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36 minutes ago, wlaidlaw said:

I wonder if the metal might be "German Silver". This is an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc but no actual silver. It was used for example to make the radiator surrounds on vintage Bentley cars from the Cricklewood factory era and 1920's Rolls Royce and other upmarket cars. It does polish to look like silver but does not get the ugly black tarnish as silver does if not polished regularly but it just goes dull looking. It is notoriously difficult to paint, as the paint only sticks to the oxide layer, which is mechanically very weak. 

Wilson

Wilson, I will look up any reference material I might have. Dallmeyer's techniques back then were a mixture of late 19th and early 20th Century.

William 

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William, 

Cupro-Nickel alloy was exported to the UK as far back as the 17th century from China, when it was known as "Paktong White Copper" although its true composition as an alloy of Copper and Nickel was not known until the early 19th century. German silver was in common usage from the mid 19th century onwards, so it would certainly have been known to Dallmeyer, Grubb Parsons and others. It is a relatively robust material, which might dent but not break but importantly from a lens makers POV, corrosion resistant. Aluminium was a quite expensive material until the 1920's when production techniques developed for the aircraft industry in WW1 became widespread. The corrosion resistant Duralumin was not in common usage until the 1930's, developed in secret by the Germans just prior WW1, it was only made in Germany by Dürener Metallwerke until the mid 1920's. 

Wilson

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21 minutes ago, wlaidlaw said:

Cupro-Nickel alloy was exported to the UK as far back as the 17th century from China, when it was known as "Paktong White Copper" although its true composition as an alloy of Copper and Nickel was not known until the early 19th century. German silver was in common usage from the mid 19th century onwards, so it would certainly have been known to Dallmeyer, Grubb Parsons and others. It is a relatively robust material, which might dent but not break but importantly from a lens makers POV, corrosion resistant. Aluminium was a quite expensive material until the 1920's when production techniques developed for the aircraft industry in WW1 became widespread. The corrosion resistant Duralumin was not in common usage until the 1930's, developed in secret by the Germans just prior WW1, it was only made in Germany by Dürener Metallwerke until the mid 1920's.

Woodwind instruments make use of this for their keys - my father was a woodwind instrument repairer for a while and referred to it as "Nickel Silver". It is corrosion resistant and can be rebent if knocked, silver soldered and was a good choice and cheaper than silver which was also used occasionally, and quite unlike some cheaper instruments which used a zinc allow which could break irrepairably. Nickel Silver is not dramatically heavy but I would have thought aluminium would have been used for lenses due to its lighter weight.

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1 hour ago, wlaidlaw said:

William, 

Cupro-Nickel alloy was exported to the UK as far back as the 17th century from China, when it was known as "Paktong White Copper" although its true composition as an alloy of Copper and Nickel was not known until the early 19th century. German silver was in common usage from the mid 19th century onwards, so it would certainly have been known to Dallmeyer, Grubb Parsons and others. It is a relatively robust material, which might dent but not break but importantly from a lens makers POV, corrosion resistant. Aluminium was a quite expensive material until the 1920's when production techniques developed for the aircraft industry in WW1 became widespread. The corrosion resistant Duralumin was not in common usage until the 1930's, developed in secret by the Germans just prior WW1, it was only made in Germany by Dürener Metallwerke until the mid 1920's. 

Wilson

To see here, Wilson. Dallmeyer was using aluminium mounts by 1910 at least, but I suspect they had used it since the 1890s. I have a Grubb aluminium lens from c 1895. The price of aluminium had been falling since the 1880s. The softness comes from the aluminium and 'threading' is always an issue. The weight in the 12 inch lens ( 3 1/2 lbs)comes from the long barrel which is probably brass. My aluminium Grubb lens is considerably lighter than its brass equivalents. 

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William 

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Hello Everybody,

A 5 cent "nickel" weighing 5 grams & measuring 21.2mm wide, made of an alloy of 75% copper & 25% nickel, began production in the USofA in 1866.

This is a variety of an alloy of "nickel silver" that was already commonly used for a variety of things in the USofA, at that time. It was/is called "nickel silver" because it sort of looks like silver. Sometimes. Even tho there is NO silver in it.

The 5 cent nickel of today, with different designs on the front & on the back, is still the same 5 grams of 75% copper & 25% nickel & it is still 21.2mm wide.

Best Regards,

Michael

 

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I promise I will never complain again about the weight of my R9, motor drive and APO 280/f4 Telyt-R. 

Wilson

 

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Altix nb

Yours sincerely

Thomas

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This set cam to me unexpectedly: Nikkormat EL with seven Nikon lenses and one Soligor lens. Seems to work fine.

Lex

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Edited by sandro
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From the same source (diseased relative) came this Canon EOS 300, less interesting than the Nikkormat. But it also works fine after several years without being used.

Lex

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1 hour ago, sandro said:

This set cam to me unexpectedly: Nikkormat EL with seven Nikon lenses and one Soligor lens. Seems to work fine.

Lex

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Enjoy! It looks like a great set.

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1 hour ago, 250swb said:

Enjoy! It looks like a great set.

Not sure about the light meter of the Nikkormat though. Perhaps it's the battery, which must have been in the camera for ages, or something worse in the metering system. It seems to give much too positive values; I'll try to get another battery first and see what happens. I just found out I wasn't aware of the Nikon thing that after mounting a lens on the camera you have to turn the aperture ring to the smallest opening, then to the highest opening, before using it. My problem may be solved, also because the battery still is operating as it should.

Lex

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19 hours ago, sandro said:

This set cam to me unexpectedly: Nikkormat EL with seven Nikon lenses and one Soligor lens. Seems to work fine.

Lex

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Don't forget to set the aperture to f/5.6 before mounting or dismounting.

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3 minutes ago, spydrxx said:

Don't forget to set the aperture to f/5.6 before mounting or dismounting.

I remembered the f 5.6 rule to mount or dismount a lens, but I was not aware that after mounting a lens on the body, you should turn the aperture ring to the largest opening and then to the smallest, before using it. Still, the meter seems to be off and indicate values (and thereby steer the shutter time) that are too optimistic, resulting in underexposed images. I will adjust the ISO setting and check the meter results with my M6 and R4 and a handheld meter.

Lex

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The Instruction manual of my Nikkormat EL explains this rule, which I had not been reading when I first used the camera. Translated it reads: "Indication fot the largest opening. To measure at fully open aperture with different lenses with different maximum apertures, set the meter of the Nikkormat EL to the largest aperture of the lens. This must be repeated each time the lens is changed. Turn the aperture ring to its largest aperture (largest F/number), and then completely in the other direction. This adapts the light meter to the lens used."

The battery is ok (terrible position to replace a battery, by the way) and I am curious about the results of the film I shot yesterday.

Lex

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7 hours ago, sandro said:

The Instruction manual of my Nikkormat EL explains this rule......"Indication fot the largest opening. To measure at fully open aperture with different lenses with different maximum apertures, set the meter of the Nikkormat EL to the largest aperture of the lens. This must be repeated each time the lens is changed. Turn the aperture ring to its largest aperture (largest F/number), and then completely in the other direction. This adapts the light meter to the lens used."...

Yes; this system was neccessary to 'calibrate' the TTL metering to the Max. Ap. of the lens being used. As it was a feature on all my Nikon F FTn and Nikon F2 cameras the muscle-memory became absolutely second-nature - even after I bought some newer Nikons which were from the AI generation - AI standing for 'Automatic Indexing'. of the lens.

For a while after AI was introduced it was possible to use 'Non-AI' lenses on an AI body (FM; FE. Nikkormat FT3) because there was a button around the body-side lens mount which, when depressed, unloked the rotating AI tab. If this was not done then the centre-mounted aperture indexing 'Claw' of the older lenses would foul on the tab.

Later, however, the newer bodies (FM-2; FE-2 etc...) had a non-moveable tab and it was neccessary either to use only newer (AI) lenses or else remove the 'Claw' from the older ones.

Philip.

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Now the Nikkormat EL works fine, since I have understood how to calibrate the meter for each lens, as I described in # 1042. The Micro-Nikkor-P.C. 3.5/55mm (from 1973-75) shows what it is made for.

Lex

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Edited by sandro
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Thornton Pickard Imperial

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yours sincerely
Thomas

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"Holy shit, he sold my fine aviator's watch just to buy this stuff!"

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