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1 hour ago, kivis said:

seems like a too low of a price. I thought M-A's were holding up in the used market.

I'm also surprise that  May 21 the same was at 3,400€ but no one was interested,

now at 3,000€ it is almost instant "reserved".

 

Shy from this meterless M maybe ?

If I didn't already have two ...

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Next second hand will be "offered" more (3,500-4,000€ ?), anyway that would be the right price of this cool M-A.

Second hand is the way to go, if we consider so many complaints on new M-A (as we know only unhappy "users" write here, happy users are taking pics with the M-A 😇).

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41 minutes ago, a.noctilux said:

Next second hand will be "offered" more (3,500-4,000€ ?), anyway that would be the right price of this cool M-A.

Second hand is the way to go, if we consider so many complaints on new M-A (as we know only unhappy "users" write here, happy users are taking pics with the M-A 😇).

Luckily my brand new M-A had been flawless (06/2021 dated) - fingers cross as I'm on my third roll now.

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On 1/21/2016 at 10:10 PM, ThePioneer said:

The wear on mine has a silvery grey appearance, not brass.

 

It is showing on the edge of the top cover from rewinding the film and on the back edge of the top cover where I flick the film advance lever. It is also showing where the metal ring of the strap rubs on each side.

The black chrome isn't directly on the bras, if I remember well there is a nickel layer between.

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On 12/12/2021 at 1:21 PM, Vlad Soare said:

That sounds correct. A three stop difference between shadowed and sun-lit areas on a sunny day sounds about right. 
Personally, I use a hand-held incident meter. On sunny days, when the light never changes, I take one reading from the sun, one from the shadows, then use either one or the other depending on where my subject is. If there are no clouds whatsoever, then my sun reading is always, always within a third of a stop from the Sunny-16 rule, while the shadow reading is three to four stops lower. So, if I were to forget my meter at home or to run out of battery, I would use Sunny-16 in the sun, subtract three stops in the shadows, and that would be it. 

Adapting the development to the scene's contrast is a bit tricky on small format film, because you may not always have an entire film shot under the same conditions. The old "expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights" adage works well on large formats. But if I happened to have an entire film shot like this, with shadowed subjects and sun-lit background elements, then I would subtract 10% to 15% from the normal development time for that particular film/developer combo. On a computer, as well as in the darkroom, it's a bit easier to add contrast if needed than to reduce it.

 

Few suggestions here, shorter film (24 exp or shorter if you bulk load) so you can process according to the lighting situation or use two body, one black for the shadows and one chrome for other situations.  Adjust your work flow accordingly.  In the end it's always to find the process that produce the image that you have in mind.

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  • 1 month later...

Lucked out and found a black M-A in stock yesterday. Received it today and shot my first roll of film through it. My only other film M experience has been a recently purchased M4-P that just had a Leica CLA. Even though the M4-P is an exquisite machine, I was dumbfounded by how sublime the operation of the M-A is. The one-piece winder is much easier to use, the time wheel clicks/resistance/fluidity is perfect (M4-P is very stiff, requiring two fingers), and the rangefinder is a wonder (my M4-P has the MP finder upgrade, but it’s still not as glorious).

I have the next few days off, so I’m looking forward to giving the M-A a workout.

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On 8/19/2021 at 6:38 PM, IkarusJohn said:

With the perennial talk of what the next M camera will have, or not; tempers raised; insults thrown; and imaginations gone wild, I decided some time ago to repair the cameras I have until that’s no longer possible.

My M-A is having a short holiday at Wetzlar, before going back into action.  I suspect it will be my last M still running (which is rather why I bought it).  Will post a picture when its back.

So where is the photo?

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3 hours ago, erickonghl said:

 

Hi,

I have got a Leica MA, and I am thinking of buying a digital Leica, perhaps the M10R (used).

Before plonking in the money, I thought I ask for advise for people here with both cameras.

Any comments/suggestions welcome. Thanks

 

I have both cameras. While I love my M-A, the M10-R taught me how to properly focus a rangefinder quick enough.. I very often just take it out and shoot at random things just to see if I managed to focus properly, with instant feedback, which was not really possible with the M-A.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 4/15/2022 at 9:32 AM, jakontil said:

would love a silver since i have black paint M10-r (mainly used for scanning negs

You have a $9000 camera just for scanning negs? That's seems expensive.

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On 7/27/2022 at 8:59 AM, junix said:

I have both cameras. While I love my M-A, the M10-R taught me how to properly focus a rangefinder quick enough.. I very often just take it out and shoot at random things just to see if I managed to focus properly, with instant feedback, which was not really possible with the M-A.

I have a 10-R as well as the M-A, but I use a Nikon Z7 to scan my negs.  It is so easy w that camera as the AF w the micro Nikkor 60mm lens (and FTZ) focuses instantly on the grain. Plus it uses the Nikon ES-2 film copier which makes things super simple.  

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On 8/26/2022 at 8:12 AM, hdmesa said:

The time and effort involved in doing your own scans is more costly, IMO.

Scanning the film with an AF digicam takes me maybe 10 minutes to scan 1 36exp film.  I then convert it with negativelabpro.com - that's the bit that takes longer even though it is very easy and you just click a few buttons.  But I am getting scans which are about 8000x5000 big.

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