M lens codes

[Grimmlord Blakk]

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What would happen if I put a Japanese market release “C” coded m lens on my uk purchased Monochrom 246 body? Asking for a friend, lol

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[lct]

1 hour ago, Grimmlord Blakk said:

What would happen if I put a Japanese market release “C” coded m lens on my uk purchased Monochrom 246 body? Asking for a friend, lol

Do you mean a ZM (Cosina Zeiss) lens like C Biogon 35/2.8 by example? If so they can be hand coded on a recessed part of the flange. Same way as on this VM (Cosina Voigtlander) 35/2 lens.

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[Timothy Love]

This little thing looks nice

[wlaidlaw]

Somewhere I have a template tool made by Tim Isaacs (Thumbs Up) for marking the codes on lens mounts. I need to find it as the code on the LTM to M ring on my 50 Summilux III Special Edition has become smudged and is reading as a 35/1 4 ASPH Summilux instead of a 50/1.4 pre-ASPH Summilux. 

Wilson

[LocalHero1953]

Has anyone tried one of these cheap replacement bayonet mounts with 6-bit coding recesses?

I have a Summilux-M 75 that I want to get coded so it will be properly identified with a Leica adapter on my SL2-S. Skyllaney are not taking bookings till next year, and it occurred to me that a DIY job would, theoretically, be simple.

[wlaidlaw]

Paul,

I had various lenses done by Malcolm Taylor but given his current work rate, not practically an option nowadays. I am a bit concerned as I have had no reply on my last two phone calls and he has now had my 250FF Reporter for 4 years. I am not convinced how well made these mounts are. I bought a mid priced LTM to M ring and the thickness varied from .94 mm to .96mm rather than the 1.00mm it should be. The Summilux 75 needs to be really accurately mounted. Can't you manually select the lens, like you can on an M10-R. 

Wilson

 

[lct]

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1 hour ago, LocalHero1953 said:

Has anyone tried one of these cheap replacement bayonet mounts with 6-bit coding recesses?

I have a Summilux-M 75 that I want to get coded so it will be properly identified with a Leica adapter on my SL2-S. Skyllaney are not taking bookings till next year, and it occurred to me that a DIY job would, theoretically, be simple.

Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't but a perfect accuracy is a matter of luck, especially on lenses with thin DoF like Summicron 90/2 or Summilux 75/1.4. My 75/1.4 is not coded but i used a China made flange on my 90/2 v3 and it works fine TBH. BTW on both these lenses there is screw head in the way of the 6-bit sensor. Here on 90/2 v3.

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[LocalHero1953]

11 minutes ago, lct said:

BTW on both these lenses there is screw head in the way of the 6-bit sensor. Here on 90/2 v3.

Do you mean that the replacement flange has to omit one screw?

The price of the 3rd party flange is so low it is worth getting it for use of the lens on the SL2-S until I can find someone to code the original, and check calibration for use on a M.

Edited December 3, 2022 by LocalHero1953

[lct]

Just now, LocalHero1953 said:

Do you mean that the replacement flange has to omit one screw?

Yes as you can (partly) see on the pics above.

[wlaidlaw]

Paul, 

When I have had this problem on for example early Zeiss ZM lenses, I filled the screw head in with Tippex. Once it has hardens (leave it longer than you think as the solvent cannot evaporate through the metal), I then used a very sharp scalpel to shave the Tippex plane with the flange. You can then paint a black coding mark on the top using the Isaacs M-Coder as LCT shows above. If I find my M-Coder tomorrow (I have a horrible feeling it may be sitting in France and after I have recoded my two special edition LTM lens M rings (50 Summicron 5SE and 50 Summilux IIISE), I could send it to you to do your 75 Summilux. 

Wilson

PS I have found that some 6 bit sensors are fussier than others e.g. the M240. On some you have to paint the background white as they don't see polished aluminium or chrome as white or Zero. W

Edited December 3, 2022 by wlaidlaw

[LocalHero1953]

17 minutes ago, wlaidlaw said:

Paul, 

When I have had this problem on for example early Zeiss ZM lenses, I filled the screw head in with Tippex. Once it has hardens (leave it longer than you think as the solvent cannot evaporate through the metal), I then used a very sharp scalpel to shave the Tippex plane with the flange. You can then paint a black coding mark on the top using the Isaacs M-Coder as LCT shows above. If I find my M-Coder tomorrow (I have a horrible feeling it may be sitting in France and after I have recoded my two special edition LTM lens M rings (50 Summicron 5SE and 50 Summilux IIISE), I could send it to you to do your 75 Summilux. 

Wilson

PS I have found that some 6 bit sensors are fussier than others e.g. the M240. On some you have to paint the background white as they don't see polished aluminium or chrome as white or Zero. W

Wilson - that would be very kind!
Paul

[Rico]

Hi

I recently bought a M11 and ran into the 6-bit coding issue with some lenses.

I found a great model for a template for 3d printing here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3728955

You can just print it yourself or order a print online. I'm living in Switzerland so I ordered at https://www.teil3.ch/ but I guess any other would do as well. I payed like 30,- CHF including shipping. The print came out great and there was no need to clean it.

I used a sharpie to mark the black "bits" through the mask and then a black and white POSCA pen for the final "dot" after removing the template.

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Works great on the CV 50mm f/2 APO-Lanthar (my first not so nice looking but working try)

and the Zeiss 35mm f/1.4 ZM

What I noticed with the 35mm f/1.4 is to not "merge" multiple black dots into one long bar. Seems to be better if all the bits are clearly separated.

Hope this helps 😄
Rico

[ianforber]

19 hours ago, Rico said:

Hi

I recently bought a M11 and ran into the 6-bit coding issue with some lenses.

I found a great model for a template for 3d printing here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3728955

You can just print it yourself or order a print online. I'm living in Switzerland so I ordered at https://www.teil3.ch/ but I guess any other would do as well. I payed like 30,- CHF including shipping. The print came out great and there was no need to clean it.

I used a sharpie to mark the black "bits" through the mask and then a black and white POSCA pen for the final "dot" after removing the template.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Works great on the CV 50mm f/2 APO-Lanthar (my first not so nice looking but working try)

and the Zeiss 35mm f/1.4 ZM

What I noticed with the 35mm f/1.4 is to not "merge" multiple black dots into one long bar. Seems to be better if all the bits are clearly separated.

Hope this helps 😄
Rico

Very helpful!

I’m new to 3D printing and it seems there are many options of material. Which one did you use and do you have any other advice on making sure the printed product is fit for purpose?

Thanks

[Rico]

15 minutes ago, ianforber said:

Very helpful!

I’m new to 3D printing and it seems there are many options of material. Which one did you use and do you have any other advice on making sure the printed product is fit for purpose?

Thanks

I used the following settings for the print:

• Material: PETG
• Color: transparent (but can be anything I guess)
• Filling: normal
• Layer thickness: 0.1mm
• Support structure: remove yourself (there is none so it's not needed to do anything here)

There are also some print settings on the thingiverse page.

I also noticed this morning that the black color of the POSCA pens does not hold on the metal very well and flakes off after fully drying (>12h). The white sticks better but I will trust those any more.

I'm now trying out some decor lacquer I put on as thin as possible with a small wooden toothpick. 🙈

[rsolomon]

On 12/30/2022 at 12:34 PM, Rico said:

I used the following settings for the print:

• Material: PETG
• Color: transparent (but can be anything I guess)
• Filling: normal
• Layer thickness: 0.1mm
• Support structure: remove yourself (there is none so it's not needed to do anything here)

There are also some print settings on the thingiverse page.

I also noticed this morning that the black color of the POSCA pens does not hold on the metal very well and flakes off after fully drying (>12h). The white sticks better but I will trust those any more.

I'm now trying out some decor lacquer I put on as thin as possible with a small wooden toothpick. 🙈

please let us know how all turns out, anyone get this printed yet in the US , if so could you share where.... thanks 

[ianforber]

9 hours ago, rsolomon said:

please let us know how all turns out, anyone get this printed yet in the US , if so could you share where.... thanks 

I had the template printed successfully by a UK printer on Etsy. I then used it with the Posca pens , trying first to mark the black and white bits with Pilot fine tip markers. Disaster. All I ended up with was a lot of smeared white paint over the lens flange. The problem is almost certainly my technique - I probably should’ve just left the template on the lens for hours before using the Posca pens, which I used while the template was still attached, but I gave up as I didn’t want to spend all afternoon wiping paint residue off the lens. 

The template itself was fine. Gave an easy way to identify where to paint the codes. 

[lct]

19 minutes ago, ianforber said:

I had the template printed successfully by a UK printer on Etsy. I then used it with the Posca pens , trying first to mark the black and white bits with Pilot fine tip markers. Disaster. All I ended up with was a lot of smeared white paint over the lens flange. The problem is almost certainly my technique - I probably should’ve just left the template on the lens for hours before using the Posca pens, which I used while the template was still attached, but I gave up as I didn’t want to spend all afternoon wiping paint residue off the lens. 

The template itself was fine. Gave an easy way to identify where to paint the codes. 

You may wish to forget white coding bits. I must have a dozen hand coded lenses, none of them having white bits actually, and they all work perfectly. If i may suggest a simple tip, just put the template, mark the black bits with any black marker, let dry, remove the template and apply black paint over the black bits directly. Let dry again and it should work as well as it does for me. CV 35/1.4 below.

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[ianforber]

Yeah, I’ve persuaded myself to have another go but to try it out first on a Minolta MD to Leica M adapter to get the hang of it. If it doesn’t work, at least I can fit my MD lens to the M11!

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[catacore]

On 9/15/2021 at 4:11 PM, cp995 said:

For the Nokton 1.5 50mm asph. II it looks like this:

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Indeed very easy to code

Tried myself last night to copy the setup from this picture (by not using a template, instead I tried to approximate the distance between the black mark and the "C" from Cosina), but it did not work on my M240. Picture below.

 

Am I missing something?

 

 

 

Edited January 26, 2023 by catacore

[lct]

50 minutes ago, catacore said:

Am I missing something?

If the code you're after is that of the Summilux 50/1.4 asph, the black bit has to look like this. Yours is too thick i suspect. Better use a template to avoid errors anyway.

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