135mm APO-Telyt handheld

[mirekti]

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I really drool over the lens in the title. I kept myself away from it for a while, but I believe I won't be able to resist and eventually buy this lens.

I already have a magnifier which makes it easier for me to focus 75mm cron so I won't have issues with the frame lines' size or focusing. This is my assumption, but I believe if I can focus 75mm even without the magnifier pretty well, 135mm should be fine.

 

What concerns me is whether one needs to have really steady hands for this lens?

I mean, my hands are not shaking, but on the other hand they are not super still.

[MarkP]

Yes one really needs to be steady to get the most out of this lens.

 

I also try to shoot at the maximum shutter speed wherever possible. This used to be a problem nailing the focus at wider apertures, but focusing at 3.4 with the EVF on the M240 has completely solved this problem.

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[algrove]

There is no substitute for a steady tripod and a cable release in my book.

[Bill W]

I think that you will find that it is not that difficult to hold this lens steady. At least it was not for me. I am almost 65 and find it is a comfortable fit on the MM. You know you want it so just do it.

[MarkP]

I agree that tripod with cable release, or using the 12 sec shutter timer, is better but that isn't always possible.

 

I should add that focusing even with the M optical VF is an improvement over the M9. Can't comment on the film Ms

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello Everyone,

 

A small, solid, table tripod with soft, non-marking slippers on its feet, with a large ball head & a cable release against a tree or a rock, against the inside or top of a doorway, against a wall, a car with its engine turned off or even on a table top: Gives you all of the stability you need for an exposure of any length.

 

Sometmes you have a very different picture when you use F16 at 1 second than the same scene taken at F4 at 1/15. Even on a table.

 

Aginst my chest with the table tripod with soft, non-marking slippers on its feet, large ball head & cable release I get +1 stop of stability.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

[mirekti]

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There is no substitute for a steady tripod and a cable release in my book.

 

The thing is, I wouldn't like to end up using this lens only in above mentioned combination.

Of course, in case of some magnificant landscape and the tripod on my shoulder I won't mind putting the camera on it. However, there will certanly be many situations where I won't have the tripod on me, but the lens will be in the bag.

I checked some of my photos and some 90% shoot with 75mm cron @1/45s look fine when I do 100% crop in Lightroom. I hope this is steady enough.

I know this is silly for asking, but I never had a lens over 100mm that was without IS.

[MarkP]

You will NOT get a sharp image with a 135mm lens at 1/45 sec.

[MarkP]

I really drool over the lens in the title

 

Oh, and I forgot to mention that drool on the front or rear element will not make for a sharp image

[sillbeers15]

With M240, you only need to push the ISO to 800 to obtain decent shutter speed with F3.4 using EVF to focus.

 

With the same technique, I shot the pics below with Vario Elmar 80-200mm @F4:

 

Butterfly-2 by sillbeers15

[Peter H]

I used to use this lens very happily and successfully with my M6 without a tripod, and i'm not one of those people who is always rock-steady at low shutter speeds. Keep the shutter speed up and take due care and you should be fine: it's certainly worth the small effort involved. It's a beautiful lens.

Edited October 17, 2013 by Peter H

[pgk]

You will NOT get a sharp image with a 135mm lens at 1/45 sec.

Never say never! I'd rather suggest that the hit rate will be low;). I've often surprised myself at obtaining 'sharp' images at lower shutter speeds than I would normally expect to do so at. If there is no other way of taking the shot then try it is my modus operandi on this sort of 'rule'.

 

That said I still find that the reciprocal of the focal length is a reasonable enough rule to follow and for a 135mm on a Leica this is between 1/125s and 1/250s which will often yield an acceptable image.

 

For those who believe that a tripod is absolutely essential for sharp images then I'm afraid that you are wrong:eek: because its not, unless that is, that it allows use of relevant apertures and shutter speeds for the viable outcome of a specific image. Discuss if you want but I can shoot sharp, crisp images handheld perfectly happily.

[jankap]

General question.

Is Image Stabilization (IS) really better than 1/250 sec?

During the stabilization something in the lens (or in the camera) is moving.

 

One can handhold a 135er and get sharp pictures. One has to be alert, but it is very well possible.

Jan

[mirekti]

You will NOT get a sharp image with a 135mm lens at 1/45 sec.

 

I tried to give you some kind of example how steady my hands are by using 1/45 as the slowest shutter where I still have a high success rate on 75mm.

[Paul J]

I'm not a fan of tripods. I've not used one in about 5 years. It's like clipping your wings, IMO.

 

I find three times the focal length a good guide for shutter speed needed for any particular lens. I don't own the Leica 135 for M but can mostly get away with 250th for a 135mm on a dSLR.

[tobey bilek]

Adopt the standing rifle target shooting stance and technique and you will get acceptable

sharpness at 1/250.

 

Your left elbow goes into your chest and the left hand goes UNDER the lens WITH THE THUMB TO THE LEFT AND PINKY TOWARD YOU. This is the way to hold ALL lenses.

 

Perfect sharpness is only achieved with a quality tripod, quality I said.

 

Am not sure the baseplate design is conducive to tripod work as it is held on with a very small ridge that can detatch, M8 and 9 at least. Maybe use a bean bag on top.

[algrove]

Perfect sharpness is only achieved with a quality tripod, quality I said.

 

That was hat I was getting at about using a tripod-for perfect sharpness. I clean my images at 200% and I know when it's perfect and when not. For landscapes I just stopped shooting much hand held unless environmental portraiture or the like and then with a 35/50mm lenses I prefer 500,1000 or 1/2000.

[MarkP]

I tried to give you some kind of example how steady my hands are by using 1/45 as the slowest shutter where I still have a high success rate on 75mm.

 

...but there's a big difference between 75 and 135mm

 

Regards,

Mark

[robert_parker]

I own the 135 f3,5 APO and find it easy to focus accurately and you don't have to try too hard to get sharp images at lower shutter speeds. For me, the lens draws beautifully and is now a staple part of my kit.

 

Here is an example that I recently posted on the forum at 1/500s, having had the lens for just two days, together with two images taken in more demanding conditions at 1/30s and 1/20s respectively, at ISO 1250. The last two are by no means as sharp as they could be but the two day old lens seems to have done a reasonable job at sorting out some detail amid the natural movement of the subject, the vibration caused by the music and the movement of the crowd.

 

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Edited October 17, 2013 by robert_parker

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[menos I M6]

You will NOT get a sharp image with a 135mm lens at 1/45 sec.

 

Actually you can.

 

What it takes to get good results is only regular training. One has to find the right posture, learn the best breathing technique and learn how to actuate the shutter at slow shutter speeds without inducing additional camera movement.

 

The hardest part to this really is, that of course it only works with subjects either sitting very still or having a predictable movement, as subject movement is something, one cannot control, but anticipate or adjust to.

Shooting longer lenses with any camera demands a completely different technique than shooting wide or normal lenses and needs just practice.

 

Everybody can learn how to do this, just don't give up and try over and over again.

 

I cannot find samples as slow with the APO, but here goes a sample, shot on the M8.2 with a 100 f2 lens wide open:

 

Le Mans 24h 2012 - no.50 Larbre Competition - Chevrolet Corvette C6 ZR1 by teknopunk.com, on Flickr

 

 

The APO-Telyt is a wonderful lens, easily the most impressive long lens for the Leica M system. It demands a completely different approach in shooting than say a 35 Summicron.

 

One can of course at all time use helpers as tripods, monopods, shoe strings or lean against a fixed object - these will give you another few stops, but learning to handhold the longer lens without such help first will be of benefit, even when using a monopod or shoe string additionally.

 

The easiest trick with handholding the APO is to actually lead the lens with your left hand as far to the front, as you still be able to focus - or if you focus on a still subject, just focus first and then lead the lens with your left hand, holding it at the front most part of the lens hood. Press your elbows into your torso, have a stable shoulder wide stand and control your breathing. Squeeze the shutter release slowly and train this often.