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Leica Summicron 28 ASPH and flare?

Tmuussoni

By Tmuussoni
in Leica M Lenses

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Tmuussoni

Tmuussoni

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Hello everyone.

 

I tried a search but I haven't exactly found an answer to my question. So here is the thing. For a long time I've been wondering whether to go for 28mm or 35mm – the never-ending question for all photographers :p Anyway, my mind is now made up to go for the Summicron 28mm. A fantastic lens in every possible way and I really love it's rendering. I am looking for a second hand example and they are fortunately for me readily available on the market.

 

I've seen plenty of talk about Summicron 28's flare and on the opposing side of spectrum are the people who say the Cron 28 is absolutely free of the flare problem. I am talking about the large purple blobs which appear on some shots and they do look like kind of terrible and the lost off contrast is severe. For example read here: Digi•Pixel•Pop . This is not the only source where i've seen such bad flare examples.

 

So obviously I wouldn't want to pay ~4000$/3000€ for a lens with a severe flare problem. According to Leica-Wiki (http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/28mm_f/2_ASPH_Summicron-M) serial numbers starting with 39xxxxx are potentially the ones with the "problem". The good news: all signs seem to point out that the flare problem (can) exists on the early pre-6 bit serial number samples. So it seems Leica has done some modifications silently in the design along the way. Perhaps there was some change in the coatings and the newer versions are free of the flare problem. Or at least it's not as bad.

 

So my question is this: I would like to know if people have any first hand experience on the early serial number, pre 6 bit coded lenses, and if this particular problem really exists? I am asking for this because there are plenty of available pre 6-bit Summicrons available on the used market and they are usually quite a bit cheaper than the later version. But I am really afraid to pull the trigger if these early serial numbers are more likely to have a flare problem compared to the later versions.

 

Thank you for reading :cool:

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colint544

colint544

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Hi,

 

I have a 28mm Summicron ASPH, a 2010 model, six bit coded, with a serial number beginning 410. I love it for it's ability to render smooth and melting backgrounds (when shot wide open), biting sharpness, and old school 'rounded' drawing characteristics.

 

It's compact, useful, and generally one of my favourite lenses. I find it pairs beautifully with the 50mm Summilux.

 

But it certainly can flare. Especially when pointed directly at a light source. Here's an example - a shot I took at a railway station in Glasgow:

 

https://500px.com/photo/30778973/charing-cross-by-colin-templeton?from=user_library

 

The flare pattern is quite distinctive - circular patterns which look like jellyfish, viewed from above. But I accept that it's just a characteristic of the lens. For me, the manifold benefits more than offset this one issue. For balance, here's a shot, where the lens wasn't pointed straight at the sun:

 

https://500px.com/photo/81799293/partick-cross-by-colin-templeton?from=user_library

 

Best wishes,

 

Colin

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smkoush

smkoush

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My lens has a serial number starting with 398XXXX, and I never really noticed any flare problem whatsover...keep in mind that to some extend all lenses can flare if the Sun is toward the edge of the field. In summary, this is an extraordinary lens, and in my opinion flare is definitely not the reason to stay away from it!

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A miller

A miller

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Hi,

 

I have a 28mm Summicron ASPH, a 2010 model, six bit coded, with a serial number beginning 410. I love it for it's ability to render smooth and melting backgrounds (when shot wide open), biting sharpness, and old school 'rounded' drawing characteristics.

 

It's compact, useful, and generally one of my favourite lenses. I find it pairs beautifully with the 50mm Summilux.

 

But it certainly can flare. Especially when pointed directly at a light source. Here's an example - a shot I took at a railway station in Glasgow:

 

https://500px.com/photo/30778973/charing-cross-by-colin-templeton?from=user_library

 

The flare pattern is quite distinctive - circular patterns which look like jellyfish, viewed from above. But I accept that it's just a characteristic of the lens. For me, the manifold benefits more than offset this one issue. For balance, here's a shot, where the lens wasn't pointed straight at the sun:

 

https://500px.com/photo/81799293/partick-cross-by-colin-templeton?from=user_library

 

Best wishes,

 

Colin

 

The flare in the lower right corner of the first shot is sublime, imho.

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NB23

NB23

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The 28 Cron is THE BEST LENS ON THE PLANET.

 

Basically, 50mm is for amateurs with no great vision. 35 is for liberated visions but still complexed. 28 is the master's fov. And the Cron is up the the task.

 

It's a great lens. Renders with grace. Flares quite a bit, makes the scenes alive!!!

 

If I had the balls, I'd use all my 4 M bodies with a 28 cron on each. That would be it. It's such a great lens. The best.

 

THE BEST

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uhoh7

uhoh7

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I have quite a few lenses, and also feel the 28 cron is my best lens.

 

However, anyone who has never seen the lens flare must not be shooting it much. Why do you think it comes with that monster hood? For show?

 

13181323673_f7cb0a3389_b.jpg

L1006496 by unoh7, on Flickr

 

3929351 6-bit.

 

15629862012_ef4c0a47a6_b.jpg

Yellow Saab by unoh7, on Flickr

 

14820745415_8cd95c7a04_b.jpg

L1017912 by unoh7, on Flickr

 

I've replaced the stock hood with a smaller screw on model that I prefer. One thing to be careful about with this and the SEM 21: do not travel with the lens in the case, hood down. This will eventually loosen the front group. Also when mounting, grasp the rear of the lens by the red dot. DAG sees this issue often and there is even a youtube video of a guy tightening up a 28 cron. But you need a custom tool.

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Stealth3kpl

Stealth3kpl

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The 28 Cron is THE BEST LENS ON THE PLANET.

 

Basically, 50mm is for amateurs with no great vision. 35 is for liberated visions but still complexed. 28 is the master's fov. And the Cron is up the the task.

 

It's a great lens. Renders with grace. Flares quite a bit, makes the scenes alive!!!

 

If I had the balls, I'd use all my 4 M bodies with a 28 cron on each. That would be it. It's such a great lens. The best.

 

THE BEST

 

I love your enthusiasm for this lens, and I know you're not easily impressed. You've motivated me to start using mine I've used it for one test film since getting it back from a service (that took one year to complete!!). I was impressed by that one film, but I always go for a 35/50 split when carrying two bodies. I must learn to use the 28mm.

One other thing - get a flat bed scanner so we can appreciate those lovely prints of yours. :)

Pete

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NB23

NB23

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I love your enthusiasm for this lens, and I know you're not easily impressed. You've motivated me to start using mine I've used it for one test film since getting it back from a service (that took one year to complete!!). I was impressed by that one film, but I always go for a 35/50 split when carrying two bodies. I must learn to use the 28mm.

One other thing - get a flat bed scanner so we can appreciate those lovely prints of yours. :)

Pete

 

Thank you.

 

Yes the 28 summicron is truly great, and the angle of view is the perfect story-teller.

I'll scan my prints when I'll be all done printing my stuff. It's gonna take a while. It's all fun.

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Herr Barnack

Herr Barnack

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I have not had flare issues with my 2003 era 28 'cron but it's not because I don't shoot it much. It's because I am always mindful of the direction the light is coming from.

 

If you want/need to shoot a backlit or nearly backlit subject, hold your hat or another object above and in front of the lens, but out of the frame. Move it around till the shadow falls on the front element of your lens.

 

Of course, sometimes you can't do the hat trick (such as when doing street photography) and you have to just accept the flare. Such is life - and photography.

 

... One thing to be careful about with this and the SEM 21: do not travel with the lens in the case, hood down. This will eventually loosen the front group. Also when mounting, grasp the rear of the lens by the red dot...
@uhoh7, thanks for that information - good to know.
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MarkP

MarkP

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The 28 Cron is THE BEST LENS ON THE PLANET.

 

Basically, 50mm is for amateurs with no great vision. 35 is for liberated visions but still complexed. 28 is the master's fov. And the Cron is up the the task.

 

It's a great lens. Renders with grace. Flares quite a bit, makes the scenes alive!!!

 

If I had the balls, I'd use all my 4 M bodies with a 28 cron on each. That would be it. It's such a great lens. The best.

 

THE BEST

 

I love a moderated opinion ;). My 28 Summicron ASPH and 50 Summilux ASPH are the best, and my favourite lenses, OF ALL TIME bar none :D:D

 

 

M9, 28 Summicron ASPH

shot directly into strong afternoon sun

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Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

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Stealth3kpl

Stealth3kpl

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Here's the hood that lives on my 28 cron. It takes a 58mm cap.

 

16052442275_eaf452c61a.jpg

Untitled by unoh7, on Flickr

 

Cost 10 bucks or so.

 

Where did you get that hood? I have a 12589 hood purchased for use with the 28 Summicron, but, looking at it, it won't provide much protection when the sun is up to my left hand side :rolleyes:

Although, I suppose I can put my finger in the hole in that sort of scenario.

Pete

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uhoh7

uhoh7

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Where did you get that hood? I have a 12589 hood purchased for use with the 28 Summicron, but, looking at it, it won't provide much protection when the sun is up to my left hand side :rolleyes:

Although, I suppose I can put my finger in the hole in that sort of scenario.

Pete

 

i think i did a search for 46mm hoods and bought several cheap ones. This was the best. It might have come from the bay.

 

I found the stock hood fragile.

 

Also I'm very skeptical there was ever a redesign of this lens, for any reason.

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