Leica M6 in camera metering

[leiM6]

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I've been using the in-camera metering system, has anyone been using a light meter in addition ?

[leiM6]

I tend to over expose at times to meter for shadows as well.

[nitroplait]

3 hours ago, leiM6 said:

I've been using the in-camera metering system, has anyone been using a light meter in addition ?

Sounds a bit redundant given that a great part of the attraction (and price) of the M6 is attributed to it's meter.

Do you have problems?

It is not the easiest meter to use due to it's semi-spot character, but when you learn to visualise the spot's size relative to the frame it is quite useful, although perhaps not for a person new to film photography - but I don't know if that applies to you.

 

[a.noctilux]

6 hours ago, leiM6 said:

I tend to over expose at times to meter for shadows as well.

If you use negative film, it's popular "wisdom" doing this, but hardly 100% right

for slides so long ago in my first Kodachrome days, the "wisdom" was to underexpose to have good slides,

so I compare metering behaviors of different lightmeters (in camera or handheld) to find out that different meters don't give same settings.

Practicing can give answer, if not only way to learn.

...

In the end, to have consistency in slides, I used my brain for each picture and bracket when I can.

Lightmeter is only guide to "good" exposure and the brain is helpful aid to have good exposure.

 

[250swb]

8 hours ago, leiM6 said:

I've been using the in-camera metering system, has anyone been using a light meter in addition ?

Whether you use the camera's meter or use a separate meter you still need to know what to point it at for the reading.

In the case of your camera the meter is trying to average the scene so you need to find an average part of the scene to make a reading from. It is a good rough and ready approach to look for a mid tone and meter from that, but it's not strictly true since the meter responds to reflected light, not the tone itself. So if you are out in the countryside green grass will reflect an average value for a mid tone (18% grey) in daylight, in towns maybe a tarmac road will be ok, although some tarmac surfaces reflect more than others. So essentially without getting into anything complicated meter from something that is in the middle of the tonal range in front of you. If you meter for the shadows because that is where the important subject matter is you may end up over exposing the rest of the scene, and this should be compensated for when processing the film if it's conventional B&W chemistry. Or use a film that can take a lot of over exposure such as a C41 process film such as Ilford XP2 Super for B&W or for colour any other C41 process film like Kodak Portra 400, or CineStill, etc.

I should add that if you see a particular mid tone in your scene and you can't get near it then meter from something around you that is similarly lit, so it could be that you meter off the grass you are standing on, etc.

Edited October 21, 2022 by 250swb

[adli]

I use the in-camera meter in 90-95% of the situations when outside, but occasionally, I use a light meter to meter the incident light.

Incident light can give more accurate readings as it is not dependent on the attributes of the reflective materials in the scene.

 

 

[leiM6]

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appreciate this, thanks.

[Danner]

FWIW, I almost alway use an handheld meter (Gossen LunaPro) with my M6.  Although, the M6 meter serves me well when I do use it. 

I prefer the handheld meter so that I can quickly take a meter reading and set the camera shutter/aperture without bringing the M6 to eye level.

[BradS]

I have always found the built-in meter in both of my M6's to be extremely accurate. So, although I do have a Gossen handheld, I never use it with the M6...no need.

The built in meter is the big reason I (often) prefer my M6 to my M2.

[TomB_tx]

I've had various in-camera meters - averaging, center-weighted, small spot (M5), etc. They are all fine if you understand the metering pattern and how to interpret. I've had no problems with the M6 pattern, even with high-contrast reversal film. My favorite meter pattern is the M5, but I find the M6 finder arrows faster to use.

[lesarn]

If you need an external light meter, check out this little thing made in Canada. I bought one and it’s accurate enough for me.  https://www.reveni-labs.com/shop/p/lightmeter

[adli]

5 hours ago, lesarn said:

If you need an external light meter, check out this little thing made in Canada. I bought one and it’s accurate enough for me.  https://www.reveni-labs.com/shop/p/lightmeter

 

For a camera with in-camera meter, I would go for an light meter that easy can measure incident light. I can't see that this meter adds any value to the M6?