marknorton Posted March 7, 2013 Share #21 Posted March 7, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) Agreed, and also I find it annoying that the two options for the focus button are auto or manual, but not both. IMHO even in auto mode it should kick in the if press the button - there are times you want to check focus without changing it. - Steve It does kick in - set Focus Assist to Automatic and you can activate it by either pressing the front button or by turning the focussing ring slightly. It's that latter method which is the difference between Manual and Automatic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 7, 2013 Posted March 7, 2013 Hi marknorton, Take a look here The one thing about the M240 I don't like. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
kdriceman Posted March 7, 2013 Share #22 Posted March 7, 2013 You do realize that you can set the control for the exposure correction even on the M9, don't you? It does not have to be the wheel. Yes, I have changed my settings. If I'm going to use it I do like it on the wheel, but I just don't use it anymore as I just shoot manual, or as someone posted above, set exposure in A on an area of critical exposure, lock with a half press and recompose. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdannn Posted August 13, 2014 Share #23 Posted August 13, 2014 However, operationally one thing isn't so great and a definite step back, and that is the exposure compensation setting method. I often meter and then tweak the exposure just before I shoot, and the wheel on the M9 allows me to do that quickly and without contortions or taking the camera from my eye. On the M240, however, you have to hold the front button in while turning the thumbwheel. I would like it much better if the front button didn't have to be held in for the exposure compensation, and the thumbwheel could be used alone. Or maybe this setup could be a menu option. Henning Ok, here's your fix. It's easy and the camera will do exactly what you want. Ready? Go to the 'set' menu of the M. Once there scroll to Exposure Compensation. You will see that it is in the "off" position on the right of the screen. That's OK. Next, right click on the "joy stick circle" ( for lack of a better word for it), and that will take you to another screen and you will see an exposure compensation scale at the top. Leave that alone. You will also see a box that says, "Direct Adjustment" on the lower left of the screen. Leave that alone too. On the lower right of the screen you will see a box that says either, " on OR off". Click on that box and make sure it says, "ON" by either turning the thumb wheel or right clicking the round circle that surrounds the "info" button. Then push the "info" button. Then the camera will direct you back to the initial "set" menu and you will notice that the "exposure compensation" still says "OFF". That's OK. Leave it and exit the menu. Now you will be able to set exposure compensation ONLY using the thumb wheel and you will NOT have to push the button in front of the camera ever again. ALSO, now when you half press the shutter button the led in the rangefinder window will automatically tell you if exposure compensation is anything but ZERO. So for example if you do not have any exposure compensation set, when you half push the shutter button you will only see the shutter speed. If you do have for example the exposure compensation set to +0.3 ( now you can do that with just the thumb wheel), the led in the rangefinder window will display +0.3 once you half press the shutter button. Problem solved. Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaques Posted August 14, 2014 Share #24 Posted August 14, 2014 I agree that this function is not well implemented on the M. However I think the ISO change function is even worse and more of an issue for me: when you have a very large/heavy lens on the camera you want to hold the lens not the camera to reduce strain on the lens mount. However when you need to change the ISO you have to use both hands: how to hold the camera safely? You should be able to change ISO with one hand... The video button really NEEDS to be re-programmable if it is possible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdannn Posted August 14, 2014 Share #25 Posted August 14, 2014 I agree that this function is not well implemented on the M. However I think the ISO change function is even worse and more of an issue for me: when you have a very large/heavy lens on the camera you want to hold the lens not the camera to reduce strain on the lens mount. However when you need to change the ISO you have to use both hands: how to hold the camera safely? You should be able to change ISO with one hand... The video button really NEEDS to be re-programmable if it is possible. Hi, If you read my fix for the exposure compensation issue in my quote above, you will see it is solved. Best, Dan:) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted August 14, 2014 Share #26 Posted August 14, 2014 Was solved by FU 2.0.1.5 after the OP's question. Thanks for the explanation anyway . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Posted August 14, 2014 Share #27 Posted August 14, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) Plus 1 for reprogrammable movie button. I too don't especially like programmable buttons, but one shouldn't present a problem. I'm in two minds about this, given one of the reasons I move put my new Sony A7r into retirement and bought back into to Leica was it's simplicity. IMO programmable buttons would be a further step towards complexity and electronic wizardry which would be best left to the Japanese manufacturers to exploit for the benefit of those whom enjoy reading pages and pages of instructions on how to navigate the menu. That being said, for me, the M button is totally redundant and I've disabled it. I can, therefore, see merit in being able to put it to some alternative use. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlatkob Posted August 14, 2014 Share #28 Posted August 14, 2014 Customizable buttons are a great thing. My Canon and Olympus cameras are deeply customized. They are like bespoke cameras, customized to the way I work. As with any camera, one has to learn the camera. I regularly use the exposure compensation so I also regularly check it. The potential problem with pointing the camera at a lighter or darker area (as suggested above) is that it takes your eyes off the subject. With some subjects, that approach has disadvantages. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdannn Posted August 14, 2014 Share #29 Posted August 14, 2014 Was solved by FU 2.0.1.5 after the OP's question. Thanks for the explanation anyway . Actually it was not solved by the firmware upgrade. The upgrade might have made the setting default to "on". I am not sure of that. If you go to the menu and turn it to "off" then you will still need to push the button in front of the camera to adjust exposure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted August 14, 2014 Share #30 Posted August 14, 2014 Actually it was not solved by the firmware upgrade. The upgrade might have made the setting default to "on". I am not sure of that. If you go to the menu and turn it to "off" then you will still need to push the button in front of the camera to adjust exposure. It was solved insofar that you now can elect to use that function with or without pressing the button in front of the camera. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted August 14, 2014 Share #31 Posted August 14, 2014 Actually it was not solved by the firmware upgrade... Not sure to follow you here. Before FU 2.0.1.5, we had to push a button to do EV correction. Now we can do it directly by turning the thumb wheel. Quite a welcome uptade that most of us were expecting for a long time actually. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppyman Posted August 14, 2014 Share #32 Posted August 14, 2014 And my personal experience was that I was then accidentally using exposure correction when otherwise handling the camera. I turned that thumbwheel only option back off. I really welcomed the disabling of the movie button though as I would get some accidental movies as well Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 14, 2014 Share #33 Posted August 14, 2014 Customizable buttons are a great thing. My Canon and Olympus cameras are deeply customized. They are like bespoke cameras, customized to the way I work. As with any camera, one has to learn the camera. I regularly use the exposure compensation so I also regularly check it. The potential problem with pointing the camera at a lighter or darker area (as suggested above) is that it takes your eyes off the subject. With some subjects, that approach has disadvantages. Err...can't You see light and dark through the viewfinder? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlatkob Posted August 15, 2014 Share #34 Posted August 15, 2014 Err...can't You see light and dark through the viewfinder? Of course. The point was about someone who avoids using exposure compensation and looks for darker or lighter areas at which to point the camera in order to lock the settings. While they're searching for a lighter or darker area on which to lock the settings, they may be missing the photo. If, on the other hand, they use exposure compensation, they can view the subject the entire time that they are adjusting exposure compensation. Direct viewing of the subject tends to deliver better results if the moment is about to slip away. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted August 15, 2014 Share #35 Posted August 15, 2014 ...While they're searching for a lighter or darker area on which to lock the settings, they may be missing the photo. If, on the other hand, they use exposure compensation, they can view the subject the entire time that they are adjusting exposure compensation... Which is more distracting, watching the speedometer or looking for speed limit signs? I prefer keeping my eyes on the road personally but YMMV . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 15, 2014 Share #36 Posted August 15, 2014 Of course. The point was about someone who avoids using exposure compensation and looks for darker or lighter areas at which to point the camera in order to lock the settings. While they're searching for a lighter or darker area on which to lock the settings, they may be missing the photo. If, on the other hand, they use exposure compensation, they can view the subject the entire time that they are adjusting exposure compensation. Direct viewing of the subject tends to deliver better results if the moment is about to slip away. Sorry, I find that a bit strange. Searching for a dark or light area? Like they mislaid their glasses and are at attempting to find them? You can as well say that staring at the little red numbers change whilst you are fiddling with the thumb wheel is so distracting that you miss the shot. If you cannot get your exposure right well before you take your photograph you are better off using something with full automation and matrix metering. My objection to using exposure compensation is that you are guessing, not measuring. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FMB Posted August 15, 2014 Share #37 Posted August 15, 2014 Sorry, I find that a bit strange. Searching for a dark or light area? Like they mislaid their glasses and are at attempting to find them? You can as well say that staring at the little red numbers change whilst you are fiddling with the thumb wheel is so distracting that you miss the shot.If you cannot get your exposure right well before you take your photograph you are better off using something with full automation and matrix metering. My objection to using exposure compensation is that you are guessing, not measuring. +1, Jaap. I think the major reason for using exposure compensation is to have special conditions of light with permanent foregrounds and backgrounds in a photographic series or, due to a general compensation wanted to emphasize a high key or low key in a session. Francisco Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted August 15, 2014 Share #38 Posted August 15, 2014 I find the exposure compensation on the M240 extremely easy to use, especially now that I don’t have to do the finger gymnastics that my non-bending fingers really did not like. I find I often need to use compensation when using lenses wider than 28mm, as the light meter often picks up too much sky light, even in spot and you end up with very dark foregrounds. It is easier to use aperture priority than manual as you know very quickly just how much compensation you are dialling in. The new preview feature also works very well. Wilson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tietje Posted August 15, 2014 Share #39 Posted August 15, 2014 And my personal experience was that I was then accidentally using exposure correction when otherwise handling the camera. I turned that thumbwheel only option back off. I really welcomed the disabling of the movie button though as I would get some accidental movies as well Had both of those. Was completely unaware I was making a 10min movie of my kneecap at the same, while I was shooting away! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlatkob Posted August 15, 2014 Share #40 Posted August 15, 2014 Sorry, I find that a bit strange. Searching for a dark or light area? Like they mislaid their glasses and are at attempting to find them? You can as well say that staring at the little red numbers change whilst you are fiddling with the thumb wheel is so distracting that you miss the shot.If you cannot get your exposure right well before you take your photograph you are better off using something with full automation and matrix metering. My objection to using exposure compensation is that you are guessing, not measuring. If you are disagreeing with the search for a lighter or darker area, you are disagreeing with sm23221 in post #12, not with me. That post was recommending an alternative to using exposure compensation. Using exposure compensation is the same as measuring. It's measuring and then adding or subtracting. Manual exposure works the same way when one measures and then decides where to place the measurement. For example, you measure the sand and decide to place it on zone VI or you measure the sky and decide to place it on zone VIII, etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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