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Anatomy of the Leica M8


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Any thoughts on the off/mode dial binding I've been experiencing? My m8 is part of the original 1500 and I've had a ton of issues with the switch binding up. To the point that it is absolutely immobile. It seems a little temperature sensitive, but that isn't conclusive.

 

I can't totally work out the mechanism in your photos without playing with the thing in front of my own eyes. Can you shed any light on this?

 

Mike, here are the compoents which make up the shutter release/mode switch, left to right:

 

- Shutter Release Button

- Mode Switch

- Collar

< top cover >

- Circuit Board

- Mode Switch Contacts

- Mounting Bush

- Mounting Plate

- Shutter Release Switch

 

The shutter release button screws into the mounting bush and is done up very tightly, you need a 5/8" (16mm) flex clamp to undo it. The mode switch and contacts mate together and exactly fill the space between the bottom of the shutter release and the top of the mounting bush but are free to rotate.

 

The bush is screwed to the mounting which is in turn screwed inside the top cover and that sets the clearance of the mode switch above the top cover. The collar, top cover and circuit board occupy the narrow section underneath the mode switch.

 

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As to the shutter-cocking mechanism - it looks similar to the levers I discovered in the bottom of a bent FM2 once: series of levers to translate shaft rotation (either by thumb or motor) into linear motion to shove the Copal shutter's cocking pin. I suspect it has been a fairly standard mechanism for either mechanical or motor-wind cameras with blade shutters, going all the way back to the first Nikkormat (or thereabouts)

 

...

 

So - while you have it apart - why don't you go ahead and add YOUR 21mm framelines and MY 135mm framelines? Show Leica how simple it would be.

 

I agree that for a generic component (though Copal are at pains to point out that they do not do shutter catalogs, each variant is custom made for the manufacturer), producing a linear pull is easier than rotation about some arbitrary centre and radius.

 

As for those framelines, when you see the masks "in the metal", they are incredibly small.

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Well, the camera is back together but a quick test showed the electronics is sulking and doesn't want to come out to play. It's not completely back together because I still want to do the leak test through the top cover, but it may well be the camera has acquired a bad case of SDS or, more exactly, SLDBD (Slow Lingering Death By Dismantlement). :D

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Mark, am I right that you did more than a service tech would have to do in stripping the camera down to get at some hard to reach part? You unsoldered stuff, rather than just unscrewing and disconnecting the parts that are joined at multipin connectors. So this is more than a stress test for serviceability.

 

scott

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Scott

 

Soldering is required to remove the circuit board from the top cover but other than that, most of the camera comes apart with standard screwdrivers, mainly Phillips 000 x 35mm, 00 x 35mm and 00 x 75mm. The only "special" tools required are a flex clamp to undo the shutter release knob and the frame selector lever.

 

I also unsoldered some wires in the shutter/motor-wind controller, just to show the circuit board here.

 

The problems I ended up with were one of the power wires to the DSP board coming out of the crimp and a fracture to one of the tracks to the shutter release switch.

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Pleased to say it's now working - one broken wire (replaced) and one cracked flex-print track (bypassed), upgraded to 1.102. Just needs a viewfinder and sensor clean and it's back in business.

 

I don't suppose you'd like to sell it now, for say... [checks credit card balance] ... $1000?

 

Murray

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Mark - Since you got the shutter release/mode switch apart any views on whether it is vulnerable to environmental water. Your description of the tight fits suggests that some rain drops shouldn't be a problem.

 

Woody, I think this is the weak point of the weather-proofing. In the interests of getting the camera working again, I abandoned the leak test but I am surprised the part I've labelled as "collar" is not glued to the top cover. If it were, the mode switch would fit over it and provide some real protection. As it is, it's not glued to the top cover and water can leak directly in. Granted, it's not a gaping chasm to let water in. that said, I still think the M8 can be classed as weather resistant so that if tou take reasonable precautions, it should be fine.

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Mark,

 

I wish I had seen this post earlier while your camera was still in pieces. I would've asked you to:

 

1) Look into the bag of electronic parts.

2) Pull out all of the non-Japanese electronic components.

3) Look for the part labled "Lucas."

 

That will be what's causing the Sudden Death.

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Mark,

 

When you resoldered, did you use lead-free solder and if so, which type? In that I do a lot of delving into my various hi-fi components with a soldering iron, I suppose I should be getting environmentally friendly and use lead-free but not sure which type to use. I don't like tin/bismuth and if I am going to use tin/silver, I will need to get one of those new thermostatically controlled high-temp irons. If you used traditional tin/lead solder, did it bond and alloy OK with the lead-free that Leica uses?

 

Wilson

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Mark,

 

When you resoldered, did you use lead-free solder and if so, which type? In that I do a lot of delving into my various hi-fi components with a soldering iron, I suppose I should be getting environmentally friendly and use lead-free but not sure which type to use. I don't like tin/bismuth and if I am going to use tin/silver, I will need to get one of those new thermostatically controlled high-temp irons. If you used traditional tin/lead solder, did it bond and alloy OK with the lead-free that Leica uses?

 

Wilson

 

Wilson, I use Tin/Copper/Silver and a high temperature iron, MP 217C.

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Mark,

 

I wish I had seen this post earlier while your camera was still in pieces. I would've asked you to:

 

1) Look into the bag of electronic parts.

2) Pull out all of the non-Japanese electronic components.

3) Look for the part labled "Lucas."

 

That will be what's causing the Sudden Death.

 

LOL, I think we can safely say that there's little connection between this camera and the UK electrical "giant" of the 60's...

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LOL, I think we can safely say that there's little connection between this camera and the UK electrical "giant" of the 60's...

 

The worrying thing is that after almost single handedly having sunk the British car industry, Lucas have now turned to making parts for commercial and military aeroplanes - and you thought it was safe to fly!

 

"Ladies and Gentlemen, I am just trying to restart the port engine"

 

Wow

 

---------Wow

 

------------------Wow

 

-------------------------Cough........

 

Wilson

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