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12 hours ago, erudolph said:

Herr Barnack, how do the two lenses compare if you stop your f/1 down to f/1.2?

I have not specifically hunted down and studied images made with the new f/1.2 Noctilux - but based on the ones I have seen, the in focus areas seem to be a bit sharper than the in focus areas produced by my f/1.0 Noctilux.  The f/1.2 lens also appears to have less exposure vignetting than the f/1.0. 

The f/1.0 Noctilux can be enigmatic at times - shooting at f/1.0 produces unexpected surprises, depending on lighting, subject color and other factors.  This lens takes a fair amount of work to get to know it and to produce predictable and consistent results, at least in my experience.

The f/1.2 Noctilux seems to be more predictable and a bit sharper than the f/1.0 version, based on what I have read and seen.  The f/0.95 50mm Noctilux seems to be more predictable and somewhat sharper than the f/1.2 version.  This is based on what I have seen produced by all three lenses both on this forum and in the pages of LFI magazine.

The f/1.0 Noctilux produces a more nostalgic, old school rendering while the f/0.95 produces a more modern, technical rendering.  The new f/1.2 falls somewhere between the two, leaning a bit more toward the f/0.95 side of the continuum. 

I don't think it's possible to go wrong with any of the three 50mm Noctilux lenses.  The choice comes down to whether you want a more artistic rendering, a more technical rendering or somewhere in between. 

Edited by Herr Barnack
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jakontil

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50 noct 1.2 on cinestill 800t
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Leica M6. Leica 50mm f1.2 Noctilux lens.  Tri-X rated at 800, developed 7:45 in XTOL stock with added Rodinal 1:100. 20 degrees Celsius. 

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I know, I know, it’s a cat picture. Still, I think it does a good job showing how the lens performs wide open near minimum focus distance. It is surprisingly (to me) sharp right at the center of the field, but resolution falls off rather dramatically as you move even a small distance from the center. In this case I got around the “problem” by putting the cat’s near eye close to the center of the frame, then cropping for the composition I wanted.

One quirk I have noticed when shooting the lens wide open is that astigmatism is much worse 1/3rd of the way to the edge of the frame than it is at the actual edge of the frame. So, center of the frame can look quite good, but if you compose using an off-center subject you may want to stop down to f/2 or more. Of course, that kind of defeats the point of spending all that money on a “character” lens. So, either choose compositions with a central subject, or expect a somewhat soft subject, or do as I did with the sample provided and shoot with your subject in the center and recompose in post by cropping a bit.

 

Edited by Jared
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Ich mag die Fotos. Vielen Dank. Tolles Rendering. Es sieht aber so aus als passe der Fokus nicht 100 Prozent. Ich denke da liegt ein Frontfokus vor.

Da wo der Fokuspunkt liegt ist es erstaunlich gut. Nicht super scharf aber viel besser als es in den meisten Tests daher kommt.

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Am 19.3.2021 um 19:43 schrieb Sid Bolan:

 Jono Slack's review suggested that, at 1.2, nothing is quite sharp, a view that seems to be supported by most of the sample images I've seen. Is everyone having the some experience?

Not true. Wozo lens is not calibrated well to his camera. i shot the lens on a SL2s and got much sharper results wide open.

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17 hours ago, Elderin said:

Not true. Wozo lens is not calibrated well to his camera. i shot the lens on a SL2s and got much sharper results wide open.

As I can see in many of the excellent photos here, JCR33's street smoker in particular. In the end I opted for the Noctilux f1.0 v.3. I love everything about it, excepting its size and weight, but I think I would have been just as happy with the rereleased f1.2

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M10-R, f/8

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Noctilux 1.2 with M11, not sure how i shot it but likely f2-2.8

this lens behave in according what herr barnack stated, at 1.2 it is oke sharp without biting and not lacking, stop down and it’s different level of sharpness.. i love how the focus fall off react quickly, making this lens for portrait is my preference lens

0.95 definitely most predictable out of noctilux lines, as predictable as the lux asph i dare to say

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The f1.2 does some pretty weird stuff when shot wide open on a sunny day, especially with a busy scene. I took this wide open in Washington Square Park yesterday. I've played with the highlights and shadows and corrected most of the fringing in Lightroom Classic, but it still looks like an acid trip (in a way I'm not sure I appreciate in this instance):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeremybunting/52360848566/in/album-72177720301810006/

The solution is simple. Stopping down to the f2.8-4 range makes the lens behave itself, while still retaining some (but not all) of the psychedelic Noctilux magic. This I believe was taken at f4. I've still got swirly leaves behind my subject, but the people in the scene have lost their halos:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeremybunting/52360848896/in/album-72177720301810006/

 

Edited by Jeremy Bunting
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I made a mistake of going through this whole thread.  Hooked does not fully describe it.  Some questions. I tried to find an example but may have missed it. How does the new version of the f/1.2 compare with summilux asph f/1.4 at f/1.4? I ask because I am trying to keep to three lenses and so I don’t want two 50’s. What about cropping at wide open?  Do you loose much?  Thanks for your help. 

Edited by Franka373
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51 minutes ago, Franka373 said:

I made a mistake of going through this whole thread.  Hooked does not fully describe it.  One question. I tried to find an example but may have missed it. How does the new version of the f/1.2 compare with summilux asph f/1.4 at f/1.4? I ask because I am trying to keep to three lenses and so I don’t want two 50’s. Thanks for your help. 

Hm, I can't compare the 50 f1.2 it to the 50 'lux, but it's quite a bit softer than my 35 'lux, which is pretty much tack sharp wide open at the focus point across the entire frame. My only other 50 is the APO 'Cron, which is about as far from the f1.2 as you can get. 

I probably would not want the Noctilux f1.2 to be my only 50mm lens unless I didn't shoot 50 very often (which I do). It's extremely flattering for portraits and you can do some very fun dreamy street photography with it, but it doesn't really start to clean up until f2.8-4, and even then, it's definitely not APO (or even 'Lux) sharp.

Here's a shot taken with my APO 50 that's relatively similar in terms of composition and light to the photo in my post (#362) above. The Noctilux mangled it. It's a fun rendering but it makes my eyes hurt if I look at it too long. Not a problem for the APO 50 (below).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeremybunting/52333368287/in/dateposted-public/

With respect to cropping wide open, I'm not sure what you mean by "lose much," but one thing to note is that significant portions of the frame are soft when the lens is wide open, so the portion of the frame you want to crop down to (unless it's dead center) might not be as sharp as you were hoping, even if your focus was correct.

Here's an example, shot wide open with focus at infinity. The bricks in the building to the right are pretty sharp in the middle of the frame, but as you follow them along further out towards the edge of the frame, they get softer. This is more obvious when the photo is viewed at larger sizes, of course, but if you view on Flickr and zoom in it should be obvious.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeremybunting/52361163984/in/album-72177720301810006/

 

Edited by Jeremy Bunting
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4 hours ago, Jeremy Bunting said:

Hm, I can't compare the 50 f1.2 it to the 50 'lux, but it's quite a bit softer than my 35 'lux, which is pretty much tack sharp wide open at the focus point across the entire frame. My only other 50 is the APO 'Cron, which is about as far from the f1.2 as you can get. 

I probably would not want the Noctilux f1.2 to be my only 50mm lens unless I didn't shoot 50 very often (which I do). It's extremely flattering for portraits and you can do some very fun dreamy street photography with it, but it doesn't really start to clean up until f2.8-4, and even then, it's definitely not APO (or even 'Lux) sharp.

Here's a shot taken with my APO 50 that's relatively similar in terms of composition and light to the photo in my post (#362) above. The Noctilux mangled it. It's a fun rendering but it makes my eyes hurt if I look at it too long. Not a problem for the APO 50 (below).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeremybunting/52333368287/in/dateposted-public/

With respect to cropping wide open, I'm not sure what you mean by "lose much," but one thing to note is that significant portions of the frame are soft when the lens is wide open, so the portion of the frame you want to crop down to (unless it's dead center) might not be as sharp as you were hoping, even if your focus was correct.

Here's an example, shot wide open with focus at infinity. The bricks in the building to the right are pretty sharp in the middle of the frame, but as you follow them along further out towards the edge of the frame, they get softer. This is more obvious when the photo is viewed at larger sizes, of course, but if you view on Flickr and zoom in it should be obvious.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeremybunting/52361163984/in/album-72177720301810006/

 

You are so right with being the 1.2 wont be the only lens at this stage where we have plenty to choose from, i too always carry my apo in my bag, though it went unused most of the time in the end

the 1.2 when stopped down would just perform as oke as to not to swap with the other more performing lens imho, and so true that it’s trickiest when shooting widest open in bright sunlight 

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I'm still on a fence if I want this lens. It is somewhat limiting (aka mood lens) but images I took with it always noticeable when I scroll my Lightroom catalog.

 

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m3, noctilux 50 f1.2, delta 3200 (dd-x)

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Same as above

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On 9/16/2022 at 5:09 PM, Franka373 said:

I made a mistake of going through this whole thread.  Hooked does not fully describe it.  Some questions. I tried to find an example but may have missed it. How does the new version of the f/1.2 compare with summilux asph f/1.4 at f/1.4? I ask because I am trying to keep to three lenses and so I don’t want two 50’s. What about cropping at wide open?  Do you loose much?  Thanks for your help. 

I have both and both wide open are just very different. 
 

the nocti wide open renders more like a vintage lens. Wide open it’s soft, and has a very unique out of focus rendering. 
The coloring I get from the 1.2 is what I describe as a little more vivid and contrasty, colors seem a bit more saturated. 
 

the summilux 1.4 looks like a summilux, I know that doesn’t mean much. But it has a look that once you get used to seeing you’ll know it. 

Apart from the rendering the handling of the 2 are quite different. min focusing distance is 1m for the nocti and 0.7 for the lux. And the nocti is noticeably heavier, and focus throw is longer.

When comparing both, the nocti is a slower lens for me to focus with because of the longer focus throw.  And the added weight and 1m focus distance often come into my decision  when I’m choosing a lens to shoot with. 
 

In short the 2 are very different. The nocti to me is more like an occasional lens, and offers a very unique look. But I couldn’t have it as my only 50mm. 

The 50 lux is more adept for any situation and would be great as your only 50mm. 
the 50 lux has its own rendering that’s unique as well. And it’s a look that you wouldn’t get tired of.
Whereas  with the nocti, especially wide open, it’s rendering could be  too much at times. I could see if the 1.2 was someones only 50 they would be wishing for a different look eventually. 
 The summilux has a nice balance of being pleasing without being overbearing or boring. 

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m3, noctilux 50 f1.2, delta 3200 (dd-x), printed on mgfb and scanned

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M10R bp noctilux @ f1,7 in greece

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M10R bp   noctilux f1,2  @f4 in greece

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