ND filters for the Q?

[Orguy]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I would like to buy a set of ND filters to get some of the long exposure effects with water, traffic, etc. Which strengths do you suggest and use? If the correct exposure is, say, f11, 1/100th sec, ISO 100 then a 6 stop filter would lengthen that to about .5 sec, and a 10 stop filter factor would make it 10 sec. This seems like a good pair for sunny bright conditions, based on this back of the envelope calculation. Is that what you would suggest?

[Leica Guy]

I would like to buy a set of ND filters to get some of the long exposure effects with water, traffic, etc. Which strengths do you suggest and use? If the correct exposure is, say, f11, 1/100th sec, ISO 100 then a 6 stop filter would lengthen that to about .5 sec, and a 10 stop filter factor would make it 10 sec. This seems like a good pair for sunny bright conditions, based on this back of the envelope calculation. Is that what you would suggest?

I've never used a 10-stop filter. So far the 6-stop has met my needs. They're not horribly expensive. If you buy the 10-stop, I'd love to see some pics here on the forum and have you tell us your experience.

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[mehtasunil]

I've never used a 10-stop filter. So far the 6-stop has met my needs. They're not horribly expensive. If you buy the 10-stop, I'd love to see some pics here on the forum and have you tell us your experience.

 

In India, Sri Lanka and other countries in that part of world afternoons are very bright and to stop motion ND filter of 9 or 10 is common and must have if you like taking pic of waterfall etc.

Attached Image is taken with 9 Stop ND filter HOYA NDX 400 @ 2 Sec, f/16, ISO 100.I always carry 5 and 9 stop.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

[Iduna]

Generally only polarizer and ND filters are advisable. The Q does not need any eytra protection glass !

 

I use a screw polarizer by B&W when there is a light/water etc situation and contrast can be managed better.

 

I use ND grad filters in landscape. I do not use the screw type but the filter adapter type 100 x 70 mm which I can use also for my other cameras and different lenses. The reason is the quality of glass. With B&H I have always found a colour cast  of magenta or purple. So I prefer the absolute clear glass of Lensinghouse filters. They are an investmentt of about 180 € but the results are impeccable. This is cheaper than buying extra filtersizes or step up rings causing vignetting with wideangle which is otherwise a nuisance. A colourcast once in your RAW file cannot be removed completely by any pp.

I use three types of NDgrad glass : 3 and 6 stops and the reverse type. This is very helpful when you want to integrate sunset in your landscape photography. The horizon is always the brightest part when the landscape is already quite dark.

[sumolux]

Generally only polarizer and ND filters are advisable. The Q does not need any eytra protection glass !

 

 

Hi Iduna, 

Agree with you completely; but I still use a schott glass protection just becuase it's a fixed lens, and with sand, dust and grit in high winds, etc. I don't want to risk the need of possible exra lens repair!

[eujin]

I don't own a Q (yet) but I've used ND filters on my M lenses and also for my Fuji system. B+W is generally what I go with but I've found that the 10 stop filter from them introduces a very brownish color cast that is indeed very difficult to remove in post. On the other hand, I've used a much cheaper brand called ICE for my Fuji glass that is much better, as in more neutral. You can get them on Amazon and it's half the price of the B+W. This is just for 10-stop filters. The 6-stop filters don't seem to have the same problem.