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I tried the M with R adapter and EVF


stuny

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My M bayonet to Olympus mFT adapter arrived this morning. Horrible quality but what did I expect for the price (£11.69). The slots in the bayonet retaining lugs are not cut all the way through, so provide nothing in the way of spring compliance on the mount. The Leitax R to M adapter is obviously at the lower end of the size tolerances on the M mount but with proper springing on the female mount as on my M9, is still perfectly firm. On the M to mFT adapter it is really quite wobbly - so much for the bad news.

 

The really good news is that focusing the 80-200 Vario Elmar with the VF-2 is far better than I had hoped for. IMHO, it is at least as good as a Visoflex and even without focus peaking, when it is zoomed to 10X, the image pops in and out of focus over a tiny range of movement on a proper mechanical lens focus ring. The focus ring on my 80-200 is very free so you really need to rest the lens on something or have it on a tripod to focus. Wholly hand held is pretty much a no, no. Here is a photo and centre crop with the 80-200 at 200mm, rested on but not connected to a tripod, as I am still waiting for the support ring for the 80-200 to arrive. I am much more optimistic about the usability of the EVF than I was yesterday, when I was using it with the kit zoom on the Olympus EP-2 and its electrically actuated manual focus. I have not applied any sharpening to the .ORF files out of the Olympus and I was struggling to hold the camera steady, balanced on the tripod, so there will be some camera shake.

 

Wilson

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I have been trying a sterner test of electronic VF-2 focusing with my 560/5.6 Telyt-V using for the time being, until my copy of a 543195 adapter arrives, a Visoflex III with the mirror swung up. This is therefore an EFOV of an 1120mm lens on my Olympus EP-2. Where is the Duchess of Cambridge when you need her?

 

The focusing is very easy compared to using a Visoflex, when you zoom the VF-2 to 10X. There is none of the moving to just out of focus one way then the other and halving the end points to get optimum focus. You can spot the focus absolutely dead on and it's very quick with the Televit. The other upside is that you eliminate any maladjustment of the Visoflex and focus on the actual image you are taking, not an equivalent image on a ground glass screen. I am actually quite excited by the possibilities for macro, using bellows, etc etc. This is going to be great fun.

 

I won't bore you with posting more photos of my neighbour's house.

 

Wilson

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Sorry - should have added that I was doing back to back tests focusing the 560 Telyt with a chimney viewer on the Visoflex and then using the VF-2. No doubt in my mind, that zoomed VF-2 is more accurate. I could clearly see a small spider crawling over the bricks on my neighbours' house, which is around 80 metres or more away - amazing.

 

Wilson

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I am very much interested in the possibilities the Leica M will have on the macro side - will it work fine together with an Elmarit Macro 60 mm plus macro adapter and/or APO macro Extender 2x ? Will the focussing work well with Live View in this case or not ? Actually I am owning just the R Macro mentioned above of the R lens range and this will bee one key point if I stick to the M 9 or change to a M. In the meanwhile I use the R Macro lens together with a Novoflex adapter on my 5 D III. Near future will show, what expectations can be fulfilled by the M and to what extent and what not. Hope, we will know more by the end of January, when first final versions of the camera will be in hands of some people.

Edited by HeinzX
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Heinz,

 

Given how well it is working with various Leica lenses on my cheap little Olympus EP-2 (see above), I see no reason why you would not be delighted with the macro performance of the M-240. You will be amazed how accurately you can focus with 10X zoom.

 

Wilson

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Rick,

 

I know exactly what you mean. We had a wren come into the house yesterday. Real fun and games trying to catch it or shoo it out of the window, while simultaneously trying to prevent the cat getting it. They are supposed to be rare in the UK now but we seem to have dozens in our garden.

 

I agree that the M-240 will be far better suited to static or slower moving objects. I think catching a good image of fast moving objects and fauna easily, will still mainly be the province of the auto focus DSLR. I know Doug Herr has done very well over the years with R and Visoflex lenses but how many thousands of missed or throw away photos did he suffer to get the excellent results he did.

 

Wilson

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... I think catching a good image of fast moving objects and fauna easily, will still mainly be the province of the auto focus DSLR. I know Doug Herr has done very well over the years with R and Visoflex lenses but how many thousands of missed or throw away photos did he suffer to get the excellent results he did.

 

The question is not only how many did I throw away, but whether the keepers are good or are spectacular.

 

Rick's take on the subject a few years ago is worth a read: [Leica] Shootout - L vs N

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The question is not only how many did I throw away, but whether the keepers are good or are spectacular.

 

Rick's take on the subject a few years ago is worth a read: [Leica] Shootout - L vs N

 

Doug,

 

Rick spells out why in general I don't like AF and the only AF camera I have among 15, is the Olympus EP-2 I bought a few days ago, and even that is currently sitting with a CZ ZM 25 Biogon MF lens on it. However if I was taking wild life shots on a regular basis, I think I would go for AF and VR/IS on a long lens. Can't modern AF top end DSLR cameras focus bracket? I don't know because I don't have one.

 

Wilson

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... if I was taking wild life shots on a regular basis, I think I would go for AF and VR/IS on a long lens. Can't modern AF top end DSLR cameras focus bracket? I don't know because I don't have one.

 

IDK about AF focus bracket, but w.r.t. VR/IS, be careful what you wish for: [Leica] New M but this is a clear case of choosing the equipment that allows one to produce the desired results. If you want the good consistent results, get the AF and VR/IS equipment.

 

The internet is awash with a flood of good results enabled by AF and VR/IS. I want spectacular. Likewise gallery owners see far too many good photos and not enough spectacular. It's great fun watching as the gallery owner looks at the prints from the DMR & APO-Telyt :) They always comment on the detail and color quality, then ask what camera I'm using.

Edited by wildlightphoto
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We had a wren come into the house yesterday.

 

Wrens are trained to buzz wildly around inside peoples' houses until they locate the only handy camera, to then pose perfectly on it.

 

I know Doug Herr has done very well over the years with R and Visoflex lenses but how many thousands of missed or throw away photos did he suffer to get the excellent results he did.

 

I suspect that Doug's good/stunning vs trash ratio is quite high, noting the animal photographer tends not to press the shutter unless there's a good chance the first shot will be a good shot. There might not be a second shot. Better to let the critter get away in the hope it will return than to startle it with a once only dud shot.

 

Clearly this rule does not apply to Yowies, Big Foots, Bunyips and Nessies.

Edited by rick_dykstra
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I suspect that Doug's good/stunning vs trash ratio is quite high, noting the animal photographer tends not to press the shutter unless there's a good chance the first shot will be a good shot. There might not be a second shot. Better to let the critter get away in the hope it will return than to startle it with a once only dud shot.

 

One technique I use when the opportunity presents itself is to make a few dud exposures at a distance the animal considers 'safe' so that it will learn that the sound and flipping mirror (visible through the lens) are not a threat. As I move closer I'll make a few more exposures to reinforce the lesson, so when using this technique I do end up with lots of trash.

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One technique I use when the opportunity presents itself is to make a few dud exposures at a distance the animal considers 'safe' so that it will learn that the sound and flipping mirror (visible through the lens) are not a threat. As I move closer I'll make a few more exposures to reinforce the lesson, so when using this technique I do end up with lots of trash.

 

Wildlife photography is hunting without the blood. Herr-stalking is the method I followed to eventually get the shot that is my avatar - gradually sneaking closer and closer to the star stake that all the flame robins were landing on, moving my 800mm/tripod/stabiliser rig by a foot every few shots. When I started I never thought I'd get so close. It was a nice day to spend a few hours slowly crawling on my knees across an isolated clearing high up in a national park. Doug is smarter than me and uses Leica's best lens*, the 280/4, to stay upright and agile. An alternative that's a lot easier (lazier :D ) is setting up a 'hochsitz' like a German hunter. I can melt chocolate in my mouth and nod off in my chair, warmed by perfect autumn or spring sunshine. The trick is to get the birdies to come to me. Sometimes I tell the thornbills to go and get all the other birds and sometimes they do. :)

 

With respect to using an M-240 for this instead of an R body, I must say I'm intrigued by the point made by Wilson above, that the EVF will provide a view of what is actually hitting the sensor rather than a possibly misaligned view of what hit a mirror and then a ground-glass screen. Focussing accuracy is really important when working at 560, 800, 1120 or 1600mm. And further, a Canon 5D III or Nikon D800 will not help me here in the way an M-240 will - their viewfinders (and sub-optimal optical viewfinders at that) still use mirror reflex focussing. Hmmm ... this could be a game changer for long lens photography.

 

* Doug - I wrote 'Leica's best lens' because it's theirs, not yours. They've allocated it to you for the moment but it's my turn next. :p

 

Here's the flame robin, taken by heavy-duty 800mm Herr-stalking.

 

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And getting this yellow robin with an 1120mm (800x1.4) would have been easier with sensor-reality focussing via an M-240 and EVF.

 

Edited by rick_dykstra
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Wow, Rick, those are superb shots!

 

I agree with your expectations about using the M-240's EVF but I would add that I've been doing the same with my 5D II, R lenses and LiveView for quite some time now by using a Seagull viewfinder (loup) that clips over the LCD screen and enables it to be used like a ground glass screen. An added benefit for your work I would think would be that the mirror is 'permanently' locked up so there's no mirror slap to scare the 'wee boidies' or shake the camera.

 

Pete.

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With respect to using an M-240 for this instead of an R body, I must say I'm intrigued by the point made by Wilson above, that the EVF will provide a view of what is actually hitting the sensor rather than a possibly misaligned view of what hit a mirror and then a ground-glass screen...

 

I'm intrigued for the very same reasons and more than a little concerned about overall system lag particularly with wrens and warblers and kinglets whose internal clocks operate on a frequency a couple of orders of magnitude faster than mine. Experience more than anything else will tell how suitable it is.

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