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Inspired by the other thread on the poor focusing under low light situations. I decided to make a new one based on one of the replies there.

Lets get the ball rolling! Do you use the mag focus assist?

I do not because my mind can't comprehend or remember the composition when zoomed in. Most especially in live events, when people move.

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I certainly use it on my Sony A7rii with adapted Leica lenses. It is especially helpful when shooting wide open, as the DOF is so narrow. You would probably benefit from practice.

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I could not do without magnification. The focus peaking aid is not precise enough for me for critical focus with fast primes.

I always use full view magnification.
I point the camera at my focus point, magnify (joystick click) and focus manually, then half press on the shutter to get the full view back and reframe before shooting.

It is very similar to how I use the Leica M focus patch.

Edited by dpitt
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I am constantly focussing in the dark at remote train crossings and it's quite difficult sometimes. Even the focus assist, one would be lucky to get a grainy mash of noise in the evf with some focus peaking in that mix. Manual focusing along with shining light onto the subject is a must to get it right. Using back focus button or the shutter button is out of the question. I haven't tried the enhanced live view in these situations, maybe I will give a go? If you have the time to focus in the dark, you can eventually get it locked on but it's hard if you are in a hurry or the subject is moving around.  

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I regularly shoot music gigs in low light at the limit of AF, so often use magnification either to confirm AF or then to help with my MF.

Indeed it is limited when performers are moving around, by the time you have focussed and zoomed out again things have changed. I usually set a focus point (e.g. just behind the singer's microphone) and wait until I feel that magic combination of interesting expression + in focus. 

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I agree with you that zooming in makes it nearly impossible for me to keep track of anything moving. In this sense, it is great for detail shots, but terrible for anything moving. It is also one of the reasons I tend to stick to autofocus for the SL system. I have no trouble focusing with the M system or on a ground glass, but the zooming in makes it too hard to compose. At least handheld. Jaap referred to the Panasonic implementation, which in my opinion is much much better in this case. At least it allows you to see the edges of the frame, so you can tell where you are. It would be great if Leica could add this option, as I do think it is more useful to have the whole frame magnified for tripod work.

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Use it with my SL2-s and R lenses. Have it on the back dial so I can change the magnification.  Front dial for EV comp and aperture is of course on the lens.

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On 6/2/2024 at 11:01 AM, dpitt said:

I could not do without magnification. The focus peaking aid is not precise enough for me for critical focus with fast primes.

I always use full view magnification.
I point the camera at my focus point, magnify (joystick click) and focus manually, then half press on the shutter to get the full view back and reframe before shooting.

It is very similar to how I use the Leica M focus patch.

Similar, except back button AF (joystick), and turn focus ring to magnify for critical work with static subject and enough time. As mentioned, easy return to full composition with light shutter press. Focus peaking permanently off.

Jeff

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I use it for critical focus, mainly stationary/slow moving subjects. Punch in with the joystick and then half click to go back. For moving subjects I tend to rely on the evf. I enjoy using the peaking to aide with maximising depth of field. 

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