Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 27, 2016 Share #121 Posted March 27, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Tri-X is very good on textures, Neil, with its grain working for, rather than against the natural light. You may also want to get some slower film, such as Delta 100, or Neopan Acros 100, so that you get a bit more latitude in aperture shooting Penang midday. It will also be a bit more gentle in skin tones if you are shooting people (although I like the way Tri-X handles humanoids). Eoin I'm staying at the Eastern Oriental in Penang and want to try and get some nice shots inside, and especially at night.............so do you think the 400 will be okay for night shots?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 27, 2016 Posted March 27, 2016 Hi Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS, Take a look here Leica Film Odyssey for a beginner. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Doc Henry Posted March 27, 2016 Share #122 Posted March 27, 2016 Neil many landscapes currently in film's thread : http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/page-650?do=findComment&comment=3015381 Rg H. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted March 27, 2016 Share #123 Posted March 27, 2016 Eoin I'm staying at the Eastern Oriental in Penang and want to try and get some nice shots inside, and especially at night.............so do you think the 400 will be okay for night shots?? Tri-X is good at handling low light. If you struggle to get hand-holdable shutter speeds, shoot a roll at ISO800 - Just make sure you mark the film cassette and tell the people doing the developing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 27, 2016 Share #124 Posted March 27, 2016 Tri-X is good at handling low light. If you struggle to get hand-holdable shutter speeds, shoot a roll at ISO800 - Just make sure you mark the film cassette and tell the people doing the developing. When you do that do you have to set the ISO at the beginning and stick with it or can you switch mid roll?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 27, 2016 Share #125 Posted March 27, 2016 Tri-X is good at handling low light. If you struggle to get hand-holdable shutter speeds, shoot a roll at ISO800 - Just make sure you mark the film cassette and tell the people doing the developing. I've got the Leica tabletop tripod and a cable release for a M so I guess I could always stick the tripod on the Piano and shoot the band that way :) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vhfreund Posted March 27, 2016 Share #126 Posted March 27, 2016 Steve What does it do mate? Deutsche Industrie Norm ! ISO 400 equals 27 DIN Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted March 27, 2016 Share #127 Posted March 27, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Eoin I'm staying at the Eastern Oriental in Penang and want to try and get some nice shots inside, and especially at night.............so do you think the 400 will be okay for night shots?? Neil, if you've not used film before I'd suggest just shooting under standard daylight conditions until you have a feel for it.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 27, 2016 Share #128 Posted March 27, 2016 Neil, if you've not used film before I'd suggest just shooting under standard daylight conditions until you have a feel for it.... You know me by now Mark............you know that ain't going to happen :) I'm taking Miss Q with me so I have a back up; I'm going to be a good boy and just shoot Txi 400 but shoot I am (If I see a picture I'm going to try and get it) Hell thats the way we learn right :) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted March 27, 2016 Share #129 Posted March 27, 2016 When you do that do you have to set the ISO at the beginning and stick with it or can you switch mid roll?? This may help you understand the concept, Neil: When you push or pull, you are not "tricking" the camera, you are adjusting the meter (eg Shooting ISO 400 Tri-X, you change the meter rating on the back of the camera, or your hand-held meter, to ISO 800). You use the meter readings to set your aperture and shutter speed. When the film is developed, the type of developer and the amount of developing time can be changed to "normalise" the under-exposure of pushed film, or the over-exposure of pulled film. Developing occurs to the whole film at once, so pushing or pulling has to be for the whole film (there are some ways of shooting a roll at 2 different ISO's but that requires a lot more attention than you or I are ever likely to want to put into it). Basically this means that, if you are going to push the Tri-X, you need to decide on that before you start shooting, and you then shoot the whole roll at that speed. You then get it processed separately in order to have the developing adjusted to prevent it being over or under-developed. Others may disagree, but I suggest shooting all the films you take with you at box speed, as that will tell you empirically what they can and cannot do. Leave pushing and pulling until you know what normal is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpavich Posted March 27, 2016 Share #130 Posted March 27, 2016 Others may disagree, but I suggest shooting all the films you take with you at box speed, as that will tell you empirically what they can and cannot do. Leave pushing and pulling until you know what normal is. Normally, I'd have disagreed but now that I have a slight bit of experience, I agree with EoinC on this. I started by doing all kinds of whacky stuff, pushing, developing in different developers, switching film, all kinds of things. I THOUGHT I was evaluating film and developers and deciding what I liked but what I was actually doing was spinning my wheels and not making any real forward progress towards better negatives. It wasn't until I bought 100' of Kentmere and started to wet print that I noticed a few things. I stumbled on the idea of making a "proper proof" and in doing so, realized that all of those negatives that I thought were fine? Turned out to be crap. Sure, the scanner covered a multitude of sins and they were fine online but in reality, I was very inconsistent in my shooting method, developing method, and all. I have to say, having been where you are just 6 months ago, I'd say buy one film, shoot it at box speed, and develop it by the manufacturer's recommendation. Then, and only then, start to think about what to change. PS: Shooting a Leica in dark conditions isn't the same as shooting a digi-camera in dark conditions. You'd NEVER use ISO 400 to shoot in a dark room with your DSLR, but it's actually very possible with a Leica, so don't be too afraid of bracing yourself, breathing slowly and pulling that trigger slowly, just like a gun. You'd be surprised at what you can get at 400 ISO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith (M) Posted March 27, 2016 Share #131 Posted March 27, 2016 KL & Penang in early Spring - bearing in mind a max shutter speed of 1/1000sec I would suggest an ISO 100 film such as Fuji Acros 100 would be more suitable than Tri-X. When trying out new camera & film combinations I try to be self-disciplined enough to jot down frame number, speed & aperture in a small notebook so that I can relate the settings to the results - grist to the learning mill, so to speak. The 'Photography is writing with light' section in Osterloh's book is a good starting point but if you decide that film is for you then books such as Ansel Adams 'The Negative', John Blakemore's 'Black and White Photography Workshop' and Michael Langford's 'Basic Photography' all will help forge a deeper/better understanding of all aspects of film photography. At the end of the day though (unless your livelihood depends on it), photography is meant to be an enjoyable pastime so grab some rolls of film and get out there clicking away... PS. Aside from the 'how to' books suggested above, might I suggest books such as Elliott Erwitt's 'Snaps' (Phaidon), John Maloof's 'Vivien Maier - Street Photographer' and Don McCullin's 'In England' as examples of the many potential sources of inspiration and examples of what can be achieved with film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 27, 2016 Share #132 Posted March 27, 2016 This may help you understand the concept, Neil: When you push or pull, you are not "tricking" the camera, you are adjusting the meter (eg Shooting ISO 400 Tri-X, you change the meter rating on the back of the camera, or your hand-held meter, to ISO 800). You use the meter readings to set your aperture and shutter speed. When the film is developed, the type of developer and the amount of developing time can be changed to "normalise" the under-exposure of pushed film, or the over-exposure of pulled film. Developing occurs to the whole film at once, so pushing or pulling has to be for the whole film (there are some ways of shooting a roll at 2 different ISO's but that requires a lot more attention than you or I are ever likely to want to put into it). Basically this means that, if you are going to push the Tri-X, you need to decide on that before you start shooting, and you then shoot the whole roll at that speed. You then get it processed separately in order to have the developing adjusted to prevent it being over or under-developed. Others may disagree, but I suggest shooting all the films you take with you at box speed, as that will tell you empirically what they can and cannot do. Leave pushing and pulling until you know what normal is. Mate..........I know your trying hard to get that push pull stuff over to me but to be honest its going right over the top of my head, can you give it to me in roughneck terms, or better still can it be related to digital? Sorry mate I'm trying but I just can visualise what you are saying Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpavich Posted March 27, 2016 Share #133 Posted March 27, 2016 Mate..........I know your trying hard to get that push pull stuff over to me but to be honest its going right over the top of my head, can you give it to me in roughneck terms, or better still can it be related to digital? Sorry mate I'm trying but I just can visualise what you are saying This is why I said forget anything but getting out there and just shooting. Shoot at box speed, develop at the recommended times and temps...and forget the rest...it will all come in time. You are getting bogged down in details that won't mean much to you for a while. We call it "Analysis by Paralysis" at work. Just forget all this....- Set your camera for 400 ISO. Shoot 400 ISO film. Get film developed Enjoy. Once you've done that for 10 rolls of film...you will have different questions and a different perspective. Really. Just get out there and start clicking that shutter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 27, 2016 Share #134 Posted March 27, 2016 KL & Penang in early Spring - bearing in mind a max shutter speed of 1/1000sec I would suggest an ISO 100 film such as Fuji Acros 100 would be more suitable than Tri-X. When trying out new camera & film combinations I try to be self-disciplined enough to jot down frame number, speed & aperture in a small notebook so that I can relate the settings to the results - grist to the learning mill, so to speak. The 'Photography is writing with light' section in Osterloh's book is a good starting point but if you decide that film is for you then books such as Ansel Adams 'The Negative', John Blakemore's 'Black and White Photography Workshop' and Michael Langford's 'Basic Photography' all will help forge a deeper/better understanding of all aspects of film photography. At the end of the day though (unless your livelihood depends on it), photography is meant to be an enjoyable pastime so grab some rolls of film and get out there clicking away... PS. Aside from the 'how to' books suggested above, might I suggest books such as Elliott Erwitt's 'Snaps' (Phaidon), John Maloof's 'Vivien Maier - Street Photographer' and Don McCullin's 'In England' as examples of the many potential sources of inspiration and examples of what can be achieved with film. Thanks Keith but unfortunately I don't do books, I think in my lifetime I have read about 3 books and I can't even remember what they were. I know I have missed out by not reading books but it is what it is. I am going to stick with the Tri X400 and not worry about it. I would be lying if I said I was going to take notes, that ain't going to happen either. I'm just going to go out and shoot and take it from there. I will do like everyone says, I will shoot ISO 400 and get the film developed at 400. Like I mentioned earlier in the thread I am not a complete plonker when it comes to photography, but I am new to Film...........I think I am going to surprise not only me, but all of you with the results............ The proof is in the pudding they say, so stay posted and I should have either a bunch of crap or some nice pictures to post on here and on my website by the middle of April Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wattsy Posted March 27, 2016 Share #135 Posted March 27, 2016 Thanks Keith but unfortunately I don't do books, I think in my lifetime I have read about 3 books and I can't even remember what they were. I know I have missed out by not reading books but it is what it is. It's not too late to start. Keith isn't suggesting you read Ulysses. There is so much to be gained from looking at photo books (IMO the most interesting and accessible means of photographic expression) that it really is your loss to rule them out like this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicaphilia Posted March 27, 2016 Share #136 Posted March 27, 2016 Havent read any of the replies, as they are too numerous. My advice: buy an M4. Buy a decent 35mm lens to go with it. Buy some HP5. Shoot a lot until you master the film and the camera. Then start thinking about the other stuff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted March 27, 2016 Share #137 Posted March 27, 2016 You can't change the ISO on film mid roll, if you decide to shoot it at 400 you must keep it at 400. I agree with others in that you should just stick to the films rated ISO and don't even bother yourself thinking about all the other stuff it will just confuse you even more. Get the camera, load it with the film, set the ISO and shoot away. Do read the manual about how your meter works though, it's not like the meter in your other cameras, it's more like a fat spot meter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
@McLeica Posted March 27, 2016 Share #138 Posted March 27, 2016 You can't change the ISO on film mid roll, if you decide to shoot it at 400 you must keep it at 400. I read somewhere you could if you stand developed the film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpavich Posted March 27, 2016 Share #139 Posted March 27, 2016 I read somewhere you could if you stand developed the film. Well...yes you can...sort of. You can do it if you are scanning negs and your scanner is set to correct density, but what will happen is that you will be fooling your self on how your negatives look. Yes, they will be good enough to scan and get good results; I've done it all of the way from ISO 200 to 3200 on the same roll of Kentmere 400 BUT (and this is a huge but) My negatives didn't really look good, they only "seemed" to because I was scanning and I didn't really know what a good negative looked like at the time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 27, 2016 Share #140 Posted March 27, 2016 It's not too late to start. Keith isn't suggesting you read Ulysses. There is so much to be gained from looking at photo books (IMO the most interesting and accessible means of photographic expression) that it really is your loss to rule them out like this. Mate I dont do books...........I enjoy reading articles on the web about photography, I enjoy chatting on forums about photography, but most of all I like looking at photos on the web 1000's of them, paying attention to competition, lighting, camera settings (if the show them) etc etc............. I just don't do books Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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