ho_co Posted April 11, 2007 Share #161 Posted April 11, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Gene-- That clamped shutter corner would still be a mystery even if it weren't clamped. Yes, there's a hole right where the mounting screw "should" go. But if you used that hole to mount the shutter, you'd then have the empty hole next to it which is now used to hold the clamp: Either way, the question remains--why two holes? Some day someone will explain it to us, and we'll all grin and say, "Oh how obvious! Why didn't that occur to us!" --HC Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 11, 2007 Posted April 11, 2007 Hi ho_co, Take a look here Anatomy of the Leica M8. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
MP3 Posted April 11, 2007 Share #162 Posted April 11, 2007 One of the best thread ever here, Mark. Real Bravo! 9 pages already. Mark, does anybody rise the question, After looking thur all the inside mechanics, do you think it is feasible to come up with a silent shutter by deferring the motor rewind till we release our finger from the shutter press? Cheers Matthew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marknorton Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share #163 Posted April 11, 2007 I have one question on the mechanical strenght of the shell that you might be able to answer. How are the eyelets (for the neckstrap) attached to the front casting? I am wondering if they would be able to withstand years use when the strap is attached to one eyelet only (see attached image). What do you think? Luca, Here's a picture the strap lug fixing for the right hand lug, the left is similar. You can there are two screws holding each on which should be fine to carry the weight of the camera each. But, clearly, you should keep an eye on them for signs of them coming loose or wearing! I thnk I'd also recommend a slightly elastic strap which will limit the force on them as the camera is brought to a halt after a fall. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/21079-anatomy-of-the-leica-m8/?do=findComment&comment=225374'>More sharing options...
marknorton Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share #164 Posted April 11, 2007 Mark, Just in case you did not see my previous posting ... did you see any weather sealants in the M8's interior? Sorry Arthur, missed it. The design of the camera relies on gravity to keep water out - it has to flow uphill to get into the camera around the rim of the top cover, over the metal "bump" underneath the shutter speed dial and the hot shoe is sealed with silicone which may be to keep the weather out. The weak point appears to be around the power switch. It's clearly not going to let the water free flow into the camera but it's not sealed. Note though that I didn't completely dismantle the power switch beyond what I showed in the picture - a special tool is required - so I cannot be 100% sure how it is. I have the tool on order, so if I can, I'll try a leak test. I'd say it's best to regard the camera as weather resistant, not weather proof, but it's far from shabby. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marknorton Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share #165 Posted April 11, 2007 The fact that they use more commonly available components, will allow repair for a far longer period, and allow camera support far longer than other manufacturers who use more specialized components which will have a shorter life. The design looks very good and seems to use qulity components and flex circuits seem top quality. The clamped shutter corner does seem a mistery when the hole is right there to tie it down with a screw. Could this possibly be some sort of adjustment consideration for proper alignment? Strange. Gene, it remains a mystery for me too, I was wondering whether tying it down causes problems due to expansion as the temperature increases. I expect the aluminium carrier for ther sensor is chosen to have similiar expansion characteristics as the casting - it's possible tying the shutter down caused it to warp at high temperatures and maybe mis-function. But I'm guessing here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marknorton Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share #166 Posted April 11, 2007 After looking thur all the inside mechanics, do you think it is feasible to come up with a silent shutter by deferring the motor rewind till we release our finger from the shutter press? Matthew, Both the actuation of the shutter and the motor are controlled by the M16C processor which also has direct access to the position of the shutter release so that it would be perfectly possible to defer the cocking of the shutter until the shutter release is released, all selected from a menu option which could be part of a profile. Alternatively, it's possible to think of an add-on Leicavit-type manual wind, see this picture. http://www.leica-camera-user.com/digital-forum/21331-anatomy-leica-m8-4.html#post224784 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
murmur Posted April 11, 2007 Share #167 Posted April 11, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Best... thread... ever. Nice work, Mr. Norton. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
papimuzo Posted April 11, 2007 Share #168 Posted April 11, 2007 All sorts of applauses have already be given, I can only add mine. Hat off Mr. Norton! Leica deserves client like you. All the best Mark. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted April 11, 2007 Share #169 Posted April 11, 2007 Mark, From one Engineer to another, you've produced a first-rate deconstruction and analysis that surpasses even the fine work you produced on the D2. The quality of your images is the key to the widespread comprehension of all forum members and is testimony to the exceptional talents you clearly possess. From one M8 owner to another, my heartfelt thanks for taking the time and effort to do it and to post your findings, which sloves the mystery surrounding the cost of this superbly-engineered and complex machine and silences its critics . You have undoubtedly earned the sobriquet "The Surgeon". So ... what's next? (I'd certainly like to know what's inside the Hubble Telescope. ) Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
egibaud Posted April 11, 2007 Share #170 Posted April 11, 2007 Great!!! thank you Just one question.... is the M8 cheaper when buying in DIY Kit? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marknorton Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share #171 Posted April 11, 2007 LOL, as I'm putting my camera back together, it's quite satisfying how well the parts fit together! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
k_g_wolf ✝ Posted April 11, 2007 Share #172 Posted April 11, 2007 Good luck, Mark ... I don´t anybody round here doubts you can manage. Best Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharookh Posted April 11, 2007 Share #173 Posted April 11, 2007 Mark - Please try and hold the sneeze till you put in the last screw!! Simply brilliant.....!! Best Sharookh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwalker649 Posted April 11, 2007 Share #174 Posted April 11, 2007 I took apart a 89 911...never could put it back together . Sold it for a huge loss...... Leica should pay you for the good PR. This thread should quiet the nay sayers! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott kirkpatrick Posted April 11, 2007 Share #175 Posted April 11, 2007 When you've finished up and put the last microscopic gold ball bearing back with its long coiled spring under the shutter speed dial, could you share some pictures of your work space and the hammer, tongs and soldering iron you are using? You said something about "just the tools any repairman uses," and I'd love to see what those are. scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted April 11, 2007 Share #176 Posted April 11, 2007 Mark stop drinking the coffee until your done. LOL Amazing feat i must say. I know i am one crazy guy and tries lot's of wild things but you got me big time here. Hats off and lets see some images from it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdai Posted April 11, 2007 Share #177 Posted April 11, 2007 Just out of curiosity, Mark ... have you recorded the amount of time you've spent on disassembly and putting them back together? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicapfile Posted April 11, 2007 Share #178 Posted April 11, 2007 Mark, "You're a braver man than I Gunga Din!" Simply a supurb job in every aspect. You are of course going to repeat the job for afficianados of the chrome bodies ? [:>)) Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adan Posted April 12, 2007 Share #179 Posted April 12, 2007 Mark: A bit late adding my - hmm - words of respect for your effort. But it was fun to follow the other reactions for a while. Good job of explanation, especially for someone like me who can't tell an EPROM from a DSP from the outside. As to the shutter-cocking mechanism - it looks similar to the levers I discovered in the bottom of a bent FM2 once: series of levers to translate shaft rotation (either by thumb or motor) into linear motion to shove the Copal shutter's cocking pin. I suspect it has been a fairly standard mechanism for either mechanical or motor-wind cameras with blade shutters, going all the way back to the first Nikkormat (or thereabouts) It may look a bit Rube-Goldberg (or Heath-Robinson, since Mark comes from that side of the Pond) - but a lot of cameras have had extensive lever-chains to achieve long-distance shutter cocking or release. Find an old bellows folding 120 camera like a Zeiss Ikonta and be amazed at the maze of shafts, levers, ramps, etc. I wonder about the multiple sleep modes the main processor has to manage. My wife and I both have iMacs, and they can experience a "white screen of Death" if both the screen-sleep and processor-sleep times are set to be the same (I guess the video card chips don't like having the main processor shut down while they're still awake). Wonder if the sudden-death syndrome(s) have a similar "mixed-up sleep" component? So - while you have it apart - why don't you go ahead and add YOUR 21mm framelines and MY 135mm framelines? Show Leica how simple it would be. 8^) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike prevette Posted April 12, 2007 Share #180 Posted April 12, 2007 Hey Mark, Any thoughts on the off/mode dial binding I've been experiencing? My m8 is part of the original 1500 and I've had a ton of issues with the switch binding up. To the point that it is absolutely immobile. It seems a little temperature sensitive, but that isn't conclusive. I can't totally work out the mechanism in your photos without playing with the thing in front of my own eyes. Can you shed any light on this? _mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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