will be similar or more precise than the Canon macro. Which leaves you in the situation of having to look at the used market for a different rendering. Of the lenses available the 75mm Summilux would be my suggestion. Buy one, get it serviced/coded/checked by Leica and you will have an exceptionally good portrait lens with a full year's warranty. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 17, 2018 Posted January 17, 2018 Hi pgk, Take a look here Best M portrait lens?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
JCR33 Posted January 18, 2018 Share #22 Posted January 18, 2018 This one? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistairm Posted January 18, 2018 Share #23 Posted January 18, 2018 Keith Hope you're well mate. I absolutely love the rendering of the 75 Summicron for portraits. It's great on the M10 and also the SL. In fact, it's just one of my favourite all round lenses. I reckon you'd be very happy with it. Alistair Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geetee1972 Posted January 18, 2018 Share #24 Posted January 18, 2018 As others have said, the more relevant factor for choosing a lens for portraiture is focal length and by far the more important variable on the actual results, is lighting. Any lens will look bitingly sharp if you pour lots of light directly onto the subject's face (Thorsten Overgard did a very good video where he demonstrated just how sharp a relatively cheap, low pixel count image can be if you get the lighting just so). Pick a focal length and then buy the best lens in that lenght that you can afford. My personal choice is 50mm and I use the M Summilux for 100% of my portraiture. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith_W Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share #25 Posted January 18, 2018 Thank you all for your replies. If anything, I am more confused than ever. I can't reply to every individual post but I am grateful to you all. Let's see what I learnt: Summicron-M 75/2 (alistairm) or Summilux-M 75/1.4. (DickieT, PaulJ, lct, tsleica, pgk). Good point about repositioning to get rid of the flare. I am resistant to the idea of secondhand lenses because I don't feel like waiting for one to turn up in local 2ndhand markets (not that patient) nor do I trust fleabay that much. I have never bought anything this expensive from a non bricks and mortar seller before. A quick search of fleabay shows quite a few 75 Lux, some from bricks and mortar shops so I suppose it should be OK. Summicron-M 90/2 pre-ASPH (wizard, Ecar, lct, phongph, ldhrads) or ASPH (albertknappmd). I like the idea of a longer focal length than the 75mm so that I can get a look that is quite different to the 50mm lens I already own. I have a question though - why choose a pre-ASPH over the ASPH? Any 50mm lens (Ko.Fe, geetee1972). I already have a 50mm lens (the current 50 Lux). I use it for portraits, but sometimes I want some perspective compression. I notice that nobody recommended the 90/4 macro! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgk Posted January 18, 2018 Share #26 Posted January 18, 2018 I am resistant to the idea of secondhand lenses because I don't feel like waiting for one to turn up in local 2ndhand markets (not that patient) nor do I trust fleabay that much. I have never bought anything this expensive from a non bricks and mortar seller before. A quick search of fleabay shows quite a few 75 Lux, some from bricks and mortar shops so I suppose it should be OK. Buying from a reputable dealer will ensure a good copy plus will have a usable warranty. There are good dealers like Red Dot (London - forum sponsor I believe) or Schouten Select (Netherlands) who have the Summilux in stock but you will pay a premium for a lens from such a dealer because they check and warrant their used equipment (I have bought from both). With an expensive used purchase I would only buy from a well-known and respected dealer, but I would do so with a good deal of confidence. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geetee1972 Posted January 18, 2018 Share #27 Posted January 18, 2018 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have a question though - why choose a pre-ASPH over the ASPH I don't know this for certain, but I believe it is because the introduction of ASPH elements leads to a more highly corrected but overly sterile look. The best analogy I can give to illustrate this is the difference between 'film stock' and 'video tape'. I use it for portraits, but sometimes I want some perspective compression You mean for head/head & shoulders portraits I guess? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DickieT Posted January 18, 2018 Share #28 Posted January 18, 2018 If you are considering a 75 Lux, I would recommend the 1st version with 12539 hood à la Noctilux and E60 filter size (not E58 - so contrary to what many reviews say). I believe the min focus distance 0,7m for all 3 versions - it certainly is for the v1. It is a bulky lens and so anything you can save on weight or bulkiness (v2 and v3 are a little wider to create room for the sliding hood) is good. You can buy with confidence from Schouten (but he has no v1 currently) or Leicashop in Vienna for sure. Buy one boxed with papers from a collection (like I did) and you will never look back! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Q Posted January 18, 2018 Share #29 Posted January 18, 2018 For portraits I like to use my 90 Elmarit and my newly acquired Noctilux 50/0.95 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted January 18, 2018 Share #30 Posted January 18, 2018 If you are considering a 75 Lux, I would recommend the 1st version with 12539 hood à la Noctilux and E60 filter size (not E58 - so contrary to what many reviews say). I believe the min focus distance 0,7m for all 3 versions - it certainly is for the v1 [...] • v1 (above): 0.9m or a bit closer. Specs say 1m. • v3 (below): 0.8m or a bit closer. Specs say 0.75m. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/280943-best-m-portrait-lens/?do=findComment&comment=3442897'>More sharing options...
pgk Posted January 18, 2018 Share #31 Posted January 18, 2018 I don't know this for certain, but I believe it is because the introduction of ASPH elements leads to a more highly corrected but overly sterile look. Its quite subtle, but ..... In essence the aspheric element lenses are optically better corrected and so undoubtedly deliver better results wide open. Fine edge detail throughout their aperture range is very well defined and this gives images a very 'precise' feel, which some find somewhat 'sterile'. Older lenses can suffer from aberrations which can very marginally soften the fine edge detail and this can give the images a very slightly smoother feel which isn't quite so precise. It is very subtle though. If you are shooting portraits and use lighting which will enhance this subtlety on an appropriate subject, then an older lens may be preferable, but I do stress that its marginal and such nuances shown most when they are exaggerated by lighting and subject. The problem with such things is that they are subtle and strengths and weaknesses can be played to and be work to advantage, but they are rarely distinctly obvious and descriptions such as 'sterile' are IMO rather excessive. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted January 18, 2018 Share #32 Posted January 18, 2018 If your portraits are to includeof ladies 'of a certain age' then do not use an APO/asph lens because the subjects will feel that the pictures are unflattering and disppointing since every hair, wrinkle, line, pock mark, freckle, nick, scar, and make-up mistake with be harshly revealed. I know this from personal experience. Pete. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted January 19, 2018 Share #33 Posted January 19, 2018 If your portraits are to includeof ladies 'of a certain age' then do not use an APO/asph lens because the subjects will feel that the pictures are unflattering and disppointing since every hair, wrinkle, line, pock mark, freckle, nick, scar, and make-up mistake with be harshly revealed. I know this from personal experience. Pete. Because you wear makeup? Gimme the best APO's any day. None of them are too sharp for portraits. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted January 19, 2018 Share #34 Posted January 19, 2018 Gimme the best APO's any day. None of them are too sharp for portraits. Try to explain that my mother in law... Asph and Apo streng verboten 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sls Posted January 19, 2018 Share #35 Posted January 19, 2018 (edited) I have a 90/f2.8 Tele-Elmarit, the thin Canada version. It's pretty sharp and dreamy at the same time. It's silly small for 90mm and my son and I fight over who uses it. Got mine off eBay for £300 (one owner from new from mid 1970s) and sent to Germany for a clean and recalibration. It just consistently produces great images, on M9, M10 and A7R. Edited January 19, 2018 by sls 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david strachan Posted January 19, 2018 Share #36 Posted January 19, 2018 We all need a weight-reducing-cover-baldness-lovely-skin lens. Now come on Leica, stop being lazy, and i want it now! ... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgk Posted January 19, 2018 Share #37 Posted January 19, 2018 Portraiture has a broad spectrum of usable lenses. From APO to Thambar. Chalk and cheese. I just picked up a 'fat' Tele-Elmarit which has obviously seen use (quite a lot probably). So far only one photograph on it - a wide-open, off-the-cuff portrait - which unusually, even the subject (a photographer) liked. No its not as sharp as it would have been on a current lens, but I caught him looking like he's enjoying himself, and its not the world's best portrait but its fun. For a cheap lens from 1969 I have no complaints with it and it was cheap enough to sit in my rucksack with no worries. I will have a great time exploring this lenses' possibilities without worrying that optically its not the ultimate lens. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
duoenboge Posted January 19, 2018 Share #38 Posted January 19, 2018 try the Zeiss C Sonnar 1.5/50. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted January 19, 2018 Share #39 Posted January 19, 2018 ... I have a question though - why choose a pre-ASPH over the ASPH? ... Well, I tried to explain it before. The pre-ASPH lens has two personalities, more forgiving at full aperture (because it is not brutally sharp at full aperture, due to some residual optical aberrations), and very sharp and contrasty from f2.8 - 4 onwards. You don't get those two personalities with the ASPH, as it is perfectly sharp even at full aperture. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted January 19, 2018 Share #40 Posted January 19, 2018 Because you wear makeup? Gimme the best APO's any day. None of them are too sharp for portraits. Is that you, Gladys? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now