Jump to content

Leica MP in extreme cold?


Recommended Posts

Hello,

so far I can't share any experience since I have it just a couple of days, but from 15.2. - 15.3. I am doing a trip with a pulk sleed, ski and a tent in Lapland, I plan to use the MP along with my Nikon D3. So far I believe that the film in it self will be the weakest chain. I am also thinking of getting the Sekonic L398a as an exposure meter without battery, that way I don't have to depend on the small battery in the MP.

 

Greetings

 

muc_marlin

Link to post
Share on other sites

Whilst Ski touring in Alaska this year in similar conditions my OM1, which hasn't been serviced ever, had no problems. I would think the MP will be fine. I've heard of some having a CLA with low temperatures in mind (different lubricant). Probably the biggest risks are brittle film, and condensation should there be opportunity to take it indoors. To help avoid condensation leave it in your pack and allow it to warm up very gradually. I also used a Seikonic 308.

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

Back in the 1960s I used an M2 and M4 in upper Michigan in temperatures -20 to -30 F without problems (except for fogging over after comming indoors). Modern lubricants should be even better.

 

Winding slowly is good advice. We would sometimes get "lightning streaks" from static discharge from rewinding too fast.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone any experience of using a Leica MP in Lapland - temperature likely to be around -20C.

 

Thanks, David

 

I have shot all of my M bodies (M2/M4/M6ttl/M7) in temperatures as low as -28 C. No problems except my nose sticking to the metal.

 

Lithium batteries perform better in the cold, but beware that they will run down faster, if they get cold enough. Because of this I prefer the mechanical bodies for shooting in the extreme cold.

 

Be a little more gentle when you advance the film. Depending on how long the camera is exposed and how cold the film gets it may snap, if you advance it too vigorously. Static buildup should not be a problem with a modern film, but advancing slowly avoids that potential issue.

 

Condensation is your biggest problem. Put the camera in a ziplock bag and press the air out, before entering a building or area that is warmer than the outside. I sometimes cover or wrap the bagged camera in a jacket or hand towel, so it warms up more gradually. Seems to cause less condensation.

 

There are two opinions on where to carry the camera when outside. Some people just keep it in their bag or an outside pocket, away from your body. Ziplock when going inside. Others carry it inside their jacket on their body. Some people advise against this, because they say that if the camera gets cold enough when exposed, it will gather condensation when you place it next to your warm body. Personally I carry mine in my camera bag or outside jacket pocket (and ziplock it when going inside).

Link to post
Share on other sites

Two years ago I spent a whole day skiing at temperatures around -20C, I didn't do anything different than shooting as I do for any other occasion. Apart from the fact that the mp was very cold to the touch, the camera/film performed just as it should with no problems.

 

But you must take care when you go back insight, condensation is not good for camera, lens or film. Seal it in a bag and open only after temperature is the same as the room you are in.

Link to post
Share on other sites

...focus on preserving your film, David - if there is an "extreme cold weather" weak link in your MP set-up, it would be the film and, to a lesser extent, the battery for the in-built exposure meter.

 

MPs, in my personal experience, will happily fire away without any problems whatsoever at -23˚C. At this sort of temperature, treat your camera and film with common sense and there should not be a problem. Brittleness and condensation have already been mentioned by earlier posters.

 

Expect power for the in-built meter to get funky or conk out at around -15˚C (YMMV). Note that the meter will still function perfectly if powered at these temperatures, so if you have a way of keeping the batteries or camera warm (and thus functional), do so. I opted for a hand-held meter, which I tucked away until needed.

 

Good luck, and let us know how things pan out.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just wondering if you could load a film, stick it in the freezer at -21C, then after a few hours quickly expose the film before it warms up at a range of different speeds just to make sure the temperature is not slowing the shutter. Once developed this would give you a good indication that all was well or not.

Perhaps a daft idea but other more knowledgable people may want to comment.

 

Regards,

 

Nick.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I spent a day with Martin Hartley encouraging him to use Lightroom. We discussed his use of his MP in the Artic.

 

First, he had it winterised by Leica and didn't have any issues with the camera thereafter.

 

He kept the camera in his sleeping bag to keep it warmer.

 

He only used one film a day and only replaced the film inside his sleeping bag when it had warmed up.

 

He only exposed 30 frames per film to avoid taking the film to the end. The film is strong enough, but the adhesive on the tape attaching it to the spool is more vulnerable, The film can become detached and that's a he'll of an issue to fix in freezing temps.

 

Wiping the frost off his 28mm lens damaged the coating on the front element and it went back to Solms for re-coating.

 

Interesting to talk to him about all this and his images were just fantastic.

 

BTW, he'd previously tried a Canon 1D and the cold prevented it's reliability. After the 1D, he used an MF camera, but 12/16 frames a day were just not enough.

 

Gary.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I can't find support for it on Leica's site but BJP says the MP was tested to -35 (article about Martin Hartley).

 

According to this article, the MP was tested by Leica down to -35C (-31F). On the hot end of the spectrum, the MP's maximum operating temperature is +60C (+140F). That is according to Sherry Krauter.

 

That is a huge temperature range for a camera that has not been specially prepared for temperature extremes. Nikon DSLRs have an operating range of +32F to around +100F if memory serves me correctly.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...