rob_x2004 Posted August 21, 2009 Share #21 Posted August 21, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Bill, just read the ilford site and then back your own judgement. They probably even mention thermometers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 21, 2009 Posted August 21, 2009 Hi rob_x2004, Take a look here Time to have a go. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
antistatic Posted August 21, 2009 Share #22 Posted August 21, 2009 My advice is to go to your favourite camera shop, find the oldest member of staff and ask about buying the kit needed to develop your own film. I tried this and was given an in store tutorial for free. n.b. this may not work if the oldest member of staff is 19 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
poynterama Posted August 21, 2009 Share #23 Posted August 21, 2009 I developed half a dozen rolls on the weekend and was pretty happy with the results, considering I was a little tacker the last time I did it (maybe 15 years ago!) I have been bulk loading film which I found to be immensely satisfying and makes opening the cartridges easy, but if I develop a factory roll (as I did with some PanF), I put a little block of wood (postage stamp size) in the dark bag, then give the exposed end of the spool a sharp tap on the wood to pop the end off. Works every time Agree with the comments that others have posted- I waited till I had enough rolls to use a complete packet of ID-11 to eliminate wastage. You can always try something like Ilfosol (I'm happy with it, many others aren't...) and dilute it as required for a 1-shot use. I use a water rinse and fix with Ilford rapid. Funny you should post this today, as I was actually thinking of starting a very similar thread about home processing of E6, a very new experience for me! I better not hijack your thread though Sam ps. I love your blog, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted August 21, 2009 Share #24 Posted August 21, 2009 I've been thinking about it for some time, but I have finally decided to give it a go. I'm talking about popping off a roll of Tri-X and souping it at home. I have never developed a film in my life, so I would like some guidance, please, as to: 1. What equipment do I need? I think I need: - a daylight changing bag (yes I know I can black out a room but I'm assuming that this is easier) - a film can opener - a light-tight tank - a reel to go in the tank - a clip to hang the roll up with - a set of tongs to dry it off 2. What chemicals do I need? - insert as applicable 3. What do I do? I appreciate that this may all seem noddy, but please be gentle with me. I have done some internet searches and can find most of the equipment either as part of a kit or separately, but I cannot find a "starter" kit for chemicals. All the ones I have found so far seem to be big containers and I know that some of them (all?) can oxidise so I would prefer small ones to start with. To be clear, the end result I am aiming for at this stage is developed negs that I can scan myself - I am not going to wet print... yet... Thoughts? Suggestions? Resources etc that you can point me at? Regards, Bill 1. What equipment do I need? I think I need: - a daylight changing bag (yes I know I can black out a room but I'm assuming that this is easier) You really don't need a daylight bag. Just darken your bedroom and get under the covers. Works for me. Waiting for night helps a lot to. - a film can opener Any can opener that you use on glass bottles will work or you can just not rewind the film all the way and rip part of the cut leader off once exposed so you remember which rolls are fresh and which are exposed. - a light-tight tank I use a Paterson Universal and it has worked well for me. - a reel to go in the tank The paterson comes with reel and rod for 35mm, 127, 120/220 films. - a clip to hang the roll up with Any clip will do. I use a metal clip I had laying around and another with a weight on it at the bottom. - a set of tongs to dry it off Use your finders then hang it in your bathroom off the shower rod. You'll need a wire hook on the rod to hang the clip on. 2. What chemicals do I need? - insert as applicable There are so many developers for B&W it's hard to say. I use Kodak D76 but that is only one out of maybe 20+ that are still available. Then a stop bath, Fixer, cleaning agent and I use Photoflow as the last step. The cleaning agent is to cut the final rinse time. I suggest you buy all the chemicals from one manufacturer. Just makes it simpler in my eyes. 3. What do I do? Buy a book on developing or just go to either the Kodak or Ilford website and search for developing B&W. Google is also good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StS Posted August 21, 2009 Share #25 Posted August 21, 2009 Welcome to alchemy or the black art of photography. I have the feeling everything is already covered, so I can only wish for success with the first roll. One thing - Steve commented 'there's nothing like seeing a roll of negatives come out of the tank'. There is actually one thing - the image appearing on blank photographic paper in the developer. Have fun Stefan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
topoxforddoc Posted August 21, 2009 Share #26 Posted August 21, 2009 One thing - Steve commented 'there's nothing like seeing a roll of negatives come out of the tank'. There is actually one thing - the image appearing on blank photographic paper in the developer. Spot on - as my eight year old says - 'Magic Pictures!' Charlie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share #27 Posted August 22, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) So. I am hugely indebted to all who have responded. I went to my local Jessops this morning (stop groaning - bear with me) told them I intended to set up a "hybrid darkroom" and walked out with: 1 Canon flatbed scanner 1 litre Ilfotec DD-X 1 litre Ilfotol 1 litre Hypam 500ml IN1 (stop bath) 1 Paterson universal developing tank with reel 1 changing bag 1 thermometer 1 cassette opener List price - £150 Paid - £118 And that, dear reader, was the reason for going to Jessops... They were glad to get shot of the darkroom kit, and even discounted the most expensive item -the scanner. My cunning plan, by the way, is to quickly scan the negs using the flatbed, so that I can invert and have a look at them, before rescanning anything worthwhile with my film scanner. A local branch of Kitchen Kapers did me three small glass measuring jugs for £5, so I am ready to roll for less than £125. All I need now is the time to have a go... Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted August 22, 2009 Share #28 Posted August 22, 2009 Welcome to alchemy or the black art of photography. I have the feeling everything is already covered, so I can only wish for success with the first roll. One thing - Steve commented 'there's nothing like seeing a roll of negatives come out of the tank'. There is actually one thing - the image appearing on blank photographic paper in the developer. Have fun Stefan Seeing a roll of slides come out of a tank, beats negatives hands down any day Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aesop Posted August 22, 2009 Share #29 Posted August 22, 2009 It won't - certainly based on my experience. It's a myth, or dare I say a fable. ...redbaron and stuntsworth, I am not sure if bill is an M or R user, but re: film leaders, shutter damage and fables(), see the following thread: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/customer-forum/94603-r8-r9-how-much-new-shutter.html It is a lengthy thread but it deals with the quite scary scenario of a film leader damaging the shutter of an experienced user. There are other threads within the forum that deal with shutter damage and fracture (cause/s unknown), but this case is properly documented in the thread and is über-conclusive. Each to their own, of course, but I will not be leaving my film leaders out. Hope this helps. . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael-IIIf Posted August 22, 2009 Share #30 Posted August 22, 2009 1. What equipment do I need? I think I need: - a daylight changing bag (yes I know I can black out a room but I'm assuming that this is easier) Our bathroom doesn't have a window. I simply close the door and it's quicker than blacking-out a room or faffing with a changing bag. - a film can opener Swiss Army knife, bottle opener, teeth, anything will do. - a light-tight tank Yes. - a reel to go in the tank Usually comes with the tank. - a clip to hang the roll up with Clothes peg. And another two to weigh down the end of the film. - a set of tongs to dry it off No. No. No. Unless you like scratches. Just hang it to dry. There. Whole list reduced to one daylight tank. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael-IIIf Posted August 22, 2009 Share #31 Posted August 22, 2009 The main thing I would suggest is to leave the film leader out when rewinding. Then trim it off, round off the corners and get it started on the reel in daylight. It's a pain to do this blind! Top tip I've been doing it this way since the 70s without ever damaging a shutter. In fact, if anything, I would say it is less likely to damage a shutter than rewinding the film fully which by its nature has to drag the leader back across the shutter. I put the camera to my ear as I'm rewinding - don't care a fig for funny looks - and the moment I hear and feel the tension releasing I stop rewinding. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted August 22, 2009 Share #32 Posted August 22, 2009 ...redbaron and stuntsworth, I am not sure if bill is an M or R user, but re: film leaders, shutter damage and fables(), see the following thread: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/customer-forum/94603-r8-r9-how-much-new-shutter.html It is a lengthy thread but it deals with the quite scary scenario of a film leader damaging the shutter of an experienced user. There are other threads within the forum that deal with shutter damage and fracture (cause/s unknown), but this case is properly documented in the thread and is über-conclusive. Each to their own, of course, but I will not be leaving my film leaders out. Hope this helps. About the only way a shutter could be damaged by a film leader is if the leader was in the shutter area and you fired the shutter. Yes this could happen by accident but just like a gun "don't put you finger on the trigger unless you are willing to destroy what the gun is pointed at" with a camera "don't put your finder on the shutter release unless you are willing to take a picture of what the camera is pointed at". I have been doing that for years and years before that without ever damaging any shutters. But then I don't have my finger/s anywhere near the shutter release while I'm rewinding and removing film from the cameras. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted August 22, 2009 Share #33 Posted August 22, 2009 Bill I'm shocked! You never developed a film before? +1 How about the rest of the print development process? Just curious if you farmed out negs, or didn't ever use a darkroom. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron Posted August 23, 2009 Share #34 Posted August 23, 2009 One golden rule that may seem obvious but really needs attention is never swap containers for developer and fixer. It's a lot easier to label them and wash after use than worry about cross contamination. Fixer kills developer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spylaw4 Posted August 23, 2009 Share #35 Posted August 23, 2009 This deserves "sticky" status IMHO. - A very useful thread. Almost enough (but not quite) to make me try film again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted August 23, 2009 Share #36 Posted August 23, 2009 One other tip regarding developers. I always used to use Xtol - so low cost per film it almost seemed it was free. It comes as a powder that can be mixed at room temperature - unlike D76 which requires warmer water. The downside is that it makes up 5 litres at a time, which is rather a lot, and since Xtol remains clear when it 'goes off' you need a way of storing it that minimises the possibility of that happening. What I uses to do was buy a 5 litre container of distilled water from a car accessory shop and mark the level of the water on the container with a felt tipped pen. I'd them pour out a measured amount of water - the developer is mixed in less than 5 litres (from memory I think it's 4 litres). I'd then mix the developer according to the instructions on the packet, and then top up the container back to the pen mark. That meant that I had the 5 litres needed. Once it was mixed I decanted the developer into one litre bottles and filled them right up to the top - I used old plastic lemonade bottles that I could squeeze slightly to remove any air. That meant that I had 5 litres with very little contact between the developer and the air, so a reduced chance of oxidation happening. At the time I was shooting a lot of film, so I soon got through a litre of developer, but you could always repeat the above using smaller bottles if your usage is lower. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjt1 Posted August 23, 2009 Share #37 Posted August 23, 2009 My 5p worth... You can get bottles that squeeze down to get rid of the air. I used to get them in jessops but I don't know if they still do them. I found one here. You could also try Nova Darkroom as well as Silverprint. I never reuse developer - one shot gives much more control as you don't have to compensate for exhaustion and as mentioned, Xtol is so cheap, there is no reason not to go one shot. I use Xtol 1+1 (1 part Xtol 1 part water) as this increases sharpness (at the expense of finer grain). Reusing fix is much less critical - I reuse fix and keep a note of how many films have gone through it and have had no problems so far. I usually take the manufacturer's recommendation and divide it by 2 and make this my limit just to be on the safe side. I keep a 2 litre bottle of hypam 1+4 and limit this to 24 135-36 films. One tip is to make sure the reels are absolutely dry before loading - it will be a pig to get the film on if they are slightly wet. If you are planning to scan negs into the computer you might find that a flatbed scanner is inadequate. There are quite a few threads in the leica forum about flatbeds vs film scanners, but I would not use a flatbed to scan negs - a film scanner has much higher native resolution and dynamic range. I think the only manufacturer left making film scanners is nikon - and they might be discontinuing the ones they make. Decent film scanners are not cheap (about UKP 1000 I think) but they are very good - dont confuse the decent film scanners with the ones you see advertised in the sunday papers for 70 pounds - you get what you pay for! HTH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted August 23, 2009 Share #38 Posted August 23, 2009 The problem with those concetina type bottles in that you can get air bubbles in the folds of the bottles, and bubbles have a large surface area relative to their size. If you are not using much developer, but want to keep air from getting into contact with what's left in the bottle, another idea is to buy some marbles and drop those into the bottle to fill up the space created as developer is used. I totally agree about only using Paterson reels if they are completely dry. If they are damp the film will jam when loading. If you need to dry the reels and tank quickly, beware of putting them in a very low oven. The reels may be ok, but the tank itself has a very low melting point and will collapse in on itself - no need to ask how I know this <grin>. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elansprint72 Posted August 23, 2009 Share #39 Posted August 23, 2009 .................. but the tank itself has a very low melting point and will collapse in on itself - no need to ask how I know this <grin>. Hope the pies were not ruined. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted August 23, 2009 Share #40 Posted August 23, 2009 Hope the pies were not ruined. I buy them pre-warmed... Wholesale Bakers of Pies – Bread – Savouries – Greenhalghs Bakery Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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