mzcloud Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share #41 Posted October 2, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) They do come and go. Seems to be a pretty popular lens, so you kind of just have to keep an eye out for one.Did you get the 35/1.4 nokton or the 35/1.2 nokton? I think it's a 1.4. What are cost of them used. Te owner also said he will include something to add the red dots to the lens Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 Hi mzcloud, Take a look here What lens for first M8. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
tbarker13 Posted October 3, 2009 Share #42 Posted October 3, 2009 The 35/1.4 sells for around $560 new. And actually, it uses a 43mm filter. I'm sure you could sell one of yours (the 39 or 46) to pay for a 43. I'm not sure what you mean when you say the seller is going to include something to add red dots to the lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzcloud Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share #43 Posted October 3, 2009 I thinks it's Called a m coder. He is incluing a 43mm uv for the lens Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted October 3, 2009 Share #44 Posted October 3, 2009 Ahh. Ok. that will be black "dots" on the lens mount. Assuming they are not actually milled into the mount, you'll have to keep an eye on them as they are likely to wear off. (though I do think some of the newer CV lenses are slightly recessed on the mount to keep that from happening as easily. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzcloud Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share #45 Posted October 3, 2009 Thanks Tim, Btw, I checked out your pics, they look awesome!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted October 3, 2009 Share #46 Posted October 3, 2009 Thanks Tim, Btw, I checked out your pics, they look awesome!!! Thanks. And good luck to you on your M8 journey. It's quite the fun camera. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzcloud Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share #47 Posted October 4, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) I was taking pictures with it today but find it really slow on focusing. People are yelling at me telling me to hurry up . Any specific technique I should use? Should I leave the focus on closest or infinite to start with? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicoleica Posted October 4, 2009 Share #48 Posted October 4, 2009 Don't worry too much about focusing speed at first, it will come with practice and familiarity with the camera. If your subjects are not very close, then you may find that it helps to start off with the lens set to infinity, and then you only have to move the tab one way to reach the correct focus point. Also, until you are more familiar with the camera, try not to spend too much time 'hunting' for the 'exact' point. At moderate or long distances, depth-of-field should cover any slight errors. But again, the main thing is to practice, until it becomes second nature to you. :) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted October 4, 2009 Share #49 Posted October 4, 2009 Indeed. Practice, practice, practice. It'll eventually become second nature. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzcloud Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share #50 Posted October 6, 2009 Don't worry too much about focusing speed at first, it will come with practice and familiarity with the camera. If your subjects are not very close, then you may find that it helps to start off with the lens set to infinity, and then you only have to move the tab one way to reach the correct focus point. Also, until you are more familiar with the camera, try not to spend too much time 'hunting' for the 'exact' point. At moderate or long distances, depth-of-field should cover any slight errors. But again, the main thing is to practice, until it becomes second nature to you. :) Thanks. Are the bigger apertures harder to focus than smaller such as f8. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicoleica Posted October 6, 2009 Share #51 Posted October 6, 2009 Thanks. Are the bigger apertures harder to focus than smaller such as f8. Hi, I wouldn't say that it's harder to focus at larger apertures, just that it's more noticeable if you are off. Also, the closer you are, the more accurate you have to be. At a medium to long distance, and using a medium aperture (f:5.6 - f:8) you should have enough depth of field to cover a small focusing error. To give you an idea of this, you can look at the markings on the lens barrel to see the range available. (However, these markings are based upon a formula from the '30s, and you should really use the marks from one stop larger aperture with a modern lens and camera. For instance, if you are using f:8, then use the marks for f:5.6.) As you become more familiar with the camera, you'll find that it becomes easier to achieve exact focus quicker. But as I, and others, have said before, don't worry too much if you are slightly off. Some of the greatest photographs ever taken have technical flaws. In my opinion, it's capturing the moment, and the overall image that is far more important than technical perfection. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilfredo Posted October 6, 2009 Share #52 Posted October 6, 2009 Looks like you've gotten plenty of useful feedback already. I mostly use a 35mm Summicron ASPH on my M8. The Voiglander 35mm f/1.2 is a very nice lens, I tested one and was very pleased, if I didn't have the 35mm Summicron ASPH that would be my next choice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzcloud Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share #53 Posted October 8, 2009 Looks like you've gotten plenty of useful feedback already. I mostly use a 35mm Summicron ASPH on my M8. The Voiglander 35mm f/1.2 is a very nice lens, I tested one and was very pleased, if I didn't have the 35mm Summicron ASPH that would be my next choice. The voiglander I have is the 35mm F1.4, I am thinking if I should upgrade to a 35 summicron or summirat and sell the voiglander. Or get 50mm or 75mm. Not too sure how noticable the differences are between the 35mm voiglander and leicas. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzcloud Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share #54 Posted October 8, 2009 Nicole, thanks for your suggestion Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsrockit Posted October 16, 2009 Share #55 Posted October 16, 2009 40mm Summicron. A wonder for very little outlay. Best Graeme How does this work when the M8 doesn't have 40mm frame lines? What am I missing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
artears Posted October 17, 2009 Share #56 Posted October 17, 2009 The voiglander I have is the 35mm F1.4, I am thinking if I should upgrade to a 35 summicron or summirat and sell the voiglander. Or get 50mm or 75mm. Not too sure how noticable the differences are between the 35mm voiglander and leicas. I suggest that you go to reidreviews.com. I was hesitant to pay some yearly fee to read the tests/reviews, but I think it is very well worth it. I think that fee saved already some money for me... After reading Reid's reviews and going through the forums, I decided on the following lenses for M8: 25mm biogon 35mm f/1.2 nokton (I don't mind extra weight, I am a dslr guy, everything in rf world is much lighter ) 75mm 'cron This will be my 3-lens set, which will cover all the low-light problems, portrait situations and also wide angle to some extent.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big T Posted October 17, 2009 Share #57 Posted October 17, 2009 Don't worry too much about focusing speed at first, it will come with practice and familiarity with the camera. But again, the main thing is to practice, until it becomes second nature to you. :) New Leica / RF user here and have / had the same issue with focus. So I now have a +1.5 Diopter (as I'm long sighted) and it has improved my focusing by 2 fold..... Also got a 1.4x Magnifier for my 90mm Summarit. Also has helped heaps in focusing..... Leica Diopters and Magnifiers are expensive but eBay has some cheaper ones out of Hong Kong.... Might be worth a try.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfokevin Posted October 18, 2009 Share #58 Posted October 18, 2009 Given it is your forst lens - I would go with Nicoles suggestion of the 35 Summarit of a 28 Emarit (It is effectively a 35mm on the M8)... I would get it new with 6 bit coding and buy the filter... This will start you out with a lens that is designed for the M8... Better to start out with a lens that is as compatible with the camera as possible... Later on you can buy a non Leica/older lens and come back and we can tell you all the issuse that need to be addressed ;-) And welcome Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
graeme_hutton Posted October 18, 2009 Share #59 Posted October 18, 2009 How does this work when the M8 doesn't have 40mm frame lines? What am I missing? The 35mm framelines are quite conservative on the M8 and with a little adjustment to the lens it can be used to great effect. Regards Graeme Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
viramati Posted October 18, 2009 Share #60 Posted October 18, 2009 I got an 8.2 a month or so ago and the first lens I bought was a used 35 cron. Have added zeiss 25 biagon and a couple of other lenses. the on I use the most is the 35 cron followed by the zeiss 25. I real love the 35 cron a superb lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.