Repaired v3 Noctilux Buying Advice

[iamamar]

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19 minutes ago, a5m said:

 

Sure thing, it's my pleasure

It's hard to tell due to them being resized. Were these taken wide open? I'd request them to upload wide open RAWs to Google Drive or Dropbox etc. If they are unwilling, best to move on to the next one because they might be hiding the fact it's not a sharp copy.

I wouldn't go off of anything but full size RAWs, or at least unedited JPEGs. I'm no lens expert, so I don't know what property of a lens causes this, but the F1 is one of those where even a soft image looks sharp at normal viewing magnification. Only when you zoom in do you see the softness. Same thing with the 50 Summilux Pre-ASPH E46, and also the Nikon 58/1.4G.

Hopefully you find a sharp one sooner than later. Otherwise one can get discouraged quite quickly...

Good idea. I asked for some DNGs, let’s see what he replies. I’m no expert either, but I understand what you are saying. 
 

I hope so too. Eventually you just want the search to end. I’ve been quite lucky with my purchases throughout the years hopefully that luck has not run out yet! 
 

 

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[Donzo98]

16 hours ago, iamamar said:

I should have purchased the v2 you where selling a few months ago. I missed out out on that gem...

 

Yeah... from what the previous owner said... it was his sharpest copy of 6!!

[iamamar]

8 hours ago, Donzo98 said:

Yeah... from what the previous owner said... it was his sharpest copy of 6!!

That’s amazing. I hope it’s doesn’t take me that long to come across one! 

[farnz]

6 hours ago, iamamar said:

That’s amazing. I hope it’s doesn’t take me that long to come across one! 

Personally speaking I think you would be wise not to get too hung up on the sharpness* of a Noctilux because that's not the strength of the lens or what sets it apart from the rest.  If you do then it might be a long time before you find one that's acceptable to you and all the while you'll miss out on using this wonderful lens simply because you might be concerned that its pictures might not be 'sharp* enough'. 🙂  It could become like chasing and capturing smoke.

Pete.

*whatever sharpness is defined as in this instance in terms of acutance, contrast, and resolution.

Edited November 9, 2019 by farnz

[a.noctilux]

Pete resumes very well the Noctilux "rendering", nothing to do with "sharpness"

but lovely (if well used of course), if we don't want "only sharpness" ( this is so variable with people ).

[iamamar]

2 hours ago, farnz said:

Personally speaking I think you would be wise not to get too hung up on the sharpness* of a Noctilux because that's not the strength of the lens or what sets it apart from the rest.  If you do then it might be a long time before you find one that's acceptable to you and all the while you'll miss out on using this wonderful lens simply because you might be concerned that its pictures might not be 'sharp* enough'. 🙂  It could become like chasing and capturing smoke.

Pete.

*whatever sharpness is defined as in this instance in terms of acutance, contrast, and resolution.

 

2 hours ago, a.noctilux said:

Pete resumes very well the Noctilux "rendering", nothing to do with "sharpness"

but lovely (if well used of course), if we don't want "only sharpness" ( this is so variable with people ).

I totally understand what you are saying. Thanks for reminding me of that! I photograph for myself and to make memories for those around me. The unique rendering and imperfections is what I am focusing on with this lens.
 

Any thoughts on the v4 version with the built in hood. I have been avoiding it in my search because of the negative reviews I read about the hood collapsing and not protecting the front element (plus I don’t really like the square look but I think I could get used to it). Trying to figure out a backup plan if this deal falls through. I see a lot more v4 for sale than the previous versions. 

[farnz]

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2 minutes ago, iamamar said:

Any thoughts on the v4 version with the built in hood. I have been avoiding it in my search because of the negative reviews I read about the hood collapsing and not protecting the front element (plus I don’t really like the square look but I think I could get used to it). Trying to figure out a backup plan if this deal falls through. I see a lot more v4 for sale than the previous versions. 

I have the 4th version with the rectangular hood and while the plastic hood is fairly rubbish and wouldn't protect the front element I find that my 50/1 Noctilux lens is the most flare-resistant of any lens I've ever used, including the legendary 28/2 Summicron-M asph v1, so I never use it.  I'm often shooting with strong spectral highlights such as street lamps in the frame and I get no flare at all.

Pete.

[a.noctilux]

In my use of Noctilux 1.0 , now the hood 12519 for it stays idle.

Sometimes, I screw in front a short vestigal hood E58 for mechanical protection as I don't use protective filter.

 

As Pete, I find that Noctilux 1.0 is one of the most flare free lens, why I don't use a filter in front which filter, even multi-coated, can lead to flare "a lot" (reflections in/from the filter).

In Noctilux 1.2/50 first version, I've read that they talked about "inside/virtual hood" as the combination of lenses (or coatings) acts as "hood" as such.

This is with low light with some "hot spots" in the lens creators's mind.

The results are great for that in the f/1 version that I know well.

[iamamar]

2 hours ago, farnz said:

I have the 4th version with the rectangular hood and while the plastic hood is fairly rubbish and wouldn't protect the front element I find that my 50/1 Noctilux lens is the most flare-resistant of any lens I've ever used, including the legendary 28/2 Summicron-M asph v1, so I never use it.  I'm often shooting with strong spectral highlights such as street lamps in the frame and I get no flare at all.

Pete.

That is a great to know from your experience. Thanks for sharing, Pete! Now I’m thinking about the 28 Summicron, lol 

[iamamar]

2 hours ago, a.noctilux said:

In my use of Noctilux 1.0 , now the hood 12519 for it stays idle.

Sometimes, I screw in front a short vestigal hood E58 for mechanical protection as I don't use protective filter.

 

As Pete, I find that Noctilux 1.0 is one of the most flare free lens, why I don't use a filter in front which filter, even multi-coated, can lead to flare "a lot" (reflections in/from the filter).

In Noctilux 1.2/50 first version, I've read that they talked about "inside/virtual hood" as the combination of lenses (or coatings) acts as "hood" as such.

This is with low light with some "hot spots" in the lens creators's mind.

The results are great for that in the f/1 version that I know well.

Interesting. I have the habit of having a UV filter on all my lenses. I don’t use lens caps so it’s becomes a form of protection. I also read opinions on how you should not use a filter vs using a filter. I should try shooting without it at times.

You have so much experience with the F/1, that is so wonderful! I am excited to get a copy to start leaning about the lens  as well..

[a.noctilux]

I think that you must take some time reservation for learning curve to have the most out of Noctilux.

One of the most demanding lens if you like the rendering and take time to know to use it.

 

Let's see how filter can degrade the Noctilux 1.0 ...

So long time ago, in 2008 when I had the M8 and try to use the received from Leica UV/IR filter to have the right "coloring in artificial lighting",

experimentation with Noctilux 1.0 was not very convincing, here's how I don't use the UV/IR filter with M8 on most of my lenses afterward ...

 

Pont Alexandre III, M8, Noctilux 1.0 plus Leica UV/IR filter

plenty of "spots" of reflections in the sky and most dark area

 

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..

 

[a.noctilux]

 

When I saw those spots, I took off the UV/IR filter from the lens

 

Miracle, no more false lights

 

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no UV/IR filter on the Noctilux

[a5m]

5 hours ago, iamamar said:

Interesting. I have the habit of having a UV filter on all my lenses. I don’t use lens caps so it’s becomes a form of protection. I also read opinions on how you should not use a filter vs using a filter. I should try shooting without it at times.

You have so much experience with the F/1, that is so wonderful! I am excited to get a copy to start leaning about the lens  as well..

You might want to get an ND filter instead...at f/1.0 it lets in too much light. How about that! Like sunglasses for your lens. Blew my mind when I first got this lens. Still does.

[iamamar]

4 hours ago, a.noctilux said:

I think that you must take some time reservation for learning curve to have the most out of Noctilux.

One of the most demanding lens if you like the rendering and take time to know to use it.

 

Let's see how filter can degrade the Noctilux 1.0 ...

So long time ago, in 2008 when I had the M8 and try to use the received from Leica UV/IR filter to have the right "coloring in artificial lighting",

experimentation with Noctilux 1.0 was not very convincing, here's how I don't use the UV/IR filter with M8 on most of my lenses afterward ...

 

Pont Alexandre III, M8, Noctilux 1.0 plus Leica UV/IR filter

plenty of "spots" of reflections in the sky and most dark area

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

..

 

It’s a photography challenge I am looking forward to!

Interesting set of images. There is certainly a difference with the addition of a filter. 

[iamamar]

34 minutes ago, a5m said:

You might want to get an ND filter instead...at f/1.0 it lets in too much light. How about that! Like sunglasses for your lens. Blew my mind when I first got this lens. Still does.

It’s already on my shopping list! Thinking a 3 stop should be enough. I’m ready to get my mind blown! Glad you are enjoying the lens. 

[a5m]

1 hour ago, iamamar said:

It’s already on my shopping list! Thinking a 3 stop should be enough. I’m ready to get my mind blown! Glad you are enjoying the lens. 

I went with a 3 stop too. Lots of good choices out there, not just B+W. This lens deserves the best. Get ready, the shutter speeds at night are equally mind blowing. Hope you find the right one soon!

[iamamar]

17 hours ago, a5m said:

I went with a 3 stop too. Lots of good choices out there, not just B+W. This lens deserves the best. Get ready, the shutter speeds at night are equally mind blowing. Hope you find the right one soon!

I am so ready! Usually go with B+W, I’ll check out some other options as well. What version do you have? Where did you purchase it from? 

[farnz]

Personally I have the Heliopan Vario-ND that varies continuously from 1 stop to 10 stops and allows more flexibility than a fixed ND value.  It's made from two polarising filters sandwiched together and the ND strength is varied by revolving one of them in the same way that a polarising filter is used.

I use the Heliopan Vario-ND because some V-ND's can produce a faint 'X' on the image because the polarising filters are not well matched and a degree of overlap can occur.

Pete.

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[iamamar]

Links to a couple DNGs from the lens. Any thoughts?

 

https://drive.google.com/a/spicemode.co/file/d/1Un1bUTOoV9MNWuZXd07d2yS9MPMS26sE/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/a/spicemode.co/file/d/1mRdGZgw0gVKRreFqIpeR1A-bmc7GeXX_/view?usp=drivesdk

[iamamar]

29 minutes ago, farnz said:

Personally I have the Heliopan Vario-ND that varies continuously from 1 stop to 10 stops and allows more flexibility than a fixed ND value.  It's made from two polarising filters sandwiched together and the ND strength is varied by revolving one of them in the same way that a polarising filter is used.

I use the Heliopan Vario-ND because some V-ND's can produce a faint 'X' on the image because the polarising filters are not well matched and a degree of overlap can occur.

Pete.

I’ve been thinking about getting a vario, this might be a good time to make the investment. Good idea, thanks Pete!