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New Firmware 3.0


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I tried some images with fully electronic shutter (FES). Works perfect for me. (daylight, no moving targets) But how can I see afterwards if a picture was taken with FES or with the normal shutter ?   I could not find any sign for it - neither in the EVF or back display, nor in the top display.

Any idea how to find out ? While shooting or later with the final image.

Of course when I press the shutter and I see no visible/audible reaction of the camera that is an indicator for it ....

 

First we thought that S mode could be a mode only for FES. We know now that this is not the case. But in my eyes it would have been desirable to have a mode or similar to see if FES is turned on. And also to quickly switch to it.

I wonder how it is implemented in the A9 (special mode, or a sign indicating FES mode or whatever) ?

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I tried some images with fully electronic shutter (FES). Works perfect for me. (daylight, no moving targets) But how can I see afterwards if a picture was taken with FES or with the normal shutter ?   I could not find any sign for it - neither in the EVF or back display, nor in the top display.

Any idea how to find out ? While shooting or later with the final image.

Of course when I press the shutter and I see no visible/audible reaction of the camera that is an indicator for it ....

 

First we thought that S mode could be a mode only for FES. We know now that this is not the case. But in my eyes it would have been desirable to have a mode or similar to see if FES is turned on. And also to quickly switch to it.

I wonder how it is implemented in the A9 (special mode, or a sign indicating FES mode or whatever) ?

Have you had a long look at the EXIF data?

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I don't know if has been said but take care if you have disabled the auto lens detection because in all cases you have set the variable speed, like 1/f or 1/4f, etc. no Auto ISO Works.

 

Francisco

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I tried some images with fully electronic shutter (FES). Works perfect for me. (daylight, no moving targets) But how can I see afterwards if a picture was taken with FES or with the normal shutter ?   I could not find any sign for it - neither in the EVF or back display, nor in the top display.

Any idea how to find out ? While shooting or later with the final image.

Of course when I press the shutter and I see no visible/audible reaction of the camera that is an indicator for it ....

 

First we thought that S mode could be a mode only for FES. We know now that this is not the case. But in my eyes it would have been desirable to have a mode or similar to see if FES is turned on. And also to quickly switch to it.

I wonder how it is implemented in the A9 (special mode, or a sign indicating FES mode or whatever) ?

 

 

If you are looking through the viewfinder you will detect a quick gap in the illumination of the image.

 

Francisco

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That sounds good! But I'll have to ask again just to be sure - excuse my ignorance - I am really no expert by any means when we speak about

HSS, PW and speedlights...

A bit background info:

Previously I had Nikon Df with SB800 speedflash I could use HSS function with a cheap Yongnuo wireless trigger ( NIkon version ). It was working just fine.

When I bought SL I soon learned it was not that easy. There is a whole topic here about that and pretty much everybody said - no, it's not possible to have HSS off-camera with

Leica SL...only using a specific Nikon cord with Leica SF 40 or 64 ( maybe also 58 )

 

And now you are telling me - it is possible after all? I just need to use PW III? Not even need to buy insanely expensive Leica ( Nissin ) speedlights?

You saying I would be able to use my Nikon SB800 with SL in HSS mode?

Do I get it right?

And this PW III - does it come in different versions - to different camera models or...?

 

Yes, I am a bit confused... :o

 

Pls. enlight me. Thank  you!

 

 

 

I had the chance to test these PocketWizards before I buy them and I wanted to test them just to see if it would work.

That was my test shot. My sleeping cat indoor. To get 1/6000 sec I had to bring up the ISO to 18.000 ... haha

 

it still worked

 

SL ⎢Summilux SL 50 ⎢ ISO 50 ⎢ F/1.4 ⎢ 1/6000 sec ⎢PW Plus III on the camera ⎢ PW Plus III in HSR Mode connected with a sync cable to the speedlight

enlight me too.... are you sure you have tested this? nikon mount? please help us som detailed information please because i don't want to make the same mistake again. 

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enlight me too.... are you sure you have tested this? nikon mount? please help us som detailed information please because i don't want to make the same mistake again. 

 

 

what exactly do you mean when you write "are you sure you have tested this?"

 

There is no special "mount". As I wrote there is only the center pin and that means that there is no TTL or whatever possible. Just the trigger signal - that's all.

It is not necessary to believe me - let the dealer of your choice know what you want and he/she can order two of them from Hensel so you can test it. No risk. And if it is too risky in your opinion: don't worry - just use the original Leica flashes with no possibilty to use it off camera with HSS.

 

I'm not sure if you really read Post #178

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I had the chance to test these PocketWizards before I buy them and I wanted to test them just to see if it would work.

That was my test shot. My sleeping cat indoor. To get 1/6000 sec I had to bring up the ISO to 18.000 ... haha

 

it still worked

 

SL ⎢Summilux SL 50 ⎢ ISO 50 ⎢ F/1.4 ⎢ 1/6000 sec ⎢PW Plus III on the camera ⎢ PW Plus III in HSR Mode connected with a sync cable to the speedlight

Are you saying that with flash it was shot @ ISO 50, and without flash, you would need to shoot @ ISO 18,000?

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...... when you use two of these triggers (one as a receiver, connected with the flash  (sync cable)) and you use it in Channel 17 (This is very important!!), you can use flash in HSS mode.

 

Is it also important to use a sync cable, and it will not work if the flash is connected directly to the receiver? Any specific (Nikon) sync cable? 

It does seem like a good work around to get HSS with SL. Thanks for sharing.

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Are you saying that with flash it was shot @ ISO 50, and without flash, you would need to shoot @ ISO 18,000?

 

no... that was indoor and it was a bit dark.

I wanted to see if I can come close to 1/8000. To reach that time I had to go up to ISO 18.000. That is nonsense in "real life" - nobody would make such a shot with 1/6000. But this is a test shot and I wanted to know if the constellation would work proper or not. 

There are no black areas in the picture at 1/6000 as you can see. Ignore the motif and ignore the ISO. Both is not important ;)

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Is it also important to use a sync cable, and it will not work if the flash is connected directly to the receiver? Any specific (Nikon) sync cable? 

It does seem like a good work around to get HSS with SL. Thanks for sharing.

There is a short sync cable coming with the transceiver.

How do you want to connect the flash to the receiver without using the sync cable?

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There is a short sync cable coming with the transceiver.

How do you want to connect the flash to the receiver without using the sync cable?

 

Few remote triggers allow the flash to be mounted on the receiver directly. 

 

From the description (http://www.pocketwizard.com/products/transmitter_receiver/plus%20iii/), it seems flash sync speed is 1/250s for focal plane shutter. 

 

Seems the setup you mentioned is a "trick/hack", and not necessarily a feature of the trigger.

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I think this is the first time I've ever needed to update the firmware of a lens.  I guess that's just the age we live in: cars, TVs, even home appliances are now perpetually works in progress.

  

 

And that is a good thing. Sigma was the first that comes out with the dock to update their lens firmware. Constant improvement.

 

Olympus and Panasonic have been doing this with FourThirds and Micro-FourThirds lenses since 2003.

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Few remote triggers allow the flash to be mounted on the receiver directly. 

 

From the description (http://www.pocketwizard.com/products/transmitter_receiver/plus%20iii/), it seems flash sync speed is 1/250s for focal plane shutter. 

 

Seems the setup you mentioned is a "trick/hack", and not necessarily a feature of the trigger.

 

Yes I know that there are remote triggers (like the cactus V6II) allowing the flash to be mounted on the receiver but I posted a picture in #186 and there you can see that the form of the transceiver doesn't allow the flash to be mounted directly.

I posted the youtube-Video in #170 where the guy shows the HSS workaround with the Pocketwizard. I never said that the possibility is a feature but it works exactly the way he described it. Don't see the problem here. I gave you all just the hint. Do what is the best for you.

It works and it works with all kind of speedlights and it also works with studio strobes. It allows you to be creative without using ND-filters. Test it and use it if you like it or ignore it if you don't like it. It's that simple, isn't it?

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I went on to download the FW3.0 with great anticipation on 1 June 2017 evening after arriving home ( I received news about new firmware while away on business trip away in Bangkok on 31st May).

I only had the chance to try out the new firmware + my 90-280 VE (also with new firmware downloaded) today on trying to capture birds in flight with AFc + Dynamic Tracking in the same location which SL failed to lock focus before FW 3.0. Brovo! The AF finally was able to lock focus in motion against low contrust sky as background and successfully capturing shots with camera AF. Also tried changing betweening 'single point', 'field', & 'zone' which improves the success of sharp images on differing background & motion.

Finally, I am convinced that Leica SL 601 is a worthy camera body to match the impacable 90-280mm. Thank you Leica for the FW3.0 that improved AFc making it a convincible sports camera. It may not have the best AF comparing to 1DX but I would not trade for Canon AF against Leica 90-280 glass quality. Besides no available AF system is perfect, only one system better than another in different challenges.

 

Thank you Leica!

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Canon AF or Nikon AF far outweighs 90-280 glass quality for birds in flight. The quality of the lens doesn't make up for out of focus shots.

 

The Canon and Nikon glass is very high quality for telephotos one might use for such photography. 200 f2, 300 f2.8, etc.

 

I don't think the current SL will ever be a birds in flight or sports camera. If they revise with on sensor PDAF I could see it.

Edited by LD_50
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Exposure preview in M does not work correctly - at least in AUTO-ISO not.

the exposure is only shown correct within the limits of the AUTO-ISO settings. Once you hit the limit, the preview is not correct anymore, as long as you change the exposure time. If you close [or open] the aperture: the preview is shown correct again...

 

crazy.

Or is it a feature?

Edited by deep_blue
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Exposure preview in M does not work correctly - at least in AUTO-ISO not.

the exposure is only shown correct within the limits of the AUTO-ISO settings. Once you hit the limit, the preview is not correct anymore, as long as you change the exposure time. If you close [or open] the aperture: the preview is shown correct again...

 

crazy.

Or is it a feature?

It's a limitation. I don't think it's a bug. I.e. it behaves as it is intended to even if that behaviour is not helpful in all circumstances.

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Canon AF or Nikon AF far outweighs 90-280 glass quality for birds in flight. The quality of the lens doesn't make up for out of focus shots.

 

The Canon and Nikon glass is very high quality for telephotos one might use for such photography. 200 f2, 300 f2.8, etc.

 

I don't think the current SL will ever be a birds in flight or sports camera. If they revise with on sensor PDAF I could see it.

 

Does the Canon / Nikon telephotos outperform the 90-280 VE in quality as compared to the 3 shots below?

The following 3 pics were among the 17 continuous ahorts taken on the fishing motion with no croping and very minimun WB alteration in LR:

31614314912_6a557eb8c6_k.jpgL1020779 by sillbeers15

31723873166_2ec16c3243_k.jpgL1020782 by sillbeers15

31723866836_28d240d3bf_k.jpgL1020797 by sillbeers15

 

I appologize that I had not own or used a single Nikon camera in my life. My last Canon was the Canon A1, back while I was just a school boy. I remember firing it with motor drive on 'high', the vibration was so intense that the prism felt like droping off anytime soon. So I sold off all my Canon stuff in exchange for the Contax RTS with Zeiss lenses and never looked back since.

 

We all know the Nissan GTR outperforms the Porsche 911 Turbo,....that does not make the GTR anymore desirable as a sports car.

Edited by sillbeers15
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I appologize that I had not own or used a single Nikon camera in my life. My last Canon was the Canon A1, back while I was just a school boy. I remember firing it with motor drive on 'high', the vibration was so intense that the prism felt like droping off anytime soon. So I sold off all my Canon stuff in exchange for the Contax RTS with Zeiss lenses and never looked back since.

 

We all know the Nissan GTR outperforms the Porsche 911 Turbo,....that does not make the GTR anymore desirable as a sports car.

Car analogies really don't work well. The 911 Turbo now outperforms a GTR in most regards. I've owned two GTRs, including a Nismo, and the price is not far off the 911 anymore while performance has degraded since 2013 (other than the Nismo model).

 

The Canon 1DX and Nikon D5 serve a very different purpose at a similar price point to the SL. The SL just doesn't perform as well for the type of photography those cameras are designed for. Having shot a D4 and D4s I can tell you they are great sports/action cameras as well as great general purpose cameras. I still prefer the SL at this point because of the EVF and the ability to shoot my M lenses.

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Car analogies really don't work well. The 911 Turbo now outperforms a GTR in most regards. I've owned two GTRs, including a Nismo, and the price is not far off the 911 anymore while performance has degraded since 2013 (other than the Nismo model).

 

The Canon 1DX and Nikon D5 serve a very different purpose at a similar price point to the SL. The SL just doesn't perform as well for the type of photography those cameras are designed for. Having shot a D4 and D4s I can tell you they are great sports/action cameras as well as great general purpose cameras. I still prefer the SL at this point because of the EVF and the ability to shoot my M lenses.

I'm not sure if your info abot price of GTR similar as 911 Turbo is correct.

I keep my SL as a versetile camera with both AF zooms, so knowing the FW3.0 loaded improves the AFc + dynamic tracking capability gives me more confidence to use the SL as my 'general usage' camera. In my business trip to Milan last month, I could not afford to carry a bag of prime M lenses plus my M240, so 24-90 + SL which I brought along was a good comprimise for me.

 

Po River, taken from Turin,

34609532902_f555247863_k.jpgL1030450 by sillbeers15

Edited by sillbeers15
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