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MF point with M lens and SL


su25
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Hello,

I used a 90 mm f2 apo with Leica M adapter on the SL. Manual focus point defaults to the centre after every shot. Is this normal for this combo of lens + SL? I find it rather bothersome to move the focus point to the area (eyes) I need after framing the shot. If I focus first and then frame the shot, I will surely have soft images at f2. Anything I am doing wrong? Any suggestions?

Thanks.

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Yes I find this annoying too, and hope its an easy firmware update in due course. I find more and more however I can get the same lens in focus by just assessing the viewfinder without focus peaking, even at F2 as sometimes there just isn't time to zoom in and move the focus point over and over..

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Sue,

 

Shifting your frame will do nothing with the focus. Your lens remains manual as allways!

 

Enjoy your SL Summi 90 combo!

 

 

It will slightly alter the focal plane if Sue during the reframing process moves slightly forward or backwards, or the arc of the swing moves the focal plane slightly (esp if a large movement). 

 

If the focus is established in focus when dead centre but needs to be say on say the right hand third or more and Sue swings round, the focal plane is now fractionally in front of the subjects eyes, as the subject is on a tangent not the circumference.

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I am not sure if it helps. This is how I do it. I don't select the focus point. I frame my shot. Hit joystick to enlarge and move the joystick towards my subject at the same time. Focus and hit joystick or half press the shutter, to reduce mag, and take the photo. So far I am enjoying it.

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I am not sure if it helps. This is how I do it. I don't select the focus point. I frame my shot. Hit joystick to enlarge and move the joystick towards my subject at the same time. Focus and hit joystick or half press the shutter, to reduce mag, and take the photo. So far I am enjoying it.

I shall try this, as when I focus with the zoomed view and press the shutter, the framing is off - maybe because when I move the joystick towards the subject, I sometimes move the camera too and lose the original framing in the process.

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So you are focusing by selecting the crop view and nudging it over the subject's eye to ensure correct focus when you turn the focus ring on the lens. if you have the focus confirmation enabled then the surround of the eye shimmers in your selected colour (I use white).

Once you have this focused you return to full frame view and shoot. You haven't moved the camera, and the eye will still be shimmering with the confirmation colour. The final framing can't be that far off, surely. If so re-frame slightly.

 

I know you say this is bothersome, but hey, have you used your lens on an M to focus and re-frame?

John

Edited by jpattison
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So you are focusing by selecting the crop view and nudging it over the subject's eye to ensure correct focus

Yep, that works fine. You can surely focus more precisely like that than when using same lenses on M camera...

 

What bothers me is this "nudging" to subject eyes - if you want to make several shots you need to do it for every shot - couse the "nudged" position is not remembered ( cropped view 

always start in the middle of the frame )

 

Really hope it will be fixed in some of the future updates...

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I shall try this, as when I focus with the zoomed view and press the shutter, the framing is off - maybe because when I move the joystick towards the subject, I sometimes move the camera too and lose the original framing in the process.

 

You can achieve the same thing by pressing the bottom left button by the screen. and using the joystick I find this slightly quicker and more comfortable way to achieve the same.

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I use the 3x/10x enlargement of the finder. With this I can focus more accurately than ever before.

 

Agree with the SL and the viewfinder magnifications it is easy to focus even keeping my glasses on after adjusting the diopter adjustment. This is a revelation, no more on/off glasses routine - a pleasure indeed.

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  • 7 months later...

I would like to have the magnified focus view default to the spot meter circle. Linking  those two together would be very helpful especially for portaiture.

Of course it makes sense and would be so easy to implement in firmware

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I find it difficult when shooting naked models to focus period.....................I guess I need more practice

 

 

Perhaps with some samples the forum might be able to provide some tips with the issues you are having?

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