Home developing

[Einst_Stein]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

It means the chemical might corrode the pipe if the ph value deviate from neutral too far.
Developer is usually towards base while fixer is towards acid, but I am not sure if this is always true. When it is true, combining the developer and fixer might help to bring it towards neutral so as to reduce the pipe corrosion. 

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[Stuart Richardson]

I think if you rinse with plenty of water it is unlikely you will have any problems from the pH, but ideally you should not be dumping the chemicals down the drain anyway. Rinse and photo flo are fine in low volume house situations. The developer and fixer are more toxic to aquatic life than they are for their pH. The dissolved silver in fixer is highly toxic to aquatic life.  Fixer is around 4-6, and stop bath 3-5.5. Coffee is around 5 or so, for reference and straight vinegar around 2.8.  
 

When you are starting out 1+1 with one shot development will be quite helpful because it allows for consistency. If you reuse the developer it will work for a certain number of rolls, but will gradually lose activity and need adjustment for consistency. It will also cut down on hair/dust/crud on the film. For consistent high quality results in a non-replenished system, I recommend one shot, especially as a beginner. 

Edited July 28, 2024 by Stuart Richardson

[Einst_Stein]

Final rinse can be done with around 5 cycles of water.  Assuming you develop 2 roles at a time, it would be 600ml x 5 == 3 liter of water.  Alternative is alow free runing waterusing things like Jobo's tube. It would take about similar amount.

For environment friendly, ideally you should use special recycle like dumping the mobile oil, but I know very few amature photographers do that. Most likely you will dump it into the toilet, I guess. So you are likewly to be guilty for the aquatic life. The only thing you can help, I assume, is to minimize pipe corrosion as a good cutizen, by doing Ph neutralization as much as possible. Nothing is too little.  

Edited July 29, 2024 by Einst_Stein

[Smudgerer]

13 hours ago, costa43 said:

Thank you. I do have a water supply outside for a hose. Fine up until December but then switched off for the winter.  I’ll check out fotoimpex. Thank you for the tip.

There's some excellent advice here, I hope that it will help you towards developing your first films, even whilst banished to the garage!

Two things I'd add. I'd always would use a stop bath, some films and developer choices/dilutions can mean rather short developing times so the use of a stop bath ensures that the process is halted swiftly at the right time, even a well diluted stop bath mix is I feel better than a water rinse.

I'd also second the use of a bathroom to hang the processed/washed films to dry there, of any room in the house a bathroom is least likely to attract floating dust particles.

And, I'm not associated with them in anyway other than being a client myself but this "Starter Kit" from Fotoimpex is nicely thought out and quite good value.........https://www.fotoimpex.com/analog-starter-kits/fotoimpex-starter-kit-film-basic.html?_gl=1*v51y5d*_up*MQ..*_ga*NjIxMjU1MjgwLjE3MjIyNDMzMjA.*_ga_SK7JSK7SZR*MTcyMjI0MzMxOS4xLjAuMTcyMjI0MzMxOS4wLjAuMA..

[Smudgerer]

This is perhaps way over the top for some of you but I would like to recommend this piece of gear to those who do get bitten by the home processing bug, and yes it's expensive perhaps even for Leicaists, and yes when I bought it two years ago even I at the time though I had to be slightly mad, but it quickly became one of the key pieces of my photography kit here for me.........It's the Filmomat processor, here's the website with information and links to videos about it and it's use....( and no, other than being a client I have no links with them )

https://www.filmomat.eu/

Although mine resides in my small darkroom it can easily run anywhere in the house, ( even a garage! ), and is fully automatic for regular and C41 processing. Mine's seen constant use and has well proven, for me, to have been a very good investment. They also make a "junior" version too, Filmomat Light, that improves on the older style Jobo film processing machines at a much lower price.

[ymc226]

On 7/30/2024 at 4:39 AM, Smudgerer said:

This is perhaps way over the top for some of you but I would like to recommend this piece of gear to those who do get bitten by the home processing bug, and yes it's expensive perhaps even for Leicaists, and yes when I bought it two years ago even I at the time though I had to be slightly mad, but it quickly became one of the key pieces of my photography kit here for me.........It's the Filmomat processor, here's the website with information and links to videos about it and it's use....( and no, other than being a client I have no links with them )

https://www.filmomat.eu/

Although mine resides in my small darkroom it can easily run anywhere in the house, ( even a garage! ), and is fully automatic for regular and C41 processing. Mine's seen constant use and has well proven, for me, to have been a very good investment. They also make a "junior" version too, Filmomat Light, that improves on the older style Jobo film processing machines at a much lower price.

I also am a user of the Filmomat and find it very convenient, processing 8 rolls a session (4 at a time of either 135 or 120/tank) so I don't ever have to store used solutions.  I just buy C-41 chemicals in 1 quart packs.  B&W chemicals such as Ilford fixer and developer can store well if I add inert gas to top off any opened bottle.  Also mix up 1 L B&W chemicals and 8 rolls just about uses up this amount of chemical as well so no storage required.  I buy the Arista 1 quart C-41 kit which looks the same as the CInestill kit.  

I also liked Xtol in the past when I had a dedicated darkroom and had more volume of film throughput but now since I develop much less, the mixed Xtol would be too much and likely be wasted.  I found that Adox also makes a Xtol replica XT-3 that can be mixed in 1L volumes.  

Of note, the Filmomat does have a heater for color development but not a cooler for B&W.  I understand times can be adjusted for higher temps but the results may be inconsistent.  I live in SoCal (USA) and at comfortable room temps, the water would be too hot so I have to have refrigerated water available to mix with tap water to allow for the standard 20C temperature.  For color, though the Filmomat has a heater, it takes about 45 minutes of heating before the development process starts.  I jumpstart this by adding heated tap water close to the recommended temps to both the water bath and when mixing the chemicals and speeds up the process considerably.  Overall, I am very satisfied with the Filmomat and any questions were quickly answered by the seller. 

[LocalHero1953]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I am likely to switch to Xtol as my HC110 runs out, for low toxicity reasons.

I do not have a high throughput, so smaller quantities of chemicals are attractive. Xtol seems to be only available to make up to 5L at a time. Is there a disadvantage to using Adox XT-3 instead, which seems to be available to make up to just 1L?

[Danner]

4 hours ago, LocalHero1953 said:

I am likely to switch to Xtol as my HC110 runs out, for low toxicity reasons.

I do not have a high throughput, so smaller quantities of chemicals are attractive. Xtol seems to be only available to make up to 5L at a time. Is there a disadvantage to using Adox XT-3 instead, which seems to be available to make up to just 1L?

XTOL has good keeping properties at stock strength, as long as it's stored in full glass bottles.  I have used it up to one year after mixing the powder and it still performed well.  Mix it in a bucket, and then transfer to five 1-liter bottles.  It's a excellent developer.

[hansvons]

On 8/5/2024 at 9:37 AM, LocalHero1953 said:

Is there a disadvantage to using Adox XT-3 instead, which seems to be available to make up to just 1L?

No. Excat the same stuff as the Kodak original with the bonus that the powder is less powdery. It's super convenient to mix. Have used it on 50+ rolls. No-brainer. 

[johnwolf]

I process at the kitchen sink, but could probably do it anywhere. I fill a plastic tub with water at 68° and everything comes from that tub.  I mix HC-110 from that water and use it for stop batch, rinse (using the Ilford method), and mixing clearing agent. Fixer, of course, goes back in its jug. In your case you'd need a bucket, container, or drain for the waste. You could wash your processing gear outside. 

However, I can't help but feel that once you became skilled at the process and demonstrated how simple it is, she might change her mind. I do a roll in about 20 minutes with no mess and the chemistry in open air only briefly. Kitchen objection I can understand, but bathroom? There really is not much to it. Good luck. 

John 

Edited August 7, 2024 by johnwolf

[costa43]

An update, I've developed a few rolls at home now. It's amazing how much easier it gets even after the first couple of goes at it. I did screw up my first roll trying to get it onto the reel but plain sailing since then.

My workflow is not really finalised and I'm a little all over the place but the results have been pleasing. The good news is that I'm ok with the bathtub for the water supply I think, especially when my daughter is asleep or not home. I explained that Xtol was based on vit C which helped and I've ended up using it at stock, so it goes straight back in. It's split across 5 bottles of a litre each, that's good for circa 75 rolls which is an insanely good cost per roll of around 30p/33 cents. I've followed Kodaks guidelines and increased the time after the first five rolls and everything has been smooth sailing. I'm using fomafix as it is readily available where I am, diluted 1:4 and it goes straight back into a bottle, so no chemical dumps down the drain and little open chemical exposure. I'm not using a stop bath and just use regular water, on the final rinse I use demineralised water with a couple of drops of a wetting agent and voila, hang them up.  I've found it a really satisfying experience.

I wanted to thank everybody for all the input given, it really helped me out. Cheers.

 

 

Edited August 8, 2024 by costa43

[johnwolf]

1 hour ago, costa43 said:

… I did screw up my first roll trying to get it onto the reel but plain sailing since then.…

Are you using plastic reels? They jam easily unless perfectly dry. And even otherwise. I always unwind my film and feed it onto the reel from the end taped to the spool. It loads the reels much better.

Glad to hear it’s going well.

[costa43]

32 minutes ago, johnwolf said:

Are you using plastic reels? They jam easily unless perfectly dry. And even otherwise. I always unwind my film and feed it onto the reel from the end taped to the spool. It loads the reels much better.

Glad to hear it’s going well.

Thank you. Yes, I'm using the plastic reels that came with the Paterson tank. I think I have it down now, I snip the leader bit off the film and it seems easier to load but like anything, practice makes perfect.

[Tom R]

17 minutes ago, costa43 said:

Thank you. Yes, I'm using the plastic reels that came with the Paterson tank. I think I have it down now, I snip the leader bit off the film and it seems easier to load but like anything, practice makes perfect.

You will likely get lots of opinions, anecdotes, etc., about loading plastic reels. I think that you’re getting good advice about casting on from the anchored (or attached) end of the film where the curl is more likely to result in smoother, snag-free rolling-on.

When trimming the anchored end of 35mm films, I’ve lately tried cutting at a slight (20 - 30 degree) angle (as close as possible to the spool so as not to nick the last frame). This makes it easier to find the “long end” and slip it under the plastic lip, anchoring the first centimeter or so of loose film, which then facilitates slipping the remaining (free) edge into its proper orientation on the reel. And, as always, gently pull the newly attached edge of the film at least halfway around the reel. Then re-orient the reel to the upright position and proceed with slow and deliberate turns (one side only), listening and feeling for any weirdness for the first six or so twists (ratchets) of the reel to ensure that nothing had impeded the advance of the film onto the reel.

As always: practice makes perfect. I don’t know if you’re considered medium format films; if so, purchase the Omega or similar reels with the larger ramps—it’ll make a big difference in time and stress.

Enjoy!

Edited August 8, 2024 by Tom R
Clarification in the second sentence, second paragraph.

[250swb]

55 minutes ago, costa43 said:

Thank you. Yes, I'm using the plastic reels that came with the Paterson tank. I think I have it down now, I snip the leader bit off the film and it seems easier to load but like anything, practice makes perfect.

You don't need to find new ways to load the plastic Paterson reels. Sometimes for whatever reason they don't want to load in the usual long rotation of each half (and it may be the film thickness or emulsion that's grabbing and not a problem with the reel). The answer is to put your inner gorilla back in its cage and just delicately nudge the film forward even if it's only by one sprocket hole at a time using tiny movements, and the film will go onto the reel even if it takes a minute and not a few seconds.

[costa43]

On 8/8/2024 at 6:04 PM, 250swb said:

You don't need to find new ways to load the plastic Paterson reels. Sometimes for whatever reason they don't want to load in the usual long rotation of each half (and it may be the film thickness or emulsion that's grabbing and not a problem with the reel). The answer is to put your inner gorilla back in its cage and just delicately nudge the film forward even if it's only by one sprocket hole at a time using tiny movements, and the film will go onto the reel even if it takes a minute and not a few seconds.

Inner gorilla! Haha so true, this is me, pretty heavy handed. After the first time when it all scrunched up, I did exactly that, tiny little moves instead of full lock to lock. It has worked well. 

[Danner]

On 8/8/2024 at 11:04 AM, 250swb said:

You don't need to find new ways to load the plastic Paterson reels. Sometimes for whatever reason they don't want to load in the usual long rotation of each half (and it may be the film thickness or emulsion that's grabbing and not a problem with the reel). The answer is to put your inner gorilla back in its cage and just delicately nudge the film forward even if it's only by one sprocket hole at a time using tiny movements, and the film will go onto the reel even if it takes a minute and not a few seconds.

My experience as well.  Humidity is bad, any moister is bad.  I chamfer the two corners on the leading edge of the film roll.  Just a few millimeters off the corners, with a scissors in the dark.  Film guides onto the reel more easily.

Edited August 16, 2024 by Danner

[TomB_tx]

7 minutes ago, Danner said:

My experience as well.  Humidity is bad, any moister is bad.  I chamfer the two corners on the leading edge of the film roll.  Just a few millimeters off the corners, with a scissors in the dark.  Film guides onto the reel more easily.

Thanks for the tips. After using Stainless reels & tanks for 50 years I've started using Paterson to work with the AGO processor for color films. 120 & 35 24-exp have loaded fine, but 36 exp color tends to bind the last 1/3 roll, so I'll try the chamfered corners. Color seems a bit thicker with a different texture.

[Advertisement]

Hallo,

Look here: Interesting Leica gear

[PCPix]

On 8/16/2024 at 8:43 PM, TomB_tx said:

36 exp color tends to bind the last 1/3 roll,

Blow the Paterson reels with a hair-dryer just before you load. That gets rid of any slight dampness/condensation and the residual heat prevents any more forming.