Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Advertisement (gone after registration)

There is a BP MP on eBay right now from a recent production (2021, based on S/N) sold by MapCamera.

Too bad I have my money tied up with a defective M-A..

 

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/355042647710?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4Qq4_5rTSZG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=C-4tk8SZSGa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Edited by 69xchange
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

a black MP indeed,

- the resale value of M6 will be disrupted by the old M6 variants which is a pool of muddy water 

- a late version M7 is an ideal alternative if you carry the camera with you a lot

- if you see the majority use M3, M6, M7, MP, but not MA, then there must be a reason

- a black MP will brass the top plate, can you tolerance that? or maybe a chrome MP? (some people are queuing for a naturally brassed MP)

I saw a  guy in this topic traded a 0.58 black MP ALC for a M10M,  just like the Duke of Winsor, and what did the Queen Mary say🤭

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you’re buying new and planning on keeping forever, there’s a lot to be said about getting a black paint MP. Mine is coming up on 22 years old but I bought it last year in brand new condition and just from use it’s already showing some brassing. I find the idea of owning a camera forever and, by your own usage, your camera developing a heavy patina to be quite charming. It tells a story. But if you’re concerned about resale or not interested in the brassing aspect, get a M6 or a silver chrome MP. They can be had more readily and for better prices and keep their condition much better. It just depends on your own personal interests, they’ll all take the same photo.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I recently came back to film, shooting a IIIc and now an M2. I looked at the whole range and decided that a good condition M2 was the best value. I didn’t want an M3 as I need the 35mm frame line, and I like the smooth metal of the M3 design better. It wasn’t cheap in the end as I bought one in excellent condition, but still cheaper than a second hand M4 or M6.
 

The main advantage of the M4 over the M3 is the built in take up spool. The M3 has a removable take up spool which you need to take out and thread the film into when loading. A bit fiddly but you get used to it. Ultimately i decided that I didn’t need this for the extra cost of the M4 and anyway I love the look of the silver M2, one of the most beautiful Ms IMHO.

I use an AstrHori meter which is great, tiny and fits into the flash socket. This was a bit of a revelation actually, and only cost £60 from Amazon.

I think if I get another film camera it will definitely be a new M6. I had an MP before and loved it but stupidly sold it. The main reasons are 1: The new M6 has the most advanced and developed components of the M film range; 2: The film rewind lever is more comfortable. I also like new things ;)
 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/24/2023 at 8:21 AM, Fotoklaus said:

It is funny that years ago you could order a MP a la carte and choose the M6 lever and rewind crank (or just one of them) on your MP. Now the are making  a new camera out of it.

 

         ...you are so right - I have a whole stash of Leica marketing bumpf dating back to the late-1980s, and it is remarkable how once-available options have pretty much disappeared, while 'new' and 'limited' iterations seem to spring forth at every opportunity. A personal favourite of mine was the signature option on the M's top plate.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

For me the choice was easy: black chrome M-A.

Brassed BP is cool, but when new it is too much of a jewel, and I was worried that I would be annoyed at getting scratches and fingerprints.

Silver chrome attracted unwanted attention around sketchy parts of the city in my own experience. Similar concerns with having obvious Leica branding on the camera.

Regarding meter, I like to use either incident or spot to check shadows and highlights. When I had M10-R briefly I ended up using an external Gossen or Sunny 16 instead, which felt a bit silly.

As a bonus M-A was the cheapest option.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...