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How to repair and retouch the Visoflex


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First of all... show some picture... possibly better than this one...

Viso I has a paint that is not so trivial to restore (much refined than PLOOT) having a sort of "texture" which prevents quick retouching... some labs (Van Manen) can take care of.

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Here is...This is partially disassembled for cleaning and some parts will receive a new chrome plating.

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The paint is black crackle. It is very hard to apply with consistent crackle and without runs. You can buy black crackle paint, but even then it helps to heat the part before painting it. It will be very hard to reproduce the finish that Leitz skillfully applied to many products under ideal conditions. Practice on some scrap metal before trying to spray the Visoflex.

 

The plater while have to know how the parts fit back together so that the brass and chrome build up does not make the parts too big to reassemble.

 

Visoflex I units are common, and a mint condition unit likely can be bought for less than the price of the chroming job.

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I wouldn't even try unless you are willing to strip the whole thing down and send it to a specialist finisher. The aerosol wrinkle finish paint is both inconsistent and only a decorative finish, so it won't stand up to handling.

 

Steve

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I wouldn't even try unless you are willing to strip the whole thing down and send it to a specialist finisher. The aerosol wrinkle finish paint is both inconsistent and only a decorative finish, so it won't stand up to handling.

 

Steve

 

I agree... if you want to do it yourself.. ok, can be a good exercise... if you had to pay for a lab... a well done job imho isn't worth the cost.

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I have done it on a Rollei Prism after practice with temperatures coating thickness and timing between the two required main coats. Very inconsistent and very hard to remove if a mistake happens. My last attempted use was for my retro iPhone cover.

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I have done it on a Rollei Prism after practice with temperatures coating thickness and timing between the two required main coats. Very inconsistent and very hard to remove if a mistake happens. My last attempted use was for my retro iPhone cover.

 

At this point of worning it will be more easy to remove all the painting and start from the brass with a primer and next if sanding is not necessary to apply layers with time in between for hardening, you can find this kind of paint you need for this 'crackling' aspect

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I have used black wrinkle paint for decades, some of it on camera bodies, and most on motorcycle engine parts. I find it remarkably durable. If applied properly, it looks very good. Remove the current finish, then clean the surface with acetone. Don't touch it after that. Working outside at a temperature of at least 70F, lay down a layer of green zinc primer (cold galvanizing spray paint) (dries very quickly), and when applying the paint (spray paint), keep a distance of 12 inches. Lay down one thick coat and wait about 6 minutes, but no longer than an 20 minutes to apply a second coat. Then, if the part will not be damaged, put it in the oven at 200F for 29 minutes, shut off the oven, then let it cool in the oven.

 

The crinkle finish hides any scratches or pits. Practice upon a metal something you don't care about.

Edited by pico
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Dear Pico, excellent instructions. I have some problems to found just now the VHT Wrinckle, but I will buy one can, because the supplier will import as soon as possible. Thanks a lot.

 

There are other brands. I just happen to use VHT.

 

By the way, the spray nozzle becomes clogged very easily. After using it, purge the nozzle by turning the can upside-down and spray until nothing but gas comes out. While it is still upside-down gently wipe the face of the nozzle to clean away any drippings.

 

That said, I still find that about half the cans still clog.

.

Best of luck!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have an old double-stroke M-3 dulled down for Ranger operations in Viet Nam. I used crinkle paint

to do so and it is still as good to as when applied in1968. The secret to all metal panting is surface

prep and proper application of acid- etch primer (thin) on a super cleaned surface. Crinkle paint

is them applied in three thin coats waiting 15-20 minutes between each coat, The body is usually stripped and I bake it @ 200 degrees but air dry fine, takes time to crinkle fully.

I have restored Visos to work with the Digital Viso 2, 2a and 3 sometimes modifying the inner

release mechanism for longer arm throw.

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I have an old double-stroke M-3 dulled down for Ranger operations in Viet Nam.

 

Welcome back, Rip. Good to see another vet who ignores the Pentagon directive of 1967 to spell Viet Nam as one word.

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I have an old double-stroke M-3 dulled down for Ranger operations in Viet Nam. I used crinkle paint

to do so and it is still as good to as when applied in1968. The secret to all metal panting is surface

prep and proper application of acid- etch primer (thin) on a super cleaned surface. Crinkle paint

is them applied in three thin coats waiting 15-20 minutes between each coat, The body is usually stripped and I bake it @ 200 degrees but air dry fine, takes time to crinkle fully.

I have restored Visos to work with the Digital Viso 2, 2a and 3 sometimes modifying the inner

release mechanism for longer arm throw.

Hey! Back again

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Here is the Visoflex I, now repainted and cleaned...

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Friends, I know that there is two versions of the right angle viewfinder PAMOO, for use into PLOOT or Visoflex I. One have a prism inside (newer) and the other one, a simple mirror. So, I have one for old model, with a mirror. My doubt is that the image produced by this viewer is reversed both horizontal and vertical way; in other words, upside down image.

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  • 6 years later...

hi Carlos ! just reading your thread with interest as I am trying to restore a Visoflex I myself, I received it in pieces and in reassembling it, I cannot get the release mechanism to return smoothly...it will lock up, with the mirror closed, for shooting, but it will not drop down open again for viewing...am I missing a spring ?

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