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How much does your dealer charge for an M240 sensor clean?


andybarton

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Mine wasn't very dirty, but is a year old and it's never been cleaned, so there were a few dust spots on it..

 

It would almost be cheaper to buy a train ticket to London and have Bruton Place do it for free, compared to what I have just been charged at my local dealer.

 

I will have to be a bit braver and do it myself in future. On the DMR, it was very easy and my old D700 has never needed a clean, so this is not really something I have had to do before.

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$50 at the Leica Store in San Francisco.  That's what they charged me last year for my MM1 and the year before for my M-E.  Hope they haven't raised their price as my MM needs another cleaning.

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I got a dozen big hunks on my virgin sensor...they don't bother me because I mostly shoot at wide f/stops and dust is an easy fix with Photoshop.

 
However I feel the need to remove them especially since "Leica's Dust Detection" pushes them in my face, and  I'm feeling brave. 
 
I thought I'd  first try  a Visible Dust "Arctic Butterfly" 
 
Then it there still there Photographic Solutions:  Sensor Swabs and Eclipse Optic Fluid
 
 
I've seen all the YouTube videos and have cleaned Nikon sensors before ....but I have always felt that all I'm doing it moving the dust around. So I have adopted the philosophy forget cleaning retouching is easier, safer and cheaper.
 
But like I said I'm feeling brave......any advice from my esteemed Lecia buddy's on How To: or what works for you?
 
 
And a thought on a different note. If Leica's Dust Detection can show me where the dust is Wouldn't it be an easy thing for Leica to create a program to work around them like "nearest neighbor"? Or does that create more problems than its worth?
 
As always Thanks to all
 
 
Also my local camera shop charges $50. for sensor cleaning ....but I'm not sure I'd trust them.
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Actually my M9-P sensor was cleaned this week by Clifton Cameras. There was no charge since I was suspicious that it was corroded (in fact it is). I believe there would normally be a charge. I've just looked at Jessops - it offers a clean for £30 if you are prepared to leave the body for two days. A same-day service adds £10 to the £30 and a two-hour service adds £20 to the £30. I'm guessing that's at the budget end of the range..so it looks like you weren't taken to the cleaners (if you pardon the pun). I agree with you, though: a day in London a much better return for your money!

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Andy,

 

my M60 had a dusty sensor on delivery and again after a trip to Wetzlar for a rangefinder alignment, after getting knocked out by yours truly.

 

It was no problem, as I'd bought a VisibleDust kit which does the job. It's not a cheap option, but it gives me peace of mind  :rolleyes:

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Hi all,

 

I recently bought the Visible Dust Arctic Buterfly. Just an horror ! I strictly respected the IFU (did not touch the brush with my fingers, did not leave it without cap, etc.), and at first use I got some "greasy" traces on my sensor. Did anybody have the same poor experience with this system ?

 

regards,

stef.

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I never will clean the sensor of my M 240 - my dealer, where I bought it  charges Euro 29 for it for those, who  have bought the camera from him. The sensor of my 5 D III I would clean myself, as I did it with my other Canons before, if necessary, but the Leica sensor never. Perhaps it would be a good idea to cover the surface of the sensors with a kind of a hard glass - similiar to sapphire glass to make it resistant to a wide range of chemicals and to scratching. But I do not kniow if this is possible - it  is just an idea.

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Does nobody read our FAQ? :(

 

 

Question: There are spots on my images, especially at small apertures.

 

 

This is sensor dirt. All digital cameras with interchangable lenses have this problem, but an M9 is particularly prone, because there is no mirror as extra barrier and the lack of an AA filter makes the dirt more visible.

 

One should prevent dust from entering the camera as much as possible. There are a number of strategies.

1. Avoid changing lenses more than necessary.

2. Change lenses in as much of a dust-free environment as possible

3. Keep the rear end of the lens as clean as possible

4. Change the lens with the camera mouth facing downwards

5. (This may be a myth) Switch off the camera before changing lenses.

 

But dust will come on the sensor anyway.

Consult the manual to find the sensor cleaning item in the menu and use a FULLY charged battery. Before opening the shutter blow out the camera (using a bulb blower, not compressed air or your mouth!) to dislodge any loose dust.

 

If the dust on the sensor is loose one can blow off the sensor using a good bulb blower, (Rocket Blower by Giotto for instance) with the camera mouth facing downwards.

 

If that does not clear the problem there are sensor brushes like the Arctic Butterfly by Visible Dust that are quite effective or the little vacuum cleaner by Green Clean. At this stage the use of a Sensor Loupe can be very helpful.

 

If spots on the sensor persist you are dealing with stuck dirt like pollen or oil spots and need to revert to wet cleaning. There are numerous threads on the subject. The Visible Dust products are highly recommended or the Green Clean wet-and-dry method.

Use a proper solvent for grease if you think you are dealing with oil etc. (Visible Dust Smear Away or Dust-Aid Sensor Clean (my preference)

 

Open the shutter for cleaning and blow it once again with a bulb blower or vacuum clean it, to remove any loose particles which might be dragged across the sensor and cause scratches.

 

Although the M9 is full frame and there are size 1 sensor swabs on the market, I prefer using the swabs for 1.3 sensors (and APS-C swabs for the M8)

Take a clean swab, put on three small drops of Sensor Cleaning Fluid and in two sweeps, top and bottow go to one side - do not over-press!!- and sweep back again, using the other side of the swab automatically.

Or, using the wet-and-dry system, swab with the wet sponge and dry with a couple of sweeps with the dry swab. Don't let the fluid spill over the edge of the sensor too much - there are electronic connections there.

 

That is all - close the shutter and test the camera by taking an unfocussed image of an evenly lit surface at the smallest aperture.

 

In the unlikely case it is needed, repeat.

 

There are other cleaning systems, such as stamping tools. I find them quite effective, as long as there are no greasy spots on the sensor.

Just stamp, don't rub. They are a bit scary as one pulls the cover glass. Leica Customer Service seem to be quite happy using them, so they should be safe.

.

There are also sensor cleaning services or Leica Customer Service, but those are expensive and will keep the camera for a while. They may also not be readily available if one is travelling. Sensor cleaning is something any owner should be able to do himself.

 

If you are fairly certain your spots are oil or grease, it may be wise to omit the step with the Arctic Butterfly, as it may become contaminated by the grease. In case that happens it can be cleaned with the special fluid provided.

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I have been using Sensor Swabs and Eclipse since the Nikon D1 days and would like to encourage everyone, even the fumble fingered and nearsighted such as my self, to just buy the stuff and do it.  You would really have to work at it to damage anything and you would develop the ability to effect an instant solution to any dirty sensor issue when and where it might pop up.

 

Case in point, Debbie and I were vacationing in Penzance and I happened to look at an image I had just made of a particularly attractive cloud formation.  Sure enough, there was a big honking glob of something unpleasant right smack in the middle of the frame. (I've had a similar occurrence when photographing my mother-ion-law, but that's another story :) ).

 

As we were still on the sidewalk in front of our rat infested and fried food smelling B&B, I ran back upstairs to our room (which is a very charitable description of it) and cleaned the sensor on the spot.

 

With the Nikons I was always best satisfied with the traditional Sensor Swab and bottle of Eclipse, but when they came out with a pre moistened swab sealed in a little flat foil envelope I thought that might be a neat bit of gear.  I tried it out on a Nikon and blew it 5 times in a row, leaving horrible streaks on the sensor that had to be removed with my previous methods.

 

Since the silly swabs cost like sin I didn't throw them away, hoping for an opportunity to use them on other projects.  Cleaning the dog's ears or something.

 

On purchasing the Leica, for some reason I decided to try them again and was pleasantly surprised.  I suspect that the different coatings on the sensor cover glass work like the coatings on spectacles, making some easier to clean than others.  In any case, the pre moistened version works very well for me on the Leica, which is easier to clean than the Nikon anyway due to the shallower throat distance.

 

I don't actually recall what I paid for the swabs but it seems like I remember I would get something like 10 DIY cleanings for the cost of one dealer cleaning.

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Hi all,

 

I recently bought the Visible Dust Arctic Buterfly. Just an horror ! I strictly respected the IFU (did not touch the brush with my fingers, did not leave it without cap, etc.), and at first use I got some "greasy" traces on my sensor. Did anybody have the same poor experience with this system ?

 

regards,

stef.

Countless times it's been said on LUF that the first two or three sensor cleans (apart from blowing dust off) should be a wet clean because shutters throw off oil. The only thing your Arctic Butterfly can do is spread the oil around and cause the smearing. It isn't the fault of the brush which is very good at sensor cleaning after the oil problem of a new camera has stopped.

 

 

Steve

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Unless you are within reach of a whilst-you-wait sensor cleaning service 24/7/365, it is essential to learn to clean it yourself. Otherwise you will have to brush up your postprocessing skills and be prepared to spend quite some more time behind the computer occasionally.

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Countless times it's been said on LUF that the first two or three sensor cleans (apart from blowing dust off) should be a wet clean because shutters throw off oil. The only thing your Arctic Butterfly can do is spread the oil around and cause the smearing. It isn't the fault of the brush which is very good at sensor cleaning after the oil problem of a new camera has stopped.

 

 

Steve

 

 

I find this thread very helpful. I have cleaned my Nikons occasionally....but I put up with a lot of dust....My dealer ruined my Nikon D1x showing me how to clean it (his hand not mine) $1500 repair in the 90's...he was nice enough to split it with me.

I did not know about the oil thing that huge ...I have seen all the YouTube videos...... Got any tips or real word advice on How To wet clean? My reluctancy comes from the repair cost of a Leica sensor .... not my inability to run a wet swab across the sensor.

I'm tired of retouching sky's and I miss f/8 ....advice and encouragement welcome.

Thanks

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I've been regularly cleaning my sensors for well over a decade.

 

And it's still a nightmare of a dog's dinner gone wrong.

 

Except in extreme cases which happen very rarely indeed, I now just give them a regular blow with that rubber rocket thingy and try not to worry about it.

 

I will say though, my M stays cleaner far longer than my M9 ever has, which makes life a lot easier.

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I have just been charged £50, but apparently, the standard charge is £40, so I will be getting £10 back on Monday.

 

I still think that's pretty steep for maybe 15 minutes work.

 

With a bit of planning manchester to Euston can often be done for less than £20 return. Sensor cleaning is free in Bruton street . Jimmy Hughes gave my 2 m9 ,s a clean and inspection last year to confirm the sensors where ok. Personally at £5000 a pop for a digital M the local dealer should offer at least 1 free clean per annum. It depends how much they want future business.

BrianP

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My dealer ruined my Nikon D1x showing me how to clean it (his hand not mine) $1500 repair in the 90's.

Got any tips or real word advice on How To wet clean?

I thought this was pretty interesting, as my own experience would indicate that it's extremely difficult to damage a sensor while wet cleaning.  Obviously I have no detailed information on this issue, but I'm frankly very surprised that a dealer could display this level of incompetience in a very simple operation.

 

Second, only a few things come to mind regarding my own successful cleanings, which I continue to maintain are a very easy process:

 

1) If you are using battery power rather than an A/C connection, make SURE it's fully charged.  You wouldn't want the shutter closing.

2)  Use a blower first.  If there's any loose hard scratchy stuff on there it's nice to get it off first before you touch anything.

3) Don't use too much fluid, it could leave streaks or leak into someplace you don't want it going.  The brand I use recommends 2 drops.

4) Use the right size swab

5) Don't press hard in case you might have done a sorry job on step 2. :)

6) Get as far into one side of the sensor as you can, tilt the sway at a slight angle, drag all the way across the sensor without stopping.

7) Without lifting the swab, turn it over in the opposite direction and sweep back where you started.

8) NEVER reuse a swab.

 

I'm down to the point where I can generally do a cleaning with one swab.  When I started it seemed like I needed an endless supply of $5 swabs to get it right, but I got better.  It's still cheaper than a dealer.

 

I have, very occasionally, found a glob of something sticky that took multiple cleanings to remove.

I have also had some clumps of stuff bunch up in a corner and not come out.  These really annoy me because I have to burn another sensor to get the most using just a corner of the swab.  I then have to do clean the whole thing again with another $5 swab because the corner thing probably left streaks.

 

I rather like the really old youtube video from Sensor Swabs, but there are probably a million good ones out there. 

 

I am still using the first brand of cleaning medium I ever tried.  Others swear by some of the other brands and I'm quite sure there are some very good products out there.  Potentially some better than the method I use.  It's just that the way I do it is so simple and effective I've never felt any motivation to experiment further.

 

I rather feel I must apologize for sounding so evangelical about learning to do your own cleanings, but I'm absolutely convinced it's such a simple, easy, effective, and relatively cheap process that it borders on being an essential skill.

 

Sermon ends here :)

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I have just been charged £50, but apparently, the standard charge is £40, so I will be getting £10 back on Monday.

 

I still think that's pretty steep for maybe 15 minutes work.

If it dulls the pain: NOK 850 (£69) incl 25% VAT, they do allow every 5th "free" if you prepay a block of four...

 

I've never used anything except an Arctic Butterfly on my M8, XPro1 and M, though I did recently get a Pentax lolly for picking off stuck bits.

 

Cheers, Carl

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I thought this was pretty interesting, as my own experience would indicate that it's extremely difficult to damage a sensor while wet cleaning.  Obviously I have no detailed information on this issue, but I'm frankly very surprised that a dealer could display this level of incompetience in a very simple operation.

 

Second, only a few things come to mind regarding my own successful cleanings, which I continue to maintain are a very easy process:

 

1) If you are using battery power rather than an A/C connection, make SURE it's fully charged.  You wouldn't want the shutter closing.

2)  Use a blower first.  If there's any loose hard scratchy stuff on there it's nice to get it off first before you touch anything.

3) Don't use too much fluid, it could leave streaks or leak into someplace you don't want it going.  The brand I use recommends 2 drops.

4) Use the right size swab

5) Don't press hard in case you might have done a sorry job on step 2. :)

6) Get as far into one side of the sensor as you can, tilt the sway at a slight angle, drag all the way across the sensor without stopping.

7) Without lifting the swab, turn it over in the opposite direction and sweep back where you started.

8) NEVER reuse a swab.

 

I'm down to the point where I can generally do a cleaning with one swab.  When I started it seemed like I needed an endless supply of $5 swabs to get it right, but I got better.  It's still cheaper than a dealer.

 

I have, very occasionally, found a glob of something sticky that took multiple cleanings to remove.

I have also had some clumps of stuff bunch up in a corner and not come out.  These really annoy me because I have to burn another sensor to get the most using just a corner of the swab.  I then have to do clean the whole thing again with another $5 swab because the corner thing probably left streaks.

 

I rather like the really old youtube video from Sensor Swabs, but there are probably a million good ones out there. 

 

I am still using the first brand of cleaning medium I ever tried.  Others swear by some of the other brands and I'm quite sure there are some very good products out there.  Potentially some better than the method I use.  It's just that the way I do it is so simple and effective I've never felt any motivation to experiment further.

 

I rather feel I must apologize for sounding so evangelical about learning to do your own cleanings, but I'm absolutely convinced it's such a simple, easy, effective, and relatively cheap process that it borders on being an essential skill.

 

Sermon ends here :)

 

 

Preach away!!!!!!  and Thank You 

I keep that scratched sensor and a reminder....local camera shop with bad help in the early days of digital.

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