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1 hour ago, Dennis said:

Very Interesting! Glad you posted! For some reason, I prefer the first shot: darker shades and absence or water reflection. Plus "better" colors to my eyes...

Hi, Dennis, and thanks for the congrats and the comments. For a bit of fun I'll be posting a pair of B'n'W snaps rattled-off today taken in a similar vein at the end of this post for yet more comparison purposes...

I was surprised to see that the pola filter worked so much more effectively in regards the reflections on the surface of the river in the first picture as opposed to the second. Clearly the primary orientation of the reflected light-waves will be in the vertical plane but I didn't appreciate the filter would be quite so effective in the first nor quite so ineffective in the second snap! One of the wonderful things about the M-D is that I had no idea of how the pair of images looked until they were downloaded!

On which note on to today's experiments with the new lens and new pola filter...

First impression is that the lens is VERY sharp. Astonishingly so, in fact! I can't believe why some reviewers might consider it to be otherwise unless pre-production samples weren't quite fully sorted (or else I have misjudged my images so far?).If I have time tomorrow I will try to take along the 28 Elmarit ASPH as well as the TTA to do a side-by-side (or possibly one-after-another?) comparison test as many here will be familiar with the quality of the images produced by the Elmarit and so can make an informed judgement for themselves.

As mentioned in post #179 I had ordered a pair of filters for collection today and, as it was a bit sunny, chose to fit the circular polariser. Being in a hurry (I hate not having my lenses protected by a filter) I simply ordered the things from Jessops as they have a branch in central town and, even although they were only ordered on-line this morning, would have them for me by 11:30. The filters seem to be high quality but the main thing I had a slight concern about was the overall diameter of the filter ring. The supplied hood is a cinch-clip fit and I wasn't altogether sure that the hood/filter pairing would work at all in practice. Needn't have worried; the ring is narrower than the front ring of the lens so the hood slips over and past the filter and clamps onto the ring of the lens as usual. This wasn't so important with the UVa but IS important with the pola as the rotating-ring which holds the glass needs to be able to spin independently of the hood in order for it to be adjustable depending on camera orientation. As things stand the filter CAN be adjusted/rotated albeit being a bit fiddly simply because everything is so tiny!

And so to a couple of frames along the same lines as the two snaps of HMS Belfast. Both with the TTA on the M Monochrom. Circ. pola on both; 'Neutral' and then 90 degrees 'round to 'Working'. No pretence at having any artistic merit whatsoever (understatement!) and were taken purely to test the filter; it doesn't have an index mark for orientation(!) so I will have to fashion one myself. Not rocket science. Neither image has had any 'Levels' / 'Sharpen' adjustments and are SOOC;

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I hope I bagged some decent images but, for this post, I think these illustrate the point fairly well.

Philip.

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3 hours ago, pippy said:

First impression is that the lens is VERY sharp. Astonishingly so, in fact!

That's great to know. I think much sharper than current Summaron, right?

3 hours ago, pippy said:

If I have time tomorrow I will try to take along the 28 Elmarit ASPH as well as the TTA to do a side-by-side (or possibly one-after-another?) comparison test as many here will be familiar with the quality of the images produced by the Elmarit and so can make an informed judgement for themselves.

That's would very instructive for many of us. I don't have any 28mm (for M) now, but I would love both. The current Elmarit for general 28mm lens, I have it for one year, and it's outstanding. And the "cheap" TTA when traveling or one wants to keep it super light and small.
You know, such as TTA 28 and a CV 35/1.4 II MC ... Maybe the camera and both lenses barely pass 1,000 gr. How about that?

3 hours ago, pippy said:

Being in a hurry (I hate not having my lenses protected by a filter) I simply ordered the things from Jessops

You made me laugh here! 

3 hours ago, pippy said:

Both with the TTA on the M Monochrom. Circ. pola on both; 'Neutral' and then 90 degrees 'round to 'Working'.

IMHO, I prefer the first one for the scene and the type of light. It makes the image feel more natural. Regardless of the blown highlights. I like it as an SOOC file to work with.

.

 

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3 hours ago, pippy said:First impression is that the lens is VERY sharp. Astonishingly so, in fact! I can't believe why some reviewers might consider it to be otherwise unless pre-production samples weren't quite fully sorted (or else I have misjudged my images so far?).If I have time tomorrow I will try to take along the 28 Elmarit ASPH as well as the TTA to do a side-by-side (or possibly one-after-another?) comparison test as many here will be familiar with the quality of the images produced by the Elmarit and so can make an informed judgement for themselves.

That’s good to hear and I’ll be interested in your thoughts v the Elmarit. 
 

I managed to borrow a TT Artisans 28 5.6 lens from a friend who has one and I’ve been quite impressed with its abilities. And it’s cuteness too!

Haven’t managed to secure my own yet, but that will happen. 

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Hi Pippy

Just chiming in after getting my copy - not been able to do very much as its rather cold here atm. 🥶

I walked "round the block" a bit to take a few shots when my copy arrived and like you was very surprised re the sharpness. I'm also wondering if there were pre-production samples that weren't so good given the negative comments in some quarters.

IMHO although the lens apes the physical form of the Leica Summaron re-issue is isn't a copy of the optics at all. Yes there's vignetting but its really a tiny stopped-down Elmarit (maybe the v4 or v1 ASPH?) but with maybe a little bit of distortion. I wonder if some of the negatives were people assuming it would have that retro "character" of the Summaron?

What it gives me is a (cheap) silver chrome brass-bodied lens that when mounted on the M9M allows me to "pocket" the camera in a coat and to snap away without the critical focussing of wider apertures like my Summicron ASPH v2.

I will chase down a 37-39 step up ring and then will have a tiny 28-50-90 39mm set (50 Cron v4 chrome and 90 MEM chrome) which can share the Elmar hood (subject to testing on the 28). I would agree on comments re the paint finish of the hood 'though - I lost a bit of edge paint from the brass just taking it out of a pocket (maybe it brushed against the plastic zip 😳)...

Quick SOOC Jpegs below- all wide open at 5.6 I think..

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Edited by NigelG
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1 hour ago, Dennis said:

That's great to know. I think much sharper than current Summaron, right?

That's would very instructive for many of us. I don't have any 28mm (for M) now, but I would love both. The current Elmarit for general 28mm lens, I have it for one year, and it's outstanding. And the "cheap" TTA when traveling or one wants to keep it super light and small.
You know, such as TTA 28 and a CV 35/1.4 II MC ... Maybe the camera and both lenses barely pass 1,000 gr. How about that?

IMHO, I prefer the first one for the scene and the type of light. It makes the image feel more natural. Regardless of the blown highlights. I like it as an SOOC file to work with.

 

Taking your points in order, Dennis;

I haven't had a Summaron - either vintage or re-working - to try so, unfortunately, cannot comment on that aspect of its performance.

 

Weights;

My 28mm Elmarit ASPH is v1 (I preferred the far smaller hood) and the weights (according to my digital scales) for that lens, the TTA and the M Monochrom are as follows;

Elmarit : Lens = 179g / Rear cap = 11g / Leitz UVa Filter (:D) = 12g / Hood (:lol:) = 9g. Total as used 9by me (:P) = 211g. By you with rear cap? = 190g

TTA : Lens 152g / Rear cap = 44g (it's Brass!) / Jessops UVa Filter = 5g / Hood = 41g (it's Brass!). Total 01 = 242g. By you with Leica Plastic Rear Cap = 163g.

The M Monochrom (with battery and card but no strap) = 595g.

Total as used by you (with a Monochrom and a Leica plastic rear swapped for the brass cap), therefore, equals 948g.

 

I know exactly what you mean about the first image feeling more natural....because it is! :) There's a very good argument for using 'Dramatic Skies' and they can be very effective when used in their 'proper place' - just ask Ansel Adams next time you meet-up - and as long as they aren't done to death in every single photograph. IMO, of course.

As far as the blown highlights are concerned (not that I'm being defensive...LOL!); having now had a very brief sampling of the DNG file they are only just 'gone' and the deepest shadows are only just holding detail. In the area with no texture which I tried (circular window below clock-face and above pediment) there is only a certain section of the circle which reads 255 - much of it hovers around the 251-253 zone - and the deepest blacks (bottom left corner) have a low-point of 5 so had I given any less exposure to retain such tone in the tiny amount of detail in the window would result in the road in the foreground would be lost which exchange, IMO, would be a poor one. Not that I gave the exposure of the snap all that much careful consideration at the time......after all; it was always going to be just a test snap!

Philip.

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1 hour ago, NigelG said:

I walked "round the block" a bit to take a few shots when my copy arrived and like you was very surprised re the sharpness. I'm also wondering if there were pre-production samples that weren't so good given the negative comments in some quarters.

IMHO although the lens apes the physical form of the Leica Summaron re-issue is isn't a copy of the optics at all. Yes there's vignetting but its really a tiny stopped-down Elmarit (maybe the v4 or v1 ASPH?) but with maybe a little bit of distortion. I wonder if some of the negatives were people assuming it would have that retro "character" of the Summaron?

What it gives me is a (cheap) silver chrome brass-bodied lens that when mounted on the M9M allows me to "pocket" the camera in a coat and to snap away without the critical focussing of wider apertures like my Summicron ASPH v2.

I will chase down a 37-39 step up ring and then will have a tiny 28-50-90 39mm set (50 Cron v4 chrome and 90 MEM chrome) which can share the Elmar hood (subject to testing on the 28). I would agree on comments re the paint finish of the hood 'though - I lost a bit of edge paint from the brass just taking it out of a pocket (maybe it brushed against the plastic zip 😳)...

Quick SOOC Jpegs below- all wide open at 5.6 I think..

Yes; the optical formula as we know is not the same as the original nor the recent Summaron release so I suppose we shouldn't be surprised if it renders in a different manner. I haven't really examined all the test-images but I can't say I've noticed much vignetting at all. In fact I hadn't even thought about it because I hadn't seen any! Perhaps my subject-matter - and the fact that I was using a Pola - clouded this aspect of the performance? I'll have a better look tomorrow.

I also haven't noticed any barrel nor pincushion distortion. Once more I'll have a better look tomorrow...

It really does make for a tiny package! The hood as supplied is nice but I think for the long-term I'll pick up a reverse-conical vented effort. I had no issues about the hood moving out of position at all but for the way I carry my 'shooting' camera a cinch-clip-on hood is not a good idea...

 

Just for fits'n'giggles I'll post a few things taken at the same time as the earlier shots to give an idea of sharpness. Full-frame at 72dpi then two 100% crops; first from rougly central then second from bottom-left corner. There is some softening of the image at the very corner but it's hardly a disaster IMO. Again; all images are SOOC. I don't think I even did the 'spotting' thing...and, as usual, images here are softer than 'reality'!

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Philip.

 

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18 minutes ago, pippy said:

Weights;

My 28mm Elmarit ASPH is v1 (I preferred the far smaller hood) and the weights (according to my digital scales) for that lens, the TTA and the M Monochrom are as follows;

Elmarit : Lens = 179g / Rear cap = 11g / Leitz UVa Filter (:D) = 12g / Hood (:lol:) = 9g. Total as used 9by me (:P) = 211g. By you with rear cap? = 190g

TTA : Lens 152g / Rear cap = 44g (it's Brass!) / Jessops UVa Filter = 5g / Hood = 41g (it's Brass!). Total 01 = 242g. By you with Leica Plastic Rear Cap = 163g.

The M Monochrom (with battery and card but no strap) = 595g.

Total as used by you (with a Monochrom and a Leica plastic rear swapped for the brass cap), therefore, equals 948g.

I see you made the math 🙂 Impressive tiny weight.

20 minutes ago, pippy said:

after all; it was always going to be just a test snap!

And it's a keeper. Plus very instructive. Good job Phillip

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2 minutes ago, Dennis said:

I see you made the math 🙂 Impressive tiny weight...

The whole shooting-match also fits in to a very small bag!

The one I had today(*) measures (externally) only 260mm x 200mm x 150mm yet it contained the Monochrom with the Elmarit fitted; the M-D with my 35mm Summilux fitted; the 28 TTA; my '53 50mm f1.5 Summarit and my 75mm Summarit. All the lenses had filters and hoods fitted. I also had spare batteries, notebook, phone etc...etc...etc...and the bag was still not full!

Philip.

* A s/h Billingham f5.6 in their usual khaki (and not Olive and which was produced between 1991 and 1996) which I only received on Saturday so today was a 'test-day' for the bag, too;

https://billingham.co.uk/products/f5-6-camera-bag

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Here are some samples of the 28mm TTartison on the M11

it is very good for the price...

 

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I didn't have a Leica lens handy, but here is a comparison to 21SEM, what is a better lens..

28mm f 5.6

 

21 SEM at 3.4

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Yes re the optical formula it’s obviously not similar to the Summaron  - I was thinking that the external appearance might have “thrown” people who thought it would render similarly and were then disappointed...

I haven’t tested it re flare but that’s not usually a big concern for me.

I think there is some distortion but this is not a lens I’ll be using to shoot anything critical - it’s a “knockabout” alternative to my Summicron ASPH v2 - so I’m not too bothered.

Bottom line is it’s decently made, cheap, tiny and almost turns my M9M into my GR II 🙄

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Just a little bit more (honestly) before I pack-away yesterday's test pics for good.

I've looked for any traces of vignetting and distortion in my images and can't see anything to complain about at all. What did I do 'Right'?...Here is one typical frame which should show examples of both - if present - but these aberrations are notable by their absence. I've also dropped a 'virtual' ruler on many of the (Dutch-Angle) horizontals / verticals and they are all ram-rod straight;

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FWIW the lens-profile is set to that of the 28mm f2.8 Elmarit v3; don't know if that had any effect on dialling-out any would-be issues or not from the end-result. I'd love to do a 'No-Profile' and as-shot comparison but it looks like I'm not going to have a chance for any snapping-fun today as my next work-project is arriving on the 'morrow and, as it's going to be a biggie (as in three or four months), I must spend today in studio-preparation and so on.

Hopefully the weather this coming weekend will allow for a bit more TTA play-time?...

Philip.

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17 hours ago, Photoworks said:

Here are some samples of the 28mm TTartison on the M11

it is very good for the price...

 

 

I didn't have a Leica lens handy, but here is a comparison to 21SEM, what is a better lens..

28mm f 5.6

 

21 SEM at 3.4

While the flare is very bad in the first pic - just a veiling mess - to be fair to the TT lens the angle is not the same.  Nor is the distance from camera to subject - 28mm vs 21mm but filling the same frame.  But if the lighting IS the same in both, then the TT is bad w re. to flare.

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1 hour ago, Huss said:

...if the lighting IS the same in both, then the TT is bad w re. to flare...

I've no idea why there is so much veiling flare in that snap. I tried to introduce flare various times - both with the sun just outside and just inside the picture area - during my test 'thing' yesterday and the only time I succeeded was when the very bright late afternoon sun was well inside the frame and even then the flare only really affected the area immediately surrounding the sun.

Here is an example. First-off is a crop from the following image. There is a slight amount of flare which is affecting the contrast on the top-right-hand area of the image...

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...which is hardly surprising when the position of the exceptionally bright sun is taken into account;

For anything less than this amount of exceptional sunlight there was never any issues whatsoever.

I was using a coated filter and the supplied lenshood which certainly might have helped with those frames when the sun was outside the picture area but considering how well the lens coped with practically everything I tried I'd really like to know why the veiling flare in the 5th image in Photoworks' post is so terrible. Most odd.

Philip.

 

 

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I received the lens a few days ago, and can readily cause veiling flare even indoors if the light source is just outside a top corner of the frame. Light source directly above doesn't seem flare prone.

Looking at the lens mount from the rear, that's a lot of flat bright brass facing the sensor. That might be part of the cause of flare, as Leica made a strong point that the back of the Summarit series had blackened these areas to reduce flare. I think I'll try to attach a flat-black paper shield to that back face and see what effect it has.

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46 minutes ago, TomB_tx said:

I received the lens a few days ago, and can readily cause veiling flare even indoors if the light source is just outside a top corner of the frame. Light source directly above doesn't seem flare prone...

This is all very strange.

Could you post any images which show the flare, Tom, and also, if possible, a second snap pulled back a bit showing the relative positions of the subject and light-source(s)?

Having read your post I went around a few rooms in the house where there are different styles of light-sources in different situations and 'placed' (photographically speaking) in different areas outside and inside the frame and I STILL can't excite any flare in any of the two-dozen or so images I shot. I'd post some of them but, then again, there's nothing to see so not really much point!

The only way I can get the thing to mis-behave at all is by removing the lens-hood which, of course, is simply asking for trouble.

Philip.

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Hang on a mo'...

Can I ask Huss, Photoworks and Tom if they use / were using the hood as supplied in the box when they had / have flare issues?

I've just listened / watched once more to Matt Osborne's review and at the 01:43 mark he states; "Being a pre-release lens this lens was supplied to me without a lens-hood but the final lens does come with a solid-brass vintage style hood..."...and, unsurprisingly as he had no hood, subsequently he went on to experience considerable amounts of flare!

This little detail might explain a great deal of what has been typed here over the past few weeks...

Philip.

EDIT : Mr. Osborne also noted in the review that the lens does have some vignetting at f5.6 but that it's gone by f8. As I never shot any of my test snaps wide-open that would also explain why I had no issues with any vignetting.

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Pippy, I do not have this lens but I am following this thread out of curiosity because I do like to shoot back lit subjects, and so far have not seen this lens handle it well.  The hardest test is if the bright light source is just out of image.  Tom's comments of being easily able to cause veiling flare indoors is striking!  I've never been able to do that with any lens I have!

Your flare shot is also indoors.  What was the light source?

And just to show how shallow I am, if this lens was made in black finish (similar to the limited edition black Summaron), I'd ignore my criticisms and cave in a second...

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1 hour ago, pippy said:

This is all very strange.

Could you post any images which show the flare, Tom, and also, if possible, a second snap pulled back a bit showing the relative positions of the subject and light-source(s)?

Having read your post I went around a few rooms in the house where there are different styles of light-sources in different situations and 'placed' (photographically speaking) in different areas outside and inside the frame and I STILL can't excite any flare in any of the two-dozen or so images I shot. I'd post some of them but, then again, there's nothing to see so not really much point!

The only way I can get the thing to mis-behave at all is by removing the lens-hood which, of course, is simply asking for trouble.

Philip.

OK - some examples. These were just quick OOC jpgs taken with live view trying to excite flare. The TTA 28 had the rectangular hood in place. First I moved the framing around until the flare was as bad as it could be:

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Then I shifted the view to put the light source more centered overhead:

Then here's the frame shifted to show the bright overhead light location (letting the highlights blow):

I don't have any other 28s for an M to compare, but here's a shot with a VC Nokton 35 II @ 1.4, again flare as bad as I could make it:

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5 hours ago, TomB_tx said:

OK - some examples. These were just quick OOC jpgs taken with live view trying to excite flare. The TTA 28 had the rectangular hood in place. First I moved the framing around until the flare was as bad as it could be:

Then I shifted the view to put the light source more centered overhead:

Then here's the frame shifted to show the bright overhead light location (letting the highlights blow):

I don't have any other 28s for an M to compare, but here's a shot with a VC Nokton 35 II @ 1.4, again flare as bad as I could make it:

Thanks for that Tom, you've cured my desire for one!  (Unless they release it in black..)

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