Jump to content

Exposure Estimate


Stealth3kpl

Recommended Posts

Just checked some pictures from my M9 in time square last december: f 2,8 at 1/30 iso 400

 

If I were you I should buy a light meter.

 

Just a few bugs for hudreds of perfect pictures.

 

Fgcm

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fgcm: maybe there's no such thing as a perfect picture! Isn't it amazing how close the estimates above came to your M9 without their even being there? :)

 

Personally, I'd love to go "commando" (i.e. light-meterless) with an M2 in Times Square any day (or night)!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just checked some pictures from my M9 in time square last december: f 2,8 at 1/30 iso 400

 

If I were you I should buy a light meter.

 

Just a few bugs for hudreds of perfect pictures.

 

Fgcm

 

I have a Seikonic 308 but I like to have an idea in mind of what exposure to expect. This situation isn't ideally suited to an incident lighting (I want the streets dark), and a reflective reading may be too easily fooled. It would be useful to hear of others experience here. Times Square is somewhere thousands of photographs have been taken. Perhaps someone has hit on their "perfect" exposure with Portra 400.

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've found F2 at 1/60 to provide a generous exposure at ISO 400 (M8 digital) in that part of town. This corresponds pretty closely to your 1/15 at F5.6 for a conservative exposure though I'd be tempted to err towards overexposure with colour neg.

Link to post
Share on other sites

New Years Eve in Times Square will probably have a different optimal exposure from other nights. BTW , with an older M I'd definitely use the Fred Parker Ultimate Exposure Calculator, or bracket a few shots.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Pete,

 

2 solutions:

 

1. Ask Stuart Nordheimer who works a few minutes walk from Times Square & has probably taken more pictures day, evening & nite in Manhattan than many other people here.

 

2. Using your 308:

 

Meter what is important to see if everything you want to record falls within the latitude of the film you want to use.

 

If it doesen't either use a different film or meter what falls within that latitude.

 

Then:

 

Find the range of Zones that you want to capture that fall within the latitude of the film you want to use.

 

Meter anything within those Zones.

 

Adjust your exposure to compensate: For example: If what is important is betweeen Zones III & VII, & what you are able to measure is a Zone VII, then: Meter the Zone VII subject & add 2 stops of exposure to what the meter says.

 

A piece of cake.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Link to post
Share on other sites

2. Using your 308:

 

Meter what is important to see if everything you want to record falls within the latitude of the film you want to use.

 

If it doesen't either use a different film or meter what falls within that latitude.

 

Then:

 

Find the range of Zones that you want to capture that fall within the latitude of the film you want to use.

 

Meter anything within those Zones.

 

Adjust your exposure to compensate: For example: If what is important is betweeen Zones III & VII, & what you are able to measure is a Zone VII, then: Meter the Zone VII subject & add 2 stops of exposure to what the meter says.

 

A piece of cake.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

 

+1

 

This is The way to use a meter.

 

Try! :)

 

Fgcm

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Pete,

 

You can hold your film cartridge w/ the little end that sticks out pointing down, as you would when you are putting it in the camera, & make note of the colors of the 6 little squares in 2 lines.

 

Tell us what those readings are & I will tell you about the film.

 

OR: You can you can read EKTAR 100 RATED AT 80 by ATOURNAS on 26 Sep 11 in the Film Forum which is an explanation of DX coding & what it means in terms of the film in the cartridge as well as why electronc shuttered cameras want to read it & what they do w/ it.

 

OR: You can read MODERN PHOTOGRAPHY from June 1983 where DX coding is explained to a certain extent. This article also includes a chart so you can decipher the DX coding on any fim cartridge, etc.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Seikonic 308 but I like to have an idea in mind of what exposure to expect. This situation isn't ideally suited to an incident lighting (I want the streets dark), and a reflective reading may be too easily fooled. It would be useful to hear of others experience here. Times Square is somewhere thousands of photographs have been taken. Perhaps someone has hit on their "perfect" exposure with Portra 400.

Pete

 

Do multiple readings on highlights and on lowlights and then expose somewhere in between. Where in between ultimately depends from your subject and what you care to emphasize.

 

Cheers,

Bruno

Link to post
Share on other sites

all the above suggestions, there is one more thing. kodak used to include in the film some paper that had all sorts of technical info on it but also recommended exposures for different situations for those films -- and the situations were pretty broad (stage performances, sports, fireworks, etc). my guess is you can find it on the internet some place. they are pretty good settings and if you are going to scan the negatives anyway, they will certainly get you close enough to tweak on our computer.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...