Focus point toggle or center or move

[lct]

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14 minutes ago, jaapv said:

That is why I think that Sonyfying the M series is such a bad idea. 

Best Leica move since 1954 to me. YMMV.

[M11 for me]

vor 13 Minuten schrieb lct:

Suffice it to select LV if you want to assign the fn button to it. Do you see any difficulty in this? In my case it works like that since 2022 so i don't think of it anymore.

I am not sure if I understand your point correctly.

Do you say that your FN button is set to LV? Mine is set to something else and then the doubble click does not work . .

Edited July 28 by M11 for me

[jaapv]

6 minutes ago, lct said:

Best Leica move since 1954 to me. YMMV.

MMMV indeed. 

[Viv]

1 minute ago, jaapv said:

MMMV indeed. 

My M Vees.

[M11 for me]

vor 1 Minute schrieb Viv:

My M Vees.

我的M 

[M11 for me]

vor 4 Minuten schrieb jaapv:

MMMV indeed. 

我的 Vees 

[Pelu2010]

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1 hour ago, lct said:

Double click on the fn button works 100% if needed so i don't see any issue personally. Fast and easy.

Hey IcT, 

 

perfect that does the trick for me! 

And I found out that to move the point on screen you need to "hold the finger" on the screen and move it.

Not tapping in the corners or center. Hold and move and then it moves as fast as your finger moves.

That is also acceptable! 

So thanx to all of you. 

I learned something with this thread. 

cheers and peace out. 

 

Peter 

 

[Pelu2010]

it seem to end in an abbreviation battle. 

Did not intend this with this minor question. 

So here an image of the concert with my 21mm. 

 

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[lct]

52 minutes ago, M11 for me said:

I am not sure if I understand your point correctly.

Do you say that your FN button is set to LV? Mine is set to something else and then the doubble click does not work . .

Suffice it to set the FN button to LV if you want to use my tip. You know how to do it i guess, otherwise i will tell you.

[lct]

Or you can use another function button if you prefer. Button # 6 below for instance. Just assign it to LV and a double click on it will do the trick as well.

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[M11 for me]

vor einer Stunde schrieb lct:

Suffice it to set the FN button to LV if you want to use my tip. You know how to do it i guess, otherwise i will tell you.

Thank you. I know hiw to do. Unfortunalely I use this button for another function. 

And what you do with the functionnLV is that you turn LV off and with the second press on again. So thats a workaround. Better though than turning off and on the camera itself. Leica should really give a better solution than a workaround. But as you say: It works that way. 

[M11 for me]

vor 4 Minuten schrieb lct:

Or you can use another function button if you prefer. Button # 6 below for instance. Just assign it to LV and a double click on it will do the trick as well.

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No, no 🤣

All function buttons are used here . . . Thank you anyway. I appreciate.

Edited July 28 by M11 for me

[lct]

35 minutes ago, M11 for me said:

Leica should really give a better solution than a workaround.

This solution exists already, the "Center Frame" option for function buttons. One click is enough for it. See:

 

[M11 for me]

vor 41 Minuten schrieb lct:

This solution exists already, the "Center Frame" option for function buttons. One click is enough for it. See:

 

What a miracle: You are right. I never saw this one and I am sure that many are not aware of that. 

I always imagined a solution like with the Q3. There you do not have to give away a function key for such a minor function. Just doubble tap. Much better. 

However, I learned somthing here.

 

[jaapv]

4 hours ago, Pelu2010 said:

Hey Jaap, 

this problem comes up, when I am using lenses that are longer than 50mm or if I am cranking the lens to get shallower focus. In this situation both of my hands are in action and I can’t use my left hand to do the refocusing. And it’s a 90mm 1:1.25 so the focus is so shallow that I can’t match this in a concert. That’s why I switch to the screen. And I am thinking of buying the evf for just this kind of purposes. 
 

And I don’t see a big problem for all other users if the focus zoom can be fixed in the center or can be reset to the center. 
 

It’s just if it can’t be (and other leicas can) it makes me wonder why? 
 

I can work around it no problem! 
But I was curious if other user are experiencing the same problem. That’s all. 
 

I can work with my M2 very nice and slowly. But I wouldn’t use it on the same job with the 90mm, because I could not be sure that the image is sharp. 
 

And yes I am aware that there is a magnification that helps with the focus. 
 

thats all. 
 

 

I don’t quite get what usage you are describing. Your left hand is under the lens supporting and focusing and your right hand is at shutter and your eye at the viewfinder or if needs be the Visoflex. Speed dial is next to the shutter button and aperture next to the focus ring both in easy reach. 
what else do you need? 
Genuinely trying to find out what bothers you. 

[charlesphoto99]

4 hours ago, Pelu2010 said:

That are some images where I had the problem. 

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You will have less success using the rear screen than the RF for this type of shot. Think about it - holding the camera out in front of you versus holding it against your eye, the focus plain is going to waver in and out much more. You'll have more control with the vf against your eye because you just have to move your head slightly to get the rf patch in focus with the subject. Essentially move with the subject. With a wide lens, I usually just guesstimate the framing, or use an optical finder in the hot shoe, esp as the  'action' is typically towards the center of the frame. 

As a long time concert shooter, imo you'll also have much more luck with a Monochrome M that can be bumped up to 25 or 50k iso. And IME, any longer lenses that is faster than f/4 or f/2.8 is a bit of a unicorn, whether it be on a dslr, mirrorless, or rangefinder. I loved the 135 f/2 I had for my Nikon, but at f/2 it was pretty hit or miss. With SLR's, fast apertures keep the viewfinder bright, more so than they were meant to be shot wide open under bad light. 

[Pelu2010]

5 minutes ago, jaapv said:

I don’t quite get what usage you are describing. Your left hand is under the lens supporting and focusing and your right hand is at shutter and your eye at the viewfinder or if needs be the Visoflex. Speed dial is next to the shutter button and aperture next to the focus ring both in easy reach. 
what else do you need? 
Genuinely trying to find out what bothers you. 

"Freelensing", also known as "lens whacking" , without that I have more control over the camera. It generate a tilt shift effect in camera. And you are able to get the lens to macro and tilt focus. As such you can get closer to the subject. 

But if the camera shifts the focus point when you touch the display and you have released the lens at that moment, it is easier to shift the focus point using a shortcut instead of doing it via the display.

 

[Pelu2010]

7 minutes ago, charlesphoto99 said:

You will have less success using the rear screen than the RF for this type of shot. Think about it - holding the camera out in front of you versus holding it against your eye, the focus plain is going to waver in and out much more. You'll have more control with the vf against your eye because you just have to move your head slightly to get the rf patch in focus with the subject. Essentially move with the subject. With a wide lens, I usually just guesstimate the framing, or use an optical finder in the hot shoe, esp as the  'action' is typically towards the center of the frame. 

As a long time concert shooter, imo you'll also have much more luck with a Monochrome M that can be bumped up to 25 or 50k iso. And IME, any longer lenses that is faster than f/4 or f/2.8 is a bit of a unicorn, whether it be on a dslr, mirrorless, or rangefinder. I loved the 135 f/2 I had for my Nikon, but at f/2 it was pretty hit or miss. With SLR's, fast apertures keep the viewfinder bright, more so than they were meant to be shot wide open under bad light. 

The images I shared were taken with the 90mm 1:1,25 F. I like the results. I was only struggling with the moving focus point. I knew it would be difficult. I specifically chose this challenge to see what results I could achieve.

[charlesphoto99]

8 minutes ago, Pelu2010 said:

The images I shared were taken with the 90mm 1:1,25 F. I like the results. I was only struggling with the moving focus point. I knew it would be difficult. I specifically chose this challenge to see what results I could achieve.

Yes, that's great. My point is you're losing time and taking yourself away from what's happening by moving focus points around (and then getting frustrated when they don't). The whole concept of the M optical viewfinder is to see what else is around the frame as an aid in composition (for what you might want to include, or not, or what might be about to move into frame), and this works especially well 50mm and up. 

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[jaapv]

1 hour ago, Pelu2010 said:

"Freelensing", also known as "lens whacking" , without that I have more control over the camera. It generate a tilt shift effect in camera. And you are able to get the lens to macro and tilt focus. As such you can get closer to the subject. 

But if the camera shifts the focus point when you touch the display and you have released the lens at that moment, it is easier to shift the focus point using a shortcut instead of doing it via the display.

 

But It would not change the focus as such with an M lens? So what is the use?  Nor do see I any evidence of such use in the images you posted. And what is a tilt-shift effect in a camera without tilt/shift lens or being a view camera? Or an SL with Perspective Control?  I think you have lost me completely.