Manicouagan1 Posted July 13, 2016 Share #1 Posted July 13, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) I discovered that my M9 Monochrom had developed the dread corrosion spots. I was taking pictures of ships along the Houston Ship Channel and noticed that the sky in the images had something very wrong with each. I quickly looked at the images at 100% and at the sensor itself with my magnifying lens. Review indicated that the sensor had the corrosion pox. I was not totally surprised as the camera spends a lot of their time in coastal Texas with its humidity. So off the camera went to Leica. My diagnosis was confirmed in a nice e-mail, I called to find out how long the fix would tsker and was totld politely 3-4 months. I now know that I must live through my peak picture-taking season without my beloved camera. It’s not that I don’t like color and my M240; it is just that the Monochrom is more challenging and fun. I had planed on skipping the current Monochrom generation, but now maybe its time to give in and buy one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 Hi Manicouagan1, Take a look here Monochrom withdrawl. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
IWC Doppel Posted July 13, 2016 Share #2 Posted July 13, 2016 You'll appreciate it even more when it comes back ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmolinski Posted July 13, 2016 Share #3 Posted July 13, 2016 My mm sensor has been exchanged. It was worth the waiting. ;-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke_Miller Posted July 13, 2016 Share #4 Posted July 13, 2016 The empty space in my bag kept calling to me after sending mine in for sensor replacement. Now an M-246 occupies that space. Not sure what I'll do when the MM returns. I love that camera. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted July 14, 2016 Share #5 Posted July 14, 2016 Solution: Get a user film M body; that won't break the bank. Make life easy on yourself by buying Ilford XP2 Super; this can be developed in C41 by any commercial service, usually with a CD with decent scans that are good enough for prints up to A4. That will tide you over Should you happen to take a Pulitzer Prize winner, you can always have a high-resolution scan done . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted July 14, 2016 Share #6 Posted July 14, 2016 Solution: Get a user film M body; that won't break the bank. Make life easy on yourself by buying Ilford XP2 Super; this can be developed in C41 by any commercial service, usually with a CD with decent scans that are good enough for prints up to A4. More on XP2 here... http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2012/10/how-to-shoot-ilford-xp2-super.html Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JMF Posted July 14, 2016 Share #7 Posted July 14, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) More on XP2 here... http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2012/10/how-to-shoot-ilford-xp2-super.html Jeff Thx Jeff, a great read ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manicouagan1 Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share #8 Posted July 14, 2016 Before I bought my first digital camera, my normal imaging mode was scanned negative film including Kodak's chromogenic film, 400CN. I believe the Ilford product must be quite similar to Kodak 400CN. I would have preferred to use true black and white film (Plus-x or Tri-x) rather than the Kodak pseudo black and white film. However the scratch and dust removal on the scanner I had would not work on Plus-x or Tri –x. It would work on the pseudo black and white color negative film. I did not care for my results with the chromogenic film, partly due to the film and partly due to the labor-intensive aspects of scanning. That's what drove me to go digital, and I never looked back, although I never have sold my M7. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Albertson Posted July 14, 2016 Share #9 Posted July 14, 2016 I was also told 4 months when I sent my MM in for sensor replacement; it's now over six months. I've been shooting a lot of Tri-X. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted July 14, 2016 Share #10 Posted July 14, 2016 Before I bought my first digital camera, my normal imaging mode was scanned negative film including Kodak's chromogenic film, 400CN. I believe the Ilford product must be quite similar to Kodak 400CN. I would have preferred to use true black and white film (Plus-x or Tri-x) rather than the Kodak pseudo black and white film. However the scratch and dust removal on the scanner I had would not work on Plus-x or Tri –x. It would work on the pseudo black and white color negative film. I did not care for my results with the chromogenic film, partly due to the film and partly due to the labor-intensive aspects of scanning. That's what drove me to go digital, and I never looked back, although I never have sold my M7. Actually XP2S has a very nice tonal range. I prefer it to 400CN by quite a margin. Does the Kodak product still exist? But then, tastes differ -and so they should. I have never been a fan of TriX over all these years. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Albertson Posted July 15, 2016 Share #11 Posted July 15, 2016 Actually XP2S has a very nice tonal range. I prefer it to 400CN by quite a margin. Does the Kodak product still exist? But then, tastes differ -and so they should. I have never been a fan of TriX over all these years. 400CN was discontinued a few years ago. Too bad, Kodak is moving a lot of their movie film technology to the Portra films; they could do a nice do-over of the B&W product, if there was demand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colint544 Posted July 19, 2016 Share #12 Posted July 19, 2016 Solution: Get a user film M body; that won't break the bank. Make life easy on yourself by buying Ilford XP2 Super; this can be developed in C41 by any commercial service, usually with a CD with decent scans that are good enough for prints up to A4. That will tide you over Should you happen to take a Pulitzer Prize winner, you can always have a high-resolution scan done . +1 When I was without my M Monochrom mk1, I went back to shooting film with my M5 and M2. Really glad I did. And now that my M Monochrom is back from Wetzlar, cleaned, adjusted, and with a new sensor - I'm very happy to shoot film and digital, side by side. The same might just apply for you too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted July 19, 2016 Share #13 Posted July 19, 2016 Well personally, I really like that Pseudo-B&W film BW400CN - lovely local range and very fine grain structure. I still have 50 rolls in cold storage which I'm slowly working through. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
xenar Posted July 25, 2016 Share #14 Posted July 25, 2016 Solution: Get a user film M body; that won't break the bank. Make life easy on yourself by buying Ilford XP2 Super; this can be developed in C41 by any commercial service, usually with a CD with decent scans that are good enough for prints up to A4. That will tide you over Should you happen to take a Pulitzer Prize winner, you can always have a high-resolution scan done . +1 to this suggestion; this is what I did when my Monochrom went in, I was tossing up between a Q and a M-A and bought the M-A. I've enjoyed the film M experience so much I think I'm going to use it as my primary camera and use the Monochrom when travelling or when digital is warranted. I've now got the Monochrom back, and while having chimping capabilities and instant gratification is great, I'm enjoying the aesthetics of the film results...time will tell which will win out, I suppose Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.