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So Leicas are limited tools which are not made to shoot against the light whilst Lomos can do it? Hard to believe, folks.

All tools I've ever used have been limited in some way. You do have to select the tool that fits the job you want to do.

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Back-light, soft focus is a lost art. Anyone who pursues it with modern lenses is already lost.

 

So, my friend, you don´t know much about modern wedding photography, as exactly that is the trent now.

 

jose villa, jonas peterson (two top guys of the business) and thousends more...

 

 

But hey, you are all right, they use Nikons and Canons and yes, film Contax with Zeiss lenses,

 

but not Leicas, because they are not built to shoot into the sun. (:

 

 

 

I wrote to Leica, with the pics attached, let´s see what they say, ah wait, we know all ready:

 

don´t do that.

 

 

Heiko

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So you never shoot contrajours?

Very often but never with the sun in the shot if I can avoid it. And never with a fast lens wide open so that the picture is so overexposed that purple lines appear.:) In the same way I would look in the direction of sunlight but would normally hold my hand up to shade my eyes but I wouldn't stare directly into the sun.

 

Pete.

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LCT,

 

Thank you for supplying the links to your two example and I have too much respect for you to want to get into an argument over them so I shall only say what I see.:o

 

The first is well-exposed for the greenery and shows the sun with purple haze peeping through the branches. The second is overexposed and, on my screen, the branches have purple edges similar to frogfish's pictures, which is what I'd expect from pretty much any lens in a similar situation.

 

Pete.

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Back-light, soft focus is a lost art. Anyone who pursues it with modern lenses is already lost.

 

Lars! Where TF are ya when we need you!

Too true. For this style I would use something like a Summaron or Color-Skopar,

never a precision lens. Look at paintings by Rembrandt. He used a soft, broad brush for that incredible light.

 

You are using some of the harshest light imaginable to create a soft and romantic image. That means you want a lens that paints over the contrast edges with loads of veiling glare and distributes lightrays all over the image through its aberrations.

If you try to use a high-frequency lens that will render a 1:1000 contrast edge with block-wave fidelity you will have your pixels jumping in square backward loops to attempt to keep up. Which won't work.

Edited by jaapv
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If you want high performance, high res and fast lenses you need to live with it and learn to correct in post which takes a matter seconds to do.

 

I use the 35FLE in demanding conditions all week long for a living. It's never been a problem. I would take IQ over fringing anyday. Deal with or go back to Canon/Nikon muddiness.

 

Here is about 30 seconds of photoshop.

 

Edit to add - Aperture doesn't handle colour noise as well as lightroom 4. IMO. THikn you'll find you get a cleaner image still.

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Edited by Paul J
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Thanks. repeated for convenience:

 

 

 

 

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Here are both side by side.

 

edit - that was quick Jaap, beat me to it!

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Edited by Paul J
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Oh for crying out loud, there is nothing wrong with his lens, nor need he buy a different one, nor any lens filter or special post processing softening filter ... the OP simply needs to learn how to use the post processing tools the Gods of Adobe or Apple have already provided to us (I'm sure they exist in Aperture also).

 

Really sharp, highly corrected lenses produce purple fringing in certain lighting conditions and with certain sensors, especially CCDs with no AA filter like most CMOS cameras like Nikon and Canon have. Purple fringing is nothing new, and there are easy to use, very powerful tools to correct it whenever it rears its ugly head.

 

We also have tools like "Clarity" to either introduce a "more dreamy" or more acute look and feel to the image then mitigating Clarity with the other tools like contrast and highlight/shadow sliders.

 

Instead of everyone posting their images as proof of who knows what, why not just correct his test image? Heck, it was a no brainer to even fix the tiny jpeg he initially posted, let alone a full RAW DNG.

 

-Marc

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Oh for crying out loud, there is nothing wrong with his lens, nor need he buy a different one, nor any lens filter or special post processing softening filter ... the OP simply needs to learn how to use the post processing tools the Gods of Adobe or Apple have already provided to us (I'm sure they exist in Aperture also).

 

Really sharp, highly corrected lenses produce purple fringing in certain lighting conditions and with certain sensors, especially CCDs with no AA filter like most CMOS cameras like Nikon and Canon have. Purple fringing is nothing new, and there are easy to use, very powerful tools to correct it whenever it rears its ugly head.

 

We also have tools like "Clarity" to either introduce a "more dreamy" or more acute look and feel to the image then mitigating Clarity with the other tools like contrast and highlight/shadow sliders.

 

Instead of everyone posting their images as proof of who knows what, why not just correct his test image? Heck, it was a no brainer to even fix the tiny jpeg he initially posted, let alone a full RAW DNG.

 

-Marc

 

Thank god for a bit of sanity in this thread!

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