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Leica Apo-Summicron-R Asph 90/2

 

 

 

 

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Edited by teiki arii
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Since this is the R image thread, let's return to some pictures.

80/1.4 Summilux-R with SL.

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Vario Elmar 105-280mm f4.2 mounted on Sony Alpha 850 via Leitax mount.

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Leica Apo-Summicron-R Asph 90/2

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180/3.4 at 6.8, TL.

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Photo taken during a British Sports Car day in Vidauban on Sunday, with 28-70 Vario Elmar R on M240. I bought this lens really to use on my R4-MOT and R9 and it is not very easy to focus on the M240 at anything other than full aperture. The easiset way seems to be to detect the obvious out of  focus points on the focus ring and go halfway between. The quite weak focus peaking on the M240 is of very limited help, whereas it works just fine on my SL and CL with this lens. Hopefully the focus peaking on the M11 whenever it is released (Photokina 2020?), will be at least as good as the SL. Unless you are taking photographs of brick walls, the quite marked  pincushion distortion of this lens at longer focal lengths is not too noticeable. What I do like is that the "out of the box" colours with this lens and the M240, which are are spot on. The red of my three wheeler Morgan is exactly correct on my calibrated MBP screen and that is with no tweaking at all on the DNG conversion in Capture One (V. 12.1pro). 

Wilson

 

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Wilson, with my M240, sometimes I find that using the magnification facility helps a bit with focus peaking, but when necessary I've evolved a similar strategy to your own, namely wide open to minimise depth of field, and thereby maximise oof, then split the difference when you can detect oof on either side, then finally going back to desired aperture. (I don't have this lens though, just the newer 28-90, so I can't speak from direct experience.) It's clunky I know, but most of my serious work is in any case done with a tripod, so it's not too much of a pain for me.

 

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41 minutes ago, masjah said:

Wilson, with my M240, sometimes I find that using the magnification facility helps a bit with focus peaking, but when necessary I've evolved a similar strategy to your own, namely wide open to minimise depth of field, and thereby maximise oof, then split the difference when you can detect oof on either side, then finally going back to desired aperture. (I don't have this lens though, just the newer 28-90, so I can't speak from direct experience.) It's clunky I know, but most of my serious work is in any case done with a tripod, so it's not too much of a pain for me.

 

John, 

Even with magnification on the M240 (which I have on the front button with a translucent Bumpon on it), if you are a bit stopped down, trying to find optimum focus at the wider focal lengths is difficult. It is too much of a faff to open the aperture, focus, then stop down again. I would probably have been better with either my SL or CL and their AF 24-90 or 18-56 lenses but my M240 was crying out from its shelf: "use me, use me" . I took the 7Artisans 75/1.25 with me as well and ended up not even taking it out of my bag. 

Wilson

Edited by wlaidlaw
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Woodland Kingfisher @ Zarafa, Botswana. In perfect late afternoon light.

Sony A7r & Leica R 105-280mm

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White  Orchid

T w/Apo-Macro-Elmarit-R at f/2.8.

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Southern White Admiral

Leica 100mm f2.8 APO-Elmarit R with Leiax Mount on Sony α 850

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M-P w/Apo-Macro-Elmarit-R 100.

There seems to be more 3D rendering with the M.

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