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Leica M Film Photos -- Feel Free to Share Yours

RayD28

By RayD28
in Leica M-A / M7 / MP and Film M

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How to upload images: Prepare the image as follows: 1.   The image should be sRGB and 8-bits 2.   Reduce the size to 2480 pixels on the longest side. (smaller sizes can be set, but are not recommended) 3.   Sharpen properly for screen. 4.   Save as JPG to your desktop, reducing JPG quality to produce 1000 kB (2000 kB for sponsoring members). 5.   In Lightroom these parameters should be set in the Export dialog. 6.   In the Forum posting or editing box, click “c
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frame-it

frame-it

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12 minutes ago, RayD28 said:

 

So you are scanning as if it was color film to create a DNG and then flipping the curve so you get a b & w image?

you get more data in the file if you don't choose the monochrome option while scanning

 

but i also do it for certain color film stocks as mentioned above

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jakontil
jakontil

M2-R + 50 apo Kentmere 400  ILfotec HC 

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jakontil
jakontil

MP | 50 lux asph | kodak portra 400 | home souped

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jakontil
jakontil

M6 | 50 noctilux | cinestill 800t home souped

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Aryel

Aryel

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“La fenêtre et le volet “

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M3, rigid 50, delta 400 (DD by Malvarrosa) printed on mgfb classic and scanned

PS: Sorry for the French title but I could not make it sound fancy in English 🤣

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jakontil

jakontil

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4 hours ago, Steven said:

Yes, I'm quite impressed by it. Yesterday, I tried the dslr + negative lab pro method, and I much preferred the plustek result side by side. It was also much less tedious. 

Such a pity that it won't let me scan in DNG. Would the 8300i allow this ? 

hi steve, the plustek with silverfast let u scan in DNG, that's my workflow with the NLP and plustek... well actually since i swoop my laptop, i couldnt register silverfast, but i m using vue scan and still scan in DNG...

 

the8300i is the same beast only higher in Dmax which i actually love and faster scanning but im sticking with 8200i for now

you found it that it is more preferred over DSLR? quite tricky and havent found a great results too

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jakontil

jakontil

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8 hours ago, otto.f said:

Nice idea, to combine this top of the bill lens with a film which is not looked upon very highly 

lol, u aint he first said so today but yeah kentmere and hp5 were my only go to BW film and i have 'em in bulks

with the kentmere, i love to experiment with different developers, shooting etc... it just happened i have it mounted on my M camera :D

 

another kentmere shot with 50 1.2 noct

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jakontil

jakontil

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another shot with kentmere 400 + 50 apo, souped in tetenal paranol S

scanned with v600

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oldwino

oldwino

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22 minutes ago, jakontil said:

lol, u aint he first said so today but yeah kentmere and hp5 were my only go to BW film and i have 'em in bulks

with the kentmere, i love to experiment with different developers, shooting etc... it just happened i have it mounted on my M camera :D

 

another kentmere shot with 50 1.2 noct

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Kentmere 400 is a good film. Reminds me a little of older Tri-X. The Kentmere 100 is even better.

Which developer are you using with it? 

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jakontil

jakontil

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Just now, oldwino said:

Kentmere 400 is a good film. Reminds me a little of older Tri-X. The Kentmere 100 is even better.

Which developer are you using with it? 

how do you define good film? i love kentmere because it is quite reliable in different situation and my cheaper alternative to HP5+

i love it gives me flat results which oke latitude which later easily adjusted 

how the kentmere 100 better? this is interesting... never tried before since i got few bulks roll of the 400 

i use tetenal paranol S to develop in this case, though usually i use ilford HC too  but the grain with the former is more pronounced

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oldwino

oldwino

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20 minutes ago, jakontil said:

how do you define good film? i love kentmere because it is quite reliable in different situation and my cheaper alternative to HP5+

i love it gives me flat results which oke latitude which later easily adjusted 

how the kentmere 100 better? this is interesting... never tried before since i got few bulks roll of the 400 

i use tetenal paranol S to develop in this case, though usually i use ilford HC too  but the grain with the former is more pronounced

I find Kentmere 400 to have an overall nice "look" to it. It is not thew sharpest 400 speed film, and it can be grainy in some developers, but overall I like it. It certainly has a nice price, too!

Kentmere 100 is very sharp, at least in Xtol developer. I suspect it will be good in Rodinal too. I like the contrast I get from this combo very much. 

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a.noctilux

a.noctilux

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Ah Paris is always Paris 😇

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P_Wijk

P_Wijk

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Christmas shooting First roll of Kodak TMax 400 on My newly served  M2 with summilux 35FLE

Shot in sunset and clear full moon sky 

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Sailronin

Sailronin

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Self portrait, Seattle 2019

Leica MP with 35mm Summicron on Ilford FP4+ developed in HC110B

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otto.f

otto.f

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4 hours ago, jakontil said:

kentmere and hp5 were my only go to BW film

Seems to me that the grain is nicer than with HP5+, although that’s a bold statement because it depends on the developer for a large part too. 

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Guest JMF

Guest JMF

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MP - 35 Summilux pre asph v2 - Portra 800 @400

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Ernest

Ernest

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Hanapepe Ford Pickup
MP APO 50 ADOX Color Implosion

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Guest JMF

Guest JMF

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M6J - 5cm Fujinon 1.2 Contax mount -  Silbersalz35 Kodak 200TVision3

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leo10691

leo10691

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Leica M6 + 35mm Summicron Black Chrome with a Silbersalz 250D

 

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Sunyforreal

Sunyforreal

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Just got my scans back today, not many things are worse than seeing a photo you really really love that you missed focus on 🤦‍♂️ 

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M7, 50 ‘Lux, HP5 +1 Edited by Sunyforreal
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prk60091

prk60091

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1 hour ago, Sunyforreal said:

Just got my scans back today, not many things are worse than seeing a photo you really really love that you missed focus on 🤦‍♂️ 

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M7, 50 ‘Lux, HP5 +1

been there done that

 

sorry for your loss

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jakontil

jakontil

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Mp + 50 1.2 noct

kodak gold 200, home souped + plustek 8200i

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rtai

rtai

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I am happy with the M10M and will not shoot 135 film anymore. For medium format I will if I can get access to a public darkroom. I don’t want a scanned digital file when I can get it direct from a digital camera. For 8x10 I want to learn how to do alternative processes like carbon. 
 

Here’s one in Agra with M7 and Acros 100. I think I used an F1 Noctilux else the 35mm Summilux Asph at f1.4 I don’t remember. 

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