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Out of curiosity how many of you set a specific ISO i.e. 200?

How many use the system of capping the ISO at a specific number i.e. 1600 with a lowest shutter speed setting i.e. 1/30th?

How many let the camera choose the ISO automatically with no parameters?

MTIA!

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Auto ISO most of the time

12800 max ISO & 1/100th or 1/125th as minimum shutter speed. OIS is set in auto too  

Sometimes I set manually 50 ISO. But it is a broken ISO with less highlights and a broken metering. 
 

If I need slower shutter speed I also dial it manually and I just go directly down to 1/30th or lower to get advantage of IS. 
 

I never let Q2 go to 1/60th or 1/80th because OIS will not trigger and you get blurry photos at these speeds with 47MP
 

Edited by nicci78
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vor 11 Stunden schrieb mikbau:

I also never use Auto ISO

That is somehow difficult to understand. Mainly in dim light I change to Auto (with the M though) unless I have the camera on the tripod and take my time to set all variables. Normally I have no tripod.

Edited by M10 for me
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I never use Auto-ISO for general photography. I like to keep control myself and not hand it over to some IT geek in Wetzlar ;) . In low light street scenes etc.,  A-I is rather counterproductive. One needs to control the highlights in exposure and automatic interference in the background messes things up.

 Long lenses hand-held is another matter, there one wants to optimize the shutter speed and let the ISO fluctuate.

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2 hours ago, jaapv said:

I never use Auto-ISO for general photography. I like to keep control myself and not hand it over to some IT geek in Wetzlar ;) . In low light street scenes etc.,  A-I is rather counterproductive. One needs to control the highlights in exposure and automatic interference in the background messes things up.

 Long lenses hand-held is another matter, there one wants to optimize the shutter speed and let the ISO fluctuate.

I am an exposure compensation guy. Don’t mind to control my camera this way : PASM mode (whatever best for the situation) Auto ISO + Exposure compensation CL being a mirrorless it offers WYSIWYG view. No more chimping, I just dial in the desire exposure.  
 

Actually : exposure compensation Is quite convenient. It changes what does not matter for the scene : ISO primarily. Then aperture and/or speed. 
Eg If you are in A mode, what matters to you is the chosen aperture. And be assure to have the minimum shutter speed to avoid shake and/or motion blur. Everything else can change to get the right exposure. 
Same for other modes. 

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Exactly. One of the advantages of a camera like the CL. Keep the histogram in the EVF and use the EV wheel to adjust it real time. I have been advocating this technique since the camera came out. But I keep Auto-ISO out of it. I prefer my own control. It is quick enough to use the other wheel to change ISO should the need arise.

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I had 2 reasons for asking the question: 

1. You can sometimes see in LR where two shots taken close together in time appear to have different “grain” characteristics, and you can see the ISO has changed. I know you can fix this in LR but wondered whether sticking to a fixed ISO might be a better solution.

2. I found my father’s old Western V light meter along with the invercone attachment and thought about taking that out to independently check light readings and then set a fixed ISO.

I’m sure there’s no logical reason to use an external light meter but it seems like a fun thing to do every now and again. Anyone here use an external light meter?

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6 minutes ago, Le Chef said:

 

 

 

I’m sure there’s no logical reason to use an external light meter but it seems like a fun thing to do every now and again. Anyone here use an external light meter?

I do, when I shoot film with my Bronica ETSRi.

With my CL, there is need to do so.

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12 minutes ago, Le Chef said:

I had 2 reasons for asking the question: 

1. You can sometimes see in LR where two shots taken close together in time appear to have different “grain” characteristics, and you can see the ISO has changed. I know you can fix this in LR but wondered whether sticking to a fixed ISO might be a better solution.

2. I found my father’s old Western V light meter along with the invercone attachment and thought about taking that out to independently check light readings and then set a fixed ISO.

I’m sure there’s no logical reason to use an external light meter but it seems like a fun thing to do every now and again. Anyone here use an external light meter?

Don't trust the thing too much - that is an old Selenium meter - it is unlikely to be anywhere near accurate, if it is still working.

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Auto ISO + M mode. + live view.

I found this the most convenient way to be in full controlI of all four parameters : Aperture, shutter speed, ISO, exposure compensation.  

All other setting will leave  at least parameter a little less convenient to adjust. 

Not sure if I am loosing IQ, 

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