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Just now, Studienkamera said:

Any update on this, @mmanda? Did Imaging by Design service your IIIb?

Not yet. I’m still, waiting  on a quote from them. It’s been there since April 5!
 

I’ll have to call again and find out what’s going on.  

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1 minute ago, mmanda said:

Not yet. I’m still, waiting  on a quote from them. It’s been there since April 5!

Thank you. It seems the few technicians in the world who still can service these cameras are completely overwhelmed with work. Please keep us updated.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pictures taken with a Leica IIIf

Doing research on early Leica photography can be combined very well with using a screw mount Leica.
These are relatively recent pictures, maybe two years ago.
For the picture of the doll I used the Nooky so as to be able to come closer.

I scanned the negatives with a half-frame digital SLR.
The negatives are not exactly in the middle of the perforations of the 35mm film.
The negatives 'sink' a millimeter or so in the lower perforations.
By cropping in Photoshop I can pretend that everything is fine.
But, of course, I do loose part of the negative in this way.

Please tell me if this subject is off-topic here.

Roland  

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5 hours ago, Roland Zwiers said:

The negatives are not exactly in the middle of the perforations of the 35mm film.
The negatives 'sink' a millimeter or so in the lower perforations.

Some people like to make a small spacer out of cardboard or metal to place below the film canister under the bottom plate, to improve the film alignment. Or I suppose you could reload your film into FILCA resusable cartridges which have the spacing the camera expects.

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1 hour ago, qqphot said:

Some people like to make a small spacer out of cardboard or metal to place below the film canister under the bottom plate, to improve the film alignment. Or I suppose you could reload your film into FILCA resusable cartridges which have the spacing the camera expects.

Thank you!

I didn't know this was a common probl;em.

Using FILCA is an excellent idea!

I will try to find some.

 

Roland

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It can happen with FILCA cassettes as well though it shouldn’t, but might do with IXMOO cassettes as they are a little shorter than FILCA ones, I use them all the time. I quite like the sprocket holes showing in the edge of the pictures as I print the whole negative including the margins. If you look at some of Cartier Bresson’s well known pictures you see the sprocket holes showing in the pictures. This picture was taken with Rollei Infrared film so was in a commercial standard cassette.

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Edited by Pyrogallol
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7 hours ago, Pyrogallol said:

It can happen with FILCA cassettes as well though it shouldn’t, but might do with IXMOO cassettes as they are a little shorter than FILCA ones, I use them all the time. I quite like the sprocket holes showing in the edge of the pictures as I print the whole negative including the margins. If you look at some of Cartier Bresson’s well known pictures you see the sprocket holes showing in the pictures. This picture was taken with Rollei Infrared film so was in a commercial standard cassette.

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Hello Pyrogallol,

Thank you.
This is exactly what is the case with my Leica IIIf and Leica IIIg negatives.
The negative sinks through the perforations and is not exactly horizontal.
On the left side of your print the image just touches the perforations, on the right side it sinks by about one millimeter.
I must invest time and effort in learning how to use the FILCA cassettes.

BTW For the landscape pitures I used semi-infrared film with an 8x redfliter.

Roland 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/17/2023 at 9:45 PM, Studienkamera said:

Thank you. It seems the few technicians in the world who still can service these cameras are completely overwhelmed with work. Please keep us updated.

I finally heard back. Needs a new mirror and CLA.  Lens needs some TLC too. It does have some fungus, they said if they can’t clean it up to be usable there’ll be no charge. All up costing about $800 AUD  it’s all labor and a $25 part.  The Tech said it’s a lovely camera and worth the repair. No idea when I’ll get it back. 
 

in the meantime I have a couple rolls of HP5 in the fridge, a hotshoe light meter in the post and been watching many Barnack how to YouTube clips.  
 

The first roll I’ll ask the repair place to load for me.  That way I’ll hopefully get to have some actual photos from my first roll without stuffing up loading the film! 

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15 minutes ago, mmanda said:

I finally heard back. Needs a new mirror and CLA.  Lens needs some TLC too. It does have some fungus, they said if they can’t clean it up to be usable there’ll be no charge. All up costing about $800 AUD  it’s all labor and a $25 part.  The Tech said it’s a lovely camera and worth the repair. No idea when I’ll get it back. 

Thanks for the update. That sounds reasonable to me. I am sure you can enjoy the camera for many years after the service. The rangefinder should have much better contrast afterwards. I will drop off my II as well.

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Roland Zwiers:-    I found this topic which is quite instructive " photrio.com/forum/threads/leica-filca-and-ixmoo-reloadable-film cassettes-186364/ ". Had to type this in by hand; Leica Forum does not like its structure.  As an addition the little knob, which opens the cassette when the baseplate is locked, on the IXMOO is chromium plated and that on the FILCA is either black or plain brass (wear?).

Edited by Jerry Attrik
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  • 4 weeks later...

I received my Leica IIIc back after CLA. Everything feels very smooth now. No comparison to before. Already bought some new films.

 

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On 7/5/2023 at 6:42 AM, mmanda said:

The first roll I’ll ask the repair place to load for me.  That way I’ll hopefully get to have some actual photos from my first roll without stuffing up loading the film! 

Loading the camera isn't rocket science! The important thing to note is trimming the film leader. Once trimmed, there are several ways to load the film into the camera. Just take your time. and when the baseplate is reattached, take the slack out of the film before shooting, watch to ensure the rewind knob rotates when advancing the film, all should be good. I'd encourage you to prepare a sacrificial roll to get everything down pat...yes it wastes a roll (I'd use cheap expired film for this), but you quickly develop the technique which works best for you so you don't waste actual shots. And don't forget to remove the lens cap before shooting....a common issue for new rangefinder users. Good luck and enjoy your camera.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 7/30/2023 at 10:44 PM, spydrxx said:

Loading the camera isn't rocket science! The important thing to note is trimming the film leader. Once trimmed, there are several ways to load the film into the camera. Just take your time. and when the baseplate is reattached, take the slack out of the film before shooting, watch to ensure the rewind knob rotates when advancing the film, all should be good. I'd encourage you to prepare a sacrificial roll to get everything down pat...yes it wastes a roll (I'd use cheap expired film for this), but you quickly develop the technique which works best for you so you don't waste actual shots. And don't forget to remove the lens cap before shooting....a common issue for new rangefinder users. Good luck and enjoy your camera.

Lucky I did ask them to load the first roll for me. The spool was getting stuck in the camera and further adjustments were required whilst I waited.  I have an aftermarket spool it seems, it’s ok now after some grinding it pops right out as it should!
 

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Ok first roll back from processing. I’m not sure what to make of this at all,  more practice needed.  
 

Here’s a shot unedited (from me anyways). 
 

 

Edited by mmanda
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Repainted and rechromed 111 with 40mm Heliar. The blacks suit each other.

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In a similar vein. I just picked up a Voigtlander 21mm f/4 Color-Skopar. The fact that today I can still attach it to a camera body first manufactured in 1929 is pretty neat.

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