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Risked life and limb to get this shot and the $7000 piece of crap let me down again

Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

By Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS
in Leica M (Type 240 / 262)

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What is the point of an 8 second exposure? You've already been told it is a 30 second exposure + that can replicate the problem. That the OP had the problem at only 8 seconds is possibly caused by hanging a great big heavy Noctilux off the front of the camera that opens the gap up, not a light weight 28mm lens. Good grief, will you ever read what's been said already?

 

Steve

 

I did read it! If it doesn't let in light at 8 seconds, it sure won't at half a second, will it!!

 

And I don't have a Noctilux, but if there is play between the Nocti and the M, then there's obviously a flaw with that particular combo… I've read many reviews of the Nocti and no one has mentioned this, so it's not an issue in all cases.

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Nor will it at 1/1000. You are quite astute.

 

Thanks for the complement.

 

Now while some of you painstakingly perform meticulous experiments with lights and scrunchies in the dark, I'm going to go out and shoot.

 

 

I still draw no further conclusions from this exhaustive thread, other than in some cases with some cameras, light will leak. It's certainly not in all cases, as my example unit doesn't exhibit it.

 

Nothing is perfect. I would get it fixed and not rely on a "scrunchie".

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Robbbin

Robbbin

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I'm horrified that the precision machining of this best in class body allows light leaks.

I have made the decision to dump all my Nikkor and Mamyia gear to fund the conversion to Leica, and now you folks are saying I need a hair band.... Tough thing for a bald guy to hear.

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MarkP

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I'm horrified that the precision machining of this best in class body allows light leaks.

I have made the decision to dump all my Nikkor and Mamyia gear to fund the conversion to Leica, and now you folks are saying I need a hair band.... Tough thing for a bald guy to hear.

 

Get a wife or daughter!

 

Seriously, this is only a problem in certain shooting situations. None of us have seen this is normal (or fairly abnormal) daily use but only with extended shutter times in direct sunlight such as with NDx10 filters where we are either trying to smooth out moving water or remove moving people from the scenery.

 

There is no way I'd dump my Leica gear for this. It just goes to show that any equipment can be pushed beyond it's limits but once we have (at least in this situation) the black fabric scrunchie saves the day.

 

I'd like to see Leica market the

Leica schwarzem stoff bezogen elastisches haarband-M for 50€.

Panasonic could also sell it with their logo for 5€

 

 

Now I'm also off to take some photos, NDx10 filter packed, and having again raided my daughters scrunchie jar for a spare schwarzem stoff bezogen elastisches haarband-M

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DigitalHeMan

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I did read it! If it doesn't let in light at 8 seconds, it sure won't at half a second, will it!!

 

 

 

And I don't have a Noctilux, but if there is play between the Nocti and the M, then there's obviously a flaw with that particular combo… I've read many reviews of the Nocti and no one has mentioned this, so it's not an issue in all cases.

 

 

You do realize that half a second is in fact different to the half a minute that we are discussing here. And in fact half a second is considerably shorter than half a minute? Just want to make sure we are all clear here......

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

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Now I'm also off to take some photos, NDx10 filter packed, and having again raided my daughters scrunchie jar for a spare schwarzem stoff bezogen elastisches haarband-M

Post um up later Mark +1
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jaapv

jaapv

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There is only one solution to this M Digital crap.....Lol

 

BRING BACK THE "R" SYSTEM.

 

Happy new year everyone.

 

Ken.

Try hanging a bloddy big tele in front of an R4…:mad: I had to have the bayonet flange bent back into true after each extended jaunt with the combination. CS used to have a special tool to measure the deformation. They would do it three times and replace the bodyshell after that…:o

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MarkP

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Try hanging a bloddy big tele in front of an R4…:mad: I had to have the bayonet flange bent back into true after each extended jaunt with the combination. CS used to have a special tool to measure the deformation. They would do it three times and replace the bodyshell after that…:o

 

But why wouldn't you 'try hanging an R off the end of a bloody big tele' to take the strain off the lens mount?

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hamey

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Try hanging a bloddy big tele in front of an R4…:mad: I had to have the bayonet flange bent back into true after each extended jaunt with the combination. CS used to have a special tool to measure the deformation. They would do it three times and replace the bodyshell after that…:o

 

I cannot speak to much on the R4, I once owned the R4 mot, broke down after 2 weeks, returned to

Good old Deutschland and got it back after 2 months, still got a few problems over the years untill I sold it, the R4s was better, never gave me any problems, same goes for the two R7's, R8 and the R9.

My SL is in a differant league, the people who built the Leicaflex's have retired or passed on. never to see

any more masterpeices from dear Leica any more.

 

My first M7 shutter button become stuck after a heavy bump, in for repairs, my 180mm 2.8 fell apart, now

Fixed so whats next to go???????.

 

I have to be a knuclehead to fork out 10.000$ Aus for a Leica M ,EVF, handgrip and a M to R adapter to

Couple up my R lenses to a 1954 camera.

 

As I have stated before, now have switched to Canon Digital and L lenses, so far NO PROBLEMS.

 

HAPPY NEW YEAR EVEARYONE.

 

Ken.

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250swb

250swb

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I did read it! If it doesn't let in light at 8 seconds, it sure won't at half a second, will it!!

 

Client to engineer

"Have you done all the necessary tests to ensure a 46 tonne lorry is safe to cross the new road bridge?"

 

'Engineer' to client

"No, why would I, I'm only going to walk across it!"

 

I'm beginning to think you aren't perhaps an engineer, because they are rare nowadays, and are instead the modern shadow of an engineer, what is known to the poor sods who have to deal with them as a 'fitter'. You exchange components until the machine works, just as you exchange the parameters of a test until it suits your requirements.

 

You proved :rolleyes: your camera is completely free of the light leak problem by testing it to the (lower) limit of how you use it. And you think that is the answer, and go around telling everybody else to get their cameras fixed. That is some engineering mind you have, one perfectly attuned to building a house of cards.

 

Steve

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jaapv

jaapv

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I cannot speak to much on the R4, I once owned the R4 mot, broke down after 2 weeks, returned to

Good old Deutschland and got it back after 2 months, still got a few problems over the years untill I sold it, the R4s was better, never gave me any problems, same goes for the two R7's, R8 and the R9.

My SL is in a differant league, the people who built the Leicaflex's have retired or passed on. never to see

any more masterpeices from dear Leica any more.

 

My first M7 shutter button become stuck after a heavy bump, in for repairs, my 180mm 2.8 fell apart, now

Fixed so whats next to go???????.

 

I have to be a knuclehead to fork out 10.000$ Aus for a Leica M ,EVF, handgrip and a M to R adapter to

Couple up my R lenses to a 1954 camera.

 

As I have stated before, now have switched to Canon Digital and L lenses, so far NO PROBLEMS.

 

HAPPY NEW YEAR EVEARYONE.

 

Ken.

I have owned the whole range from R3 up to R9 and the only ones that were stable enough to take a heavy lens on the mount during harsh use were the R3 and R8/9. Fortunately at the time I lived near the Leica importer Odin (its passing much regretted:() and they would bend the camera back into true whilst I had a natter, cup of coffee, looked at new products and from time to time parted with a bundle of cash…;)

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...

Why always these ugly, soft photos of waterfalls, which are to blame for this glitch?

Something like these are photographed only with medium format cameras, for which no high aperture lenses and high ISO films are available.

Drops and leaping trout must be taken with razor sharp 1/2000 second or faster.

Thanks to aperture 0.95 only in a very tiny area.

Who wants to have a softer or flowing picture, should just shake the camera during photographing or even better record a video.:D

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250swb

250swb

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Why always these ugly, soft photos of waterfalls, which are to blame for this glitch?

 

While I'd agree that there is a trend for the same long exposure picture to be made a million times by a million photographers all standing in the same spot, showing the flow of water does have a valid intellectual justification on a wider scale. Water goes somewhere, it flows, it carves the landscape, it is an elemental force that continues long after we all die, it is a contrast to the hard landscape. With a long exposure it reveals eddies, the current, it emphasises the dominance over rock by revealing the flow that carved it, it creates a spiritual connection to the timelessness of nature by showing the passing of time. I think its a bit low brow to say any of these things should no longer be in the language of photography just because technology has now given you an effing shutter speed of 1/2000th; although if trout photography is your specialisation fair enough, but some people want to see beyond their inner trout and work on more complicated sensations.

 

Steve

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