Ilford to raise prices 11/5/20

[ianman]

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1 hour ago, fatihayoglu said:

Is bulk loading easy? Do you need a special film canister as I don't see how you can reuse current film canisters.

Yes, you can buy reusable canisters and a device for loading the bulk film into them. It's fairly cheap, you can probably find them on ebay.

Another advantage is that if you need to, you can make rolls of 12, 24, or any other quantity of frames. This could be interesting if you know you not going to need 36 exposures or if you want to do some tests.

[mann61]

23 minutes ago, tom.w.bn said:

So Fomapan is superior to Ilford films? On which planet or in which dimension is this?

From time to time I'm unfaithful to Iflord but after two or three rolls of cheaper stuff I always come back.

I like Fomapan mainly because it's easy to Stand develop. The last time I used Ilford it refused to scan. Kodak Trix 400 is a problem to Stand develop . So I keep with film like Rollei and Fomapan .

[otto.f]

1 hour ago, tom.w.bn said:

Price increase for single roll films is 6% to 10%. Only chemistry goes up 15%.

Thanks, because I was most afraid for papers. One sheet of 30x40 FB paper is now already €4,=. I use hardly any Ilford chemistry. Xtol for films, or Rollei. Moersch eco4812 for paper development, extremely good, shelf life as well. For fixing and the rest Kodak or others are ok. 

Edited May 2, 2020 by otto.f

[fatihayoglu]

2 hours ago, ianman said:

Yes, you can buy reusable canisters and a device for loading the bulk film into them. It's fairly cheap, you can probably find them on ebay.

Another advantage is that if you need to, you can make rolls of 12, 24, or any other quantity of frames. This could be interesting if you know you not going to need 36 exposures or if you want to do some tests.

Thanks a lot, watched some YouTube videos on this. As far as I understand, if you do it in complete darkness, your waste can be minimum. What I don’t understand is, Generally they stick the end to the canister with a tape and at day light setup, that part is exposed already.

 

Two question then, how do we make sure the tape doesn’t come off when we advance film and the other question would be, that exposed part is long enough on which I usually have a frame or two of photos. When I cut my rolls before I develop them, I usually have a centimeter or less left so how would I know When I load the bulk film in the camera whether I come to that exposed part or not.

Edited May 2, 2020 by fatihayoglu

[tom.w.bn]

vor 7 Minuten schrieb fatihayoglu:

Thanks a lot, watched some YouTube videos on this. As far as I understand, if you do it in complete darkness, your waste can be minimum. What I don’t understand is, Generally they stick the end to the canister with a tape and at day light setup, that part is exposed already.

Two question then, how do we make sure the tape doesn’t come off when we advance film and the other question would be, that exposed part is long enough on which I usually have a frame or two of photos. When I cut my rolls before I develop them, I usually have a centimeter or less left so how would I know When I load the bulk film in the camera whether I come to that exposed part or not.

I don't have any experience with bulk loading film but I assume that with 10 messed up films you then know how it works.

[otto.f]

A filmloader costs new 70€ or 110€. A secondhand at ebay for 25€ or so would be quite old, I don’t know whether that would work flawless

[250swb]

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4 hours ago, tom.w.bn said:

So Fomapan is superior to Ilford films? On which planet or in which dimension is this?

From time to time I'm unfaithful to Iflord but after two or three rolls of cheaper stuff I always come back.

I wouldn't write off Fomapan, it is an excellent film for large format although to be fair I haven't used it in 35mm. Any new film needs a new processing regime, and in large format I've used Fomapan with Pyro developers and it is 'better' than some mainstream films for grain and actuance. So each new film is a new start, and its price isn't the determining factor in how good it is.

[Stealth3kpl]

I've seen some very impressive results with Fomapan. If I didn't have about 10 years worth of film in the freezer, I would get some.

Pete

[Stealth3kpl]

21 hours ago, fatihayoglu said:

What I don’t understand is, Generally they stick the end to the canister with a tape and at day light setup, that part is exposed already.

I've actually started using my bulk film loader in my changing bag. I can now be confident that my last photo won't be half frame.

Pete

[Stealth3kpl]

21 hours ago, fatihayoglu said:

Two question then, how do we make sure the tape doesn’t come off when we advance film

I use decorators masking tape. It is surprisingly strong. Advance the film slowly when approaching the end of the film to feel the first hint of resistance.

Pete

21 hours ago, fatihayoglu said:

that exposed part is long enough on which I usually have a frame or two of photos. When I cut my rolls before I develop them, I usually have a centimeter or less left so how would I know When I load the bulk film in the camera whether I come to that exposed part or not.

Learn to use your bulk film loader in a changing bag or a darkroom. It's actually easy and is my preferred method now.

Pete

[otto.f]

2 hours ago, Stealth3kpl said:

10 years worth of film

If you can predict that. Corona makes us more humble to plan a future

[Stealth3kpl]

On 5/3/2020 at 1:34 PM, Stealth3kpl said:

I've seen some very impressive results with Fomapan. If I didn't have about 10 years worth of film in the freezer, I would get some.

Pete

Here's an example (Facebook link). Granted it's a crappy jpeg but it looks really nice.

Pete

[TomB_tx]

I’ve been using Fomapan (sold by Freestyle as Arista EDU) in 35mm & 120 in 100 & 400 ISO. Give pleasing results, and the 35mm has almost no curl, so it scans well.

The 35 400 has very weak anti-halation, so light sources in the frame get an old-school halo. The 120 has a dark dye that takes a bit to wash out.

Also, the Arista 35mm canisters have no DX coding.

Edited May 13, 2020 by TomB_tx

[Steve Ricoh]

On 5/13/2020 at 8:37 PM, TomB_tx said:

I’ve been using Fomapan (sold by Freestyle as Arista EDU) in 35mm & 120 in 100 & 400 ISO. Give pleasing results, and the 35mm has almost no curl, so it scans well.

The 35 400 has very weak anti-halation, so light sources in the frame get an old-school halo. The 120 has a dark dye that takes a bit to wash out.

Also, the Arista 35mm canisters have no DX coding.

For some time now I’ve been searching for a film exhibiting halation from differentiated light sources, eg artificial lights; Fomapan 400 may well be the film for me.

If at all possible would you mind posting some examples, please.