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So compared to M10R, M11P consistently overexposes, to my liking.  Maybe I was underexposing all along...  So using EV compensation -1/3 or -2/3 is a tried and true way with Leica.  What is it with them?  Why do we have to do it year on year on all models?

What other approaches have you seen work to achieve less blown up exposure overall?  

Edited by setuporg
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On my EVF cameras I expose by the histogram and EV compensation. My exposure varies between -2.5 and +2 and is nearly always spot-on. Therefore I think that a one-size-fits-all EV compensation is not very accurate.  On M cameras I use manual and judge by the triangles.

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1 hour ago, setuporg said:

So I think you’re an outlier.:)

Perhaps he is.  But there are plenty who extol the virtues of ETTR.

 

Edit: I tend to use the highlight weighted metering option which often reduces overall exposure to save highlights.

Edited by marchyman
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Using the M11 outdoors in good/contrasty light, I set the shutter speed manually and place the spot meter on the highlights I care about, to produce +.7 over-exposure, which I would classify as ETTR. This is very accurate and the camera can always pull back the highlights.

Indoors, I am usually willing to let the camera auto meter the shutter speed. In that case, I use highlight metering and set Exp Comp to -.3 or -.7. If the lighting is tricky or really contrasty, I'll go back to using the spot meter and manual exposure. Auto ISO is an additional complication, which can sometimes produce exposure errors, so I avoid using unless I'm moving very quickly. 

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10 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Losing dynamic range...

Only the result counts but I prefer visual navigation to instrument navigation.generally. Often drives me to do the opposite of techies' advices i admit 😉

Edited by lct
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53 minutes ago, jaapv said:

On my EVF cameras I expose by the histogram and EV compensation. My exposure varies between -2.5 and +2 and is nearly always spot-on. Therefore I think that a one-size-fits-all EV compensation is not very accurate.  On M cameras I use manual and judge by the triangles.

On my cameras I also expose by histogram but use manual exposure control. Once set then I can ignore exposure unless the lighting changes ...... . Camera model/type is irrelevant given that aperture, shutter and ISO are the three base parameters which need controlling. 

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8 hours ago, setuporg said:

So compared to M10R, M11P consistently overexposes, to my liking.  Maybe I was underexposing all along...  So using EV compensation -1/3 or -2/3 is a tried and true way with Leica.  What is it with them?  Why do we have to do it year on year on all models?

What other approaches have you seen work to achieve less blown up exposure overall?  

Leave the lens cap on. Always works for me.

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11 hours ago, setuporg said:

So compared to M10R, M11P consistently overexposes, to my liking.  Maybe I was underexposing all along...  So using EV compensation -1/3 or -2/3 is a tried and true way with Leica.  What is it with them?  Why do we have to do it year on year on all models?

What other approaches have you seen work to achieve less blown up exposure overall?  

I don’t use any exp comp. I shoot an M10R. All my exposure is fully manual. Nothing over or underexposes. I make it perfect and I keep on shooting. On the M10R the exposure meter in the viewfinder is a guide for you to choose the exposure. You have to consider the entire frame and find what you’re happy with and lock it in. I don’t let the camera decide anything. 

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On 11/30/2023 at 12:55 PM, jaapv said:

Losing dynamic range...

This.

On 11/30/2023 at 1:05 PM, lct said:

Only the result counts but I prefer visual navigation to instrument navigation.generally. Often drives me to do the opposite of techies' advices i admit 😉

Listen to Jaapv. Visual navigation is great unless you're flying your proverbial airplane into the side of a mountain every time you shoot. Let the instruments (histogram plus experience) be your visual. Turn off exposure preview and leave on image review until you learn to trust it. Consistently underexposing your images not only is crushing your shadows but it robs the overall image of brilliance it would have otherwise. Do some exposure bracketing going higher in exposure by 1/3 stops from where you normally shoot.  Post-process all of them to taste, then pick the best one. It will not be the one you thought it was. And you have learned a new trick – how to expose properly.

 

On 11/30/2023 at 9:28 AM, setuporg said:

So compared to M10R, M11P consistently overexposes, to my liking.  Maybe I was underexposing all along...  So using EV compensation -1/3 or -2/3 is a tried and true way with Leica.  What is it with them?  Why do we have to do it year on year on all models?

What other approaches have you seen work to achieve less blown up exposure overall?  

Turn on highlight-weighted metering, otherwise the camera is biasing the metering for what it thinks is the most important part of the image.

As a side note, I used the Nikon Zf for a while, and Nikon's version of highlight-weighted metering is crazy aggressive compared to Leicas. I would like to see Leica split the difference since their highlight weighted metering will neglect the highlights if they are too small in the frame.

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