M9 FW v1.116 available...

[Jerry_R]

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Looks like the red edge is not fixed, at least not with the 21 Elmarit Asph:mad:

What you and other people inform - is terrible and takes trust away from LEICA...

 

I could be angry if they would not address something. But if they say that it was corrected, but isn't - that is very, very bad...

 

Anyway, I still do not loose hope and wait for more opinions and samples.

[matlep]

Over in ther German language part of the forum, Gertrud Waechter reported she had fixed the issue by turning off auto power off and setting the display brightness to “standard“. When she subsequently returned to the original settings the fix persisted. YMMV etc. but worth trying out.

 

I have the same issue. The suggested fix didn´t work for me. Did anyone else try it with any luck?

[noah_addis]

Can you please post examples - perhaps of a before/after test?

 

I never saved my 'before' samples. In hindsight it would have been smart to shoot a before/after test but I guess I was silly to trust Leica when they said the problem was fixed.

 

Here's an 'after' just shot with a 21 elmarit asph, converted with as-shot WB in ACR, and I picked a point in the center and zeroed the A and B channels. This is the same method I used for testing before, and the results look similar.

 

It has nothing to do with shooting white walls. I never shot a lens test in my life before going on this adventure with Leica digital. I mostly try to shoot in overcast light conditions or soft light because I like the look, and the red edge is very visible under those conditions, both in sky areas as well as things with neutral colors like pavement, buildings, etc.

 

Incidentally, my earlier tests of the 28 Summicron showed decent results, but I was editing some real-world work the other day and several frames showed the red edge, and it was a pain to fix.

 

I'm beyond disappointed. I'll do some more careful tests later and also check the 28 'Cron but this is not good news.

 

The other improvements are OK I guess, the faster formatting is nice but that was my most minor complaint about the camera.

 

The zooming is still not perfect. If you zoom to the maximum right after taking a photo the image is till jaggy, and even when the photo is done writing it stays jaggy until you zoom out and back in again. The panning when zoomed is now very sluggish. My used D200 I got for $500 does a better job in review and zoom speed.

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[k-hawinkler]

But not when powered off which is what Derek suggested I think. And it doesn't happen here.

 

It still comes on on my M9 when powered off with latest FW.

[UliWer]

...Anyway, I still do not loose hope and wait for more opinions and samples.

 

If you have one of the lenses which have shown the red edges in certain situations before and a M9 and if you have loaded the new firmware, you could show us your results. This would be very helpful.

[wlaidlaw]

And hey - how many of us spend our time photographing white walls?

 

Well Chris if you have an easier way of checking the continuing presence of M9 red edge in bright sunlight colour temperature with the WATE, perhaps you would let us know.

 

Whenever you have a pale left edge on the WATE, there is the horrible vignetting and red edge. It doesn't just appear on white walls! Snow, sand, pale interiors and even people in pale clothes show it.

 

Wilson

[wparsonsgisnet]

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I never saved my 'before' samples...Here's an 'after' just shot ....

 

You can get a before by reloading the previous copy of the sw.

[wparsonsgisnet]

I did have to reformat the card I was using before.

 

Jaap, the in-use card in the camera continues to work for me.

 

did you have trouble with the M9 recognizing an empty card?

[chriscove]

Chris,

What lens setting are you using for your Zeiss 18? I just got that lens this week.

Thanks,

Pete

 

I had been using the WATE 18 but found little difference with it uncoded. I am going to try the 21/2.8 since that seems to work better with the CV 15 and has been changed by the new firmware.

[chris_tribble]

Chris,

What lens setting are you using for your Zeiss 18? I just got that lens this week.

Thanks,

Pete

18mm M Elmarit

[3rdtrick]

Thank You, Chris and Chris..

 

I just upgraded my firmware. I downloaded from the direct link posted earlier so I did not have the instruction sheet. I have upgraded other cameras so I copied the file to my SD card thought I would be able to figure it out in the menu. When I fired up the camera, it saw the file and asked me if I wanted to upgrade and I said yes. That was easy...

 

Well the zooming of the pics is much faster. Haven't been able to check out anything else but that made the upgrade worthwhile.

Pete

[jaapv]

So you were as stupid as I was and skipped the 3 secs wait . It didn't matter, the upgrade went fine.

[D&A]

For those that are using the Zeiss 18mm on the M9...there are generally two ways to go (at least initially) with coding this lens. Most Zeiss 18mm's came stock with a lens mount that brought up the 50/75mm framelines. Obviously these lenses can be coded as a Leica SE18mm . Prior to Leica releasing their 18mm, quite a few Zeiss 18mm were available stock with the 28/90 framelines, so that those with an M8 (and M9 too), could code their Zeiss18mm's as a WATE (18mm), which worked great on the M8...and also the M9, abeit with some red edge issues on the M9.

 

What some would like to eventially know, is whether now with the new firmware, it's more effective to code the Zeiss18mm as a Leica SE18mm or WATE in terms of reducing incidence of red edge. Of course whichever coding for this lens is more effective, the coorisponding lens mount will be needed in order to bring up the proper frame lines.

 

Dave (D&A)

[chris_tribble]

Well Chris if you have an easier way of checking the continuing presence of M9 red edge in bright sunlight colour temperature with the WATE, perhaps you would let us know.

 

Whenever you have a pale left edge on the WATE, there is the horrible vignetting and red edge. It doesn't just appear on white walls! Snow, sand, pale interiors and even people in pale clothes show it.

 

Wilson

Hands up - I apologise for being flippant - it is serious - and I can see the red edge on my 21 pre-asph too...

[chris_tribble]

What some would like to eventially know, is whether now with the new firmware, it's more effective to code the Zeiss18mm as a Leica SE18mm or WATE in terms of reducing incidence of red edge. Of course whichever coding for this lens is more effective, the coorisponding lens mount will be needed in order to bring up the proper frame lines.

 

Dave (D&A)

 

To clarify - my ZM has the appropriate mount to allow coding as the Elmarit. We can check which settings work best by manual setting the lens - I'll have a go at this when I have a moment.

[digitalfx]

Over in ther German language part of the forum, Gertrud Waechter reported she had fixed the issue by turning off auto power off and setting the display brightness to “standard“. When she subsequently returned to the original settings the fix persisted. YMMV etc. but worth trying out.

 

Tried this, but no love here.

[noah_addis]

You can get a before by reloading the previous copy of the sw.

 

Perhaps I would if I thought the problem had gotten worse. I don't. But it does seem pretty much the same. I don't generally like to go backwards in FW and it's not worth the trouble.

 

The fact is the camera with the old FW didn't do what I wanted it to do. And with the new FW it still doesn't do what I want it to do.

[chriscove]

For those that are using the Zeiss 18mm on the M9...there are generally two ways to go (at least initially) with coding this lens. Most Zeiss 18mm's came stock with a lens mount that brought up the 50/75mm framelines. Obviously these lenses can be coded as a Leica SE18mm . Prior to Leica releasing their 18mm, quite a few Zeiss 18mm were available stock with the 28/90 framelines, so that those with an M8 (and M9 too), could code their Zeiss18mm's as a WATE (18mm), which worked great on the M8...and also the M9, abeit with some red edge issues on the M9.

 

What some would like to eventially know, is whether now with the new firmware, it's more effective to code the Zeiss18mm as a Leica SE18mm or WATE in terms of reducing incidence of red edge. Of course whichever coding for this lens is more effective, the coorisponding lens mount will be needed in order to bring up the proper frame lines.

 

Dave (D&A)

 

Thanks Dave, mine brings up the 28/90 framelines and I have been using the 18 WATE. Still red edge but it really is not too bad. I do find that is easier to leave uncoded and use cornerfix because I often forget to change the lens detection back to auto I would like to get the lens coded though.

[glenerrolrd]

For those that are using the Zeiss 18mm on the M9...there are generally two ways to go (at least initially) with coding this lens. Most Zeiss 18mm's came stock with a lens mount that brought up the 50/75mm framelines. Obviously these lenses can be coded as a Leica SE18mm . Prior to Leica releasing their 18mm, quite a few Zeiss 18mm were available stock with the 28/90 framelines, so that those with an M8 (and M9 too), could code their Zeiss18mm's as a WATE (18mm), which worked great on the M8...and also the M9, abeit with some red edge issues on the M9.

 

What some would like to eventially know, is whether now with the new firmware, it's more effective to code the Zeiss18mm as a Leica SE18mm or WATE in terms of reducing incidence of red edge. Of course whichever coding for this lens is more effective, the coorisponding lens mount will be needed in order to bring up the proper frame lines.

 

Dave (D&A)

 

They never make it easy. First we convert the zeiss mount to use the WATE code and now to even test the SE18 code we have to convert back. The WATE only has a small problem with the RED corner and both the Zeiss and the Leica SE have a significant problem.

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[Alnitak]

As I pointed out last night, the 21/2.8 ASPH is still problematic. Here's a shot from last night of a white wall, tungsten light, AWB, corrected in post with Aperture 3 and the eyedropper.

 

 

Now a shot from today; mixed light both diffuse sunlight and fluorescent, Fluorescent 1 preset WB, +2EV, WB corrected slightly in post with Aperture 3 eyedropper.

 

 

Not as bad as tungsten light, but still problematic. I don't see this as an improvement over the previous situation in any way. Luckily I don't shoot a lot of light subjects where I notice this in real-world shooting, but in those cases where I do, I'm not going to be happy.

 

Jeff