epand56 Posted October 1, 2009 Share #21 Posted October 1, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) 40mm Summicron. A wonder for very little outlay. Best Graeme I'm with Graeme, a light, little expensive, beautiful gem. Not easy to find one, though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 Hi epand56, Take a look here What lens for first M8. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
tbarker13 Posted October 1, 2009 Share #22 Posted October 1, 2009 I will definitely take a look of KEH camera. I just thought lens do not depreciate at fast. Personally prefer taking portaits Well, they do seem to hold their value pretty well - after taking the initial depreciation hit after someone opens the box the first time. (I prefer to let someone else open the box and take that hit). I'd guess that you wouldn't need to pay more than 60-70 percent of the new price for the same used lens in good condition. For example, I think I paid around $2,500 for my 28 summicron from a member here. New, those sell for around $4,000. Sure it has a bit of brassing, but the glass was perfect and it works perfectly. Someone above suggested the 50 pre-asph summilux. It's a great lens for portraits. You can find an older one for $900 easily. Then you could add a 28mm of some flavor, giving you a classic combination. Another nice portrait option, with a bit more reach, is the CV 75/2.5. You can find one for $250 or less. I use a 90 summicron (pre-asph) for some of my portraits. Think I paid $650 for it from KEH. Again, it shows some wear, but the glass is perfect. I'm kind of rambling here, but my point is that you could take $2,000 and come up with a nice kit of lenses, particularly if you are willing to consider non-leica glass in the mix. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
msnyc Posted October 1, 2009 Share #23 Posted October 1, 2009 Someone above suggested the 50 pre-asph summilux. It's a great lens for portraits. You can find an older one for $900 easily. Then you could add a 28mm of some flavor, giving you a classic combination. Another nice portrait option, with a bit more reach, is the CV 75/2.5. You can find one for $250 or less. I use a 90 summicron (pre-asph) for some of my portraits. Think I paid $650 for it from KEH. Again, it shows some wear, but the glass is perfect. QUOTE] Do you fiind the pre-asph lens preferable for a straight portrait lens? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlancasterd Posted October 1, 2009 Share #24 Posted October 1, 2009 When I had an M8 I found that I used a 28mm (equivalent to 37mm on a film M) for around 95% of my work. The little CV 28mm f3.5 Color-Skopar is a gem of a lens - very sharp, with good contrast - and very cheap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted October 1, 2009 Share #25 Posted October 1, 2009 Do you fiind the pre-asph lens preferable for a straight portrait lens? You'll get a lot of opinions on this.Some people prefer the much pricier 50 summilux asph. But I love the 50 pre-asph as a portrait lens. I use that and the 90 pre-asph summicron for portraits. Personally, I prefer the last model of the pre-asph 50 lux (the one that takes 46mm filters) because it focuses down to .7 meters, instead of 1 meter for the previous version. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzcloud Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share #26 Posted October 1, 2009 If you prefer portraits start with a 50mm lens. You should be able to get a modern 6-bit coded 50 summicron (which I have), or modern 50 summarit. These are effectively 67mm lenses on the M8, great length for portraits and great results wide open. Also many like the 50 Zeiss f2 Planar, which is cheaper than the Leica alternatives. Another alternative would be a secondhand 50 Summilux pre-ASPH, evidently good for that special Leica glow. Coding is not so important for 50 and longer lenses but you will still need an ir cut filter. A B&W one is fine. Jeff What are the benefits of ASPH, i am not too familiar with that term. and why do I need different "ir filter". Is it a Leica specific. I am still in the process of learning these technical terms Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
graeme_hutton Posted October 1, 2009 Share #27 Posted October 1, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) The 40 'cron seems to get studiously ignored by the majority here (excusing Enrico in this post) yet it really has all that you could wish for as a 'starter standard'. It has the flexibility of f2 with gorgeous bokeh, it's super-sharp and handles the nuances of light beautifully and costs around £200 FOR A LEICA LENS. It's a good place to start (and stay!) if you are not sure about your shooting preferences as it's not too wide and not too narrow - around 50mm (35mm equivalent on the M8). Really, give it a try. They come up on a well known auction site frequently. You might be surprised. Best Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adli Posted October 1, 2009 Share #28 Posted October 1, 2009 Buy a 28 Elmarit. It's focal length makes it a good all round lens for the M8, It is small and it is one of the more affordable Leica lenses. I have six lenses (all Leica) and I use this one 90% of the time even though four of the other are faster lenses, because I like the focal length and the size of this one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aesop Posted October 1, 2009 Share #29 Posted October 1, 2009 You'll get a lot of opinions on this.Some people prefer the much pricier 50 summilux asph. But I love the 50 pre-asph as a portrait lens. I use that and the 90 pre-asph summicron for portraits. Personally, I prefer the last model of the pre-asph 50 lux (the one that takes 46mm filters) because it focuses down to .7 meters, instead of 1 meter for the previous version. ...I own both pre-asph and ASPH 50mm Summilux lenses. For portraits, I prefer the pre-asph as I find the ASPH too clinical and unforgiving (unflattering?). This is a highly subjective issue, so I guess it really does depend on what you are looking for. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
delander † Posted October 1, 2009 Share #30 Posted October 1, 2009 What are the benefits of ASPH, i am not too familiar with that term. and why do I need different "ir filter". Is it a Leica specific. I am still in the process of learning these technical terms I'll do my best to answer. Many of the latest Leica lenses tend to contain aspherical lens elements designed to overcome spherical abberation. The current 50 summicron does not contain an aspherical element. Overcoming spherical aberation means sharper images, across the frame and the effect is more noticeable wide open. The current 50 summilux ASPH (aspherical) is believed by many to be a very special lens, the sharpest 50 f1.4 in production. Maybe too sharp for flattering portraits. The previous 50 summilux pre-ASPH (no aspherical lens elements like the current 50 summicron) is a softer lens wide open, particularly away from the centre, it is also a lower contrast lens. Many people like this effect for protraits. By the time you stop down to f5.6 the differences between the ASP and pre-ASPH diminish significantly. On the M8 lenses need a IR cut filter for good colour reproduction (not confined to correcting magenta cast on black materials). For wide angle lenses Leica IR filters perform better than B&W branded filters. For 50 mm lenses there is no discernable difference, so you might as well get the cheaper B&W versions. Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted October 1, 2009 Share #31 Posted October 1, 2009 I make no claims of being a great - or even good - portrait photographer. But here are a couple recent shots with the 50 pre-asph lux. If you go to my Flickr account, you can pull up larger versions of the files. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted October 1, 2009 Share #32 Posted October 1, 2009 The 40 'cron seems to get studiously ignored by the majority here (excusing Enrico in this post) yet it really has all that you could wish for as a 'starter standard'. It has the flexibility of f2 with gorgeous bokeh, it's super-sharp and handles the nuances of light beautifully and costs around £200 FOR A LEICA LENS. It's a good place to start (and stay!) if you are not sure about your shooting preferences as it's not too wide and not too narrow - around 50mm (35mm equivalent on the M8). Really, give it a try. They come up on a well known auction site frequently. You might be surprised. Best Graeme Not really. There have been many posts on this lens over the years since the M8 came out and more then likely posts over in the film forum also . Problems with this lens on the M8. Doesn't match any of the framelines. Default framelines for this lens is the 50mm lines. They really are to tight. Best used with the 35mm lines but you have to cut the lug on the lens mount for it to bring up those lines. Has to be hand coded and if you want to use the 35mm code you have to cut/file the lug. Has a odd filter thread. 39mm filter will fit but it doesn't thread on all the way. Most of these lenses have lost the original hood. Again odd filter thread so aftermarket hoods may or may not work. If you use a 39mm filter you can get a 39mm screw on hood and screw it into the filter but then you are putting more stress on the mismatched threads from the filter to the lens. This lens may or may not focus correctly on the M8 or any other M camera, film or digital. The pitch of the cam on the lens is steeper then normal M lenses. It may focus ok at one distance but not any other. Other then those above it is a great lens. I use to have 2 of them. Sold one with a CL I had. But I very rarely use it on the M8. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
graeme_hutton Posted October 2, 2009 Share #33 Posted October 2, 2009 (edited) Not really. There have been many posts on this lens over the years since the M8 came out and more then likely posts over in the film forum also. Problems with this lens on the M8. "Doesn't match any of the framelines. Default framelines for this lens is the 50mm lines. They really are to tight." Disagree - The 35mm framelines are quite conservative and given the accuracy of M8 framelines anyway..... "Best used with the 35mm lines but you have to cut the lug on the lens mount for it to bring up those lines." Two strokes of a coarse nail file does the job. "Has to be hand coded and if you want to use the 35mm code you have to cut/file the lug." Not hugeley necessary for a beginner. "Has a odd filter thread. 39mm filter will fit but it doesn't thread on all the way." Never been a problem for me. "Most of these lenses have lost the original hood. Again odd filter thread so aftermarket hoods may or may not work. If you use a 39mm filter you can get a 39mm screw on hood and screw it into the filter but then you are putting more stress on the mismatched threads from the filter to the lens." 'Most'....Not in my experience of looking ( I just sold a spare!) "This lens may or may not focus correctly on the M8 or any other M camera, film or digital. The pitch of the cam on the lens is steeper then normal M lenses. It may focus ok at one distance but not any other." Again, never encountered this as haven't the other 40 'cron users who regularly post with M8 that I know. For £200 it's worth a chance. "Other then those above it is a great lens. I use to have 2 of them. Sold one with a CL I had. But I very rarely use it on the M8." Agree at last and yes, if you have alternatives, then I can see that you would select a 35 over the 40. But as a first lens it gets you started for very little outlay and then you can see if you err towards wide or narrow shooting before shelling out thousands. That was the point of my post. Graeme Edited October 2, 2009 by graeme_hutton Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted October 2, 2009 Share #34 Posted October 2, 2009 Agree at last and yes, if you have alternatives, then I can see that you would select a 35 over the 40. But as a first lens it gets you started for very little outlay and then you can see if you err towards wide or narrow shooting before shelling out thousands. That was the point of my post. Graeme Really don't get all the edits to the quote of my post. You disagree with me saying the 50mm lines are to tight then go on to say that using 35mm lines are ok, which is what I said in the next line. And the 35mm lines don't match either but they are closer then the 50's. Not my experience on filing down the lug. That is unless you are using the coarsest nail file every found. And even then I doubt 2 strokes will do it. Coding and filter is needed for all lenses and if a beginner wants the best images they can get it needs to be done. Whether it has been a problem for you really doesn't matter. The thread pitch and size is different on the 40-C. In any event have a nice day. Originally Posted by Shootist Not really. There have been many posts on this lens over the years since the M8 came out and more then likely posts over in the film forum also . Problems with this lens on the M8. "Doesn't match any of the framelines. Default framelines for this lens is the 50mm lines. They really are to tight." Disagree - The 35mm framelines are quite conservative and given the accuracy of M8 framelines anyway..... "Best used with the 35mm lines but you have to cut the lug on the lens mount for it to bring up those lines." Two strokes of a coarse nail file does the job. "Has to be hand coded and if you want to use the 35mm code you have to cut/file the lug." Not hugeley necessary for a beginner. "Has a odd filter thread. 39mm filter will fit but it doesn't thread on all the way." Never been a problem for me. "Most of these lenses have lost the original hood. Again odd filter thread so aftermarket hoods may or may not work. If you use a 39mm filter you can get a 39mm screw on hood and screw it into the filter but then you are putting more stress on the mismatched threads from the filter to the lens." 'Most'....Not in my experience of looking ( I just sold a spare!) "This lens may or may not focus correctly on the M8 or any other M camera, film or digital. The pitch of the cam on the lens is steeper then normal M lenses. It may focus ok at one distance but not any other." Again, never encountered this as haven't the other 40 'cron users who regularly post with M8 that I know. For £200 it's worth a chance. "Other then those above it is a great lens. I use to have 2 of them. Sold one with a CL I had. But I very rarely use it on the M8." Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
graeme_hutton Posted October 2, 2009 Share #35 Posted October 2, 2009 OK, OK we could get pedantic but life's too short. I'm just trying to point out a balanced view to a new user a cheap way of starting out. This could perhaps be misinterpreted by a novice as fraught with significant problems reading your initial response. The lens is a. A bargain and b. easy to accommodate on the M8 in my view of using it almost exclusively. You have a nice day too. Best Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted October 2, 2009 Share #36 Posted October 2, 2009 OK, OK we could get pedantic but life's too short. I'm just trying to point out a balanced view to a new user a cheap way of starting out. This could perhaps be misinterpreted by a novice as fraught with significant problems reading your initial response. The lens is a. A bargain and b. easy to accommodate on the M8 in my view of using it almost exclusively. You have a nice day too. Best Graeme No need to get pedantic in any way. I was just trying to point out some of the short comings of this lens when used on any M camera especially the digital M's, because of coding, framelines and on the M8 filters. If you read the last line in my original post it says it is a great lens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzcloud Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share #37 Posted October 2, 2009 I am going for a m8.2 with a 35mm nokton lense as a package. Will pick it up tomorrow Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzcloud Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share #38 Posted October 2, 2009 Well, they do seem to hold their value pretty well - after taking the initial depreciation hit after someone opens the box the first time. (I prefer to let someone else open the box and take that hit). I'd guess that you wouldn't need to pay more than 60-70 percent of the new price for the same used lens in good condition. For example, I think I paid around $2,500 for my 28 summicron from a member here. New, those sell for around $4,000. Sure it has a bit of brassing, but the glass was perfect and it works perfectly. Someone above suggested the 50 pre-asph summilux. It's a great lens for portraits. You can find an older one for $900 easily. Then you could add a 28mm of some flavor, giving you a classic combination. Another nice portrait option, with a bit more reach, is the CV 75/2.5. You can find one for $250 or less. I use a 90 summicron (pre-asph) for some of my portraits. Think I paid $650 for it from KEH. Again, it shows some wear, but the glass is perfect. I'm kind of rambling here, but my point is that you could take $2,000 and come up with a nice kit of lenses, particularly if you are willing to consider non-leica glass in the mix. I could not seem to find the 50mm pre asph at KEH. For 900 it fits my budget perfectly Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted October 2, 2009 Share #39 Posted October 2, 2009 I could not seem to find the 50mm pre asph at KEH. For 900 it fits my budget perfectly They do come and go. Seems to be a pretty popular lens, so you kind of just have to keep an eye out for one. Did you get the 35/1.4 nokton or the 35/1.2 nokton? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzcloud Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share #40 Posted October 2, 2009 I'll do my best to answer. Many of the latest Leica lenses tend to contain aspherical lens elements designed to overcome spherical abberation. The current 50 summicron does not contain an aspherical element. Overcoming spherical aberation means sharper images, across the frame and the effect is more noticeable wide open. The current 50 summilux ASPH (aspherical) is believed by many to be a very special lens, the sharpest 50 f1.4 in production. Maybe too sharp for flattering portraits. The previous 50 summilux pre-ASPH (no aspherical lens elements like the current 50 summicron) is a softer lens wide open, particularly away from the centre, it is also a lower contrast lens. Many people like this effect for protraits. By the time you stop down to f5.6 the differences between the ASP and pre-ASPH diminish significantly. On the M8 lenses need a IR cut filter for good colour reproduction (not confined to correcting magenta cast on black materials). For wide angle lenses Leica IR filters perform better than B&W branded filters. For 50 mm lenses there is no discernable difference, so you might as well get the cheaper B&W versions. Jeff Jeff, thanks for the detailed explanation. I don't think I need a new asph as it's way too much money and I am most likely not experienced enough to tell the difference. The camera I am getting comes with a 39 and a 46 filter. Guess that's all I need right Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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