GreyCoupe Posted June 25, 2009 Share #41 Posted June 25, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Jamie, on closer examination, the adapter I ordered looks like a version of the Leitax fix. I have always preferred Nikon to Canon, but I have to keep in mind that what I need from a body is a dark space in which I can control the amount of light that enters. The real magic is the glass... Damn Leica, anyway, for getting my hopes up for a digital R! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 25, 2009 Posted June 25, 2009 Hi GreyCoupe, Take a look here Sell or buy R cameras and lenses. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
leicanut2 Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share #42 Posted June 25, 2009 Hey Gerard There was a good deal on Ebay. R9 and DMR because the guy was going to get the S when it came out. I missed it. Was a good price the DMR'S on ebay are 4500 to 5500 tad to much, if it will not be repairable in 2 or 3 years. Cheers Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted June 25, 2009 Share #43 Posted June 25, 2009 Jamie, on closer examination, the adapter I ordered looks like a version of the Leitax fix. I have always preferred Nikon to Canon, but I have to keep in mind that what I need from a body is a dark space in which I can control the amount of light that enters. The real magic is the glass... Damn Leica, anyway, for getting my hopes up for a digital R! Yes--my sentiments exactly. Honestly, I switched to Nikon from Canon because for an AF camera I wanted one that focused properly (and had really high ISO performance) so the D3 was it. However, I'm considering a 5d2 strictly for using R glass, if I could figure out a way to use the R19 with it (or find someone who could do the mount fix for me). It certainly has the resolution and the colour's ok. It's got a great ISO 3200 so that's pretty good, and it handles ok too. OTH, if I do that it will practically replace the DMR, so I may as well just convert the glass to Nikon and save myself a camera purchase. But then my R9/DMR is useless to me Arrgghhh. I was going to sell the Nikon stuff and DMR to finance the R10 and new lenses. Now I don't know what to do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgcd Posted June 25, 2009 Share #44 Posted June 25, 2009 Yes--my sentiments exactly. Honestly, I switched to Nikon from Canon because for an AF camera I wanted one that focused properly (and had really high ISO performance) so the D3 was it. However, I'm considering a 5d2 strictly for using R glass, if I could figure out a way to use the R19 with it (or find someone who could do the mount fix for me). It certainly has the resolution and the colour's ok. It's got a great ISO 3200 so that's pretty good, and it handles ok too. OTH, if I do that it will practically replace the DMR, so I may as well just convert the glass to Nikon and save myself a camera purchase. But then my R9/DMR is useless to me Arrgghhh. I was going to sell the Nikon stuff and DMR to finance the R10 and new lenses. Now I don't know what to do. Damn Leica indeed! I pretty much decided to keep the DMR and buy a 5D MKII just to be able to mount R lenses too for the video aspect. I prefer Nikon to be honest but I cannot see myself changing my R mount on any of the lenses since I still have 3 R bodies. The other alternative would be the get the S2 and new S lenses but frankly I expect this option to be too expensive. Anyway... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdb Posted June 25, 2009 Share #45 Posted June 25, 2009 To Leicanut2: [Mod: No links to eBay auctions, please] The one I got was in Paris for 3890 € WITH a R9 body Good luck Gérard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhsimmonds Posted June 25, 2009 Share #46 Posted June 25, 2009 Is it just my browser or has the Death of the R...... thread "died" already from this forum? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrice Posted June 25, 2009 Share #47 Posted June 25, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) So how hard is it to use the 5d11 and the adapter? Is the adapter the focus confirm adapter? And can you take fast pictures of wild life or is using the 5d like using a Visoflex flip this check that move this dang thing. WHAT, where did the bird go type thing? And last but not least get the 280 f/4. The 280 still comands a big price used any where from 3700 to 5,000 - closer to 5,000All the above pics taken on a 5d with r glass?? Jan I have a focus confirm adapter but I find focus confirm is rubbish at best. Here's the good news, you can use R8/R9 focusing screens in 5D/5DII downside is that canon's quality control is average and for accurate manual focus you will need to "shim" your viewfinder, there is a thread at fredmiranda regarding this, I accurately calibrated my viewfinder with the 90 APO so manual focus is spot on. Fast shooting is ok, there is a long viewfinder blackout with the 5D & 5DII compared to R8/R9 but it's not too bad. If you're shooting at small apertures focusing could be tricky as it's stop down obviously and the viewfinder darkens. I can shoot at f/11 with live view and there is surprisingly little grain on the screen, I do this for fine tuning landscapes as you can zoom in on certain areas on the screen to make sure hyperfocal is getting everything in focus, like this shot with the R19 at f/13: All pics above taken with the R lenses mentioned above the respective picture. The adapters are a little hit and miss, IMO. But they do work (especially if you stop the lens down; wide open I've seen some peculiar things happen on a 5d and 1ds2, even with focus-confirming adapters). Those are some lovely shots posted; the glass is certainly amazing.... @ Thrice: how did you mount the R19 onto your 5d2 without the mirror hitting the lens? Adapters are fine provided they are good (novoflex, fotodiox pro and maybe happypagehk). Like I said, focus confirm is useless and the viewfinder needs to be "calibrated" with shims, canon calls them "washers". I ground the mirror with a dremel tool. The 35 lux is even more demanding of space in the mirror box than the R19, but I didn't affect operation or my viewfinder image by grinding about 2mm off the entire leading edge of the mirror. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted June 25, 2009 Share #48 Posted June 25, 2009 ...Like I said, focus confirm is useless and the viewfinder needs to be "calibrated" with shims, canon calls them "washers"... Do you mean with the 5D2? My 5D does not need any shim with Canon & Brightscreen focus screens and focus confirm works well with most of my R lenses (21/4, 28/2.8, 35/2, 50/2, 60/2.8, 90/2, 135/2.8, 180/3.4, 35-70/3.5, 35-70/4) so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted June 25, 2009 Share #49 Posted June 25, 2009 Is it just my browser or has the Death of the R...... thread "died" already from this forum? It's here http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/customer-forum/89662-death-r-how-do-you-really.html Last post about 14:30 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrice Posted June 25, 2009 Share #50 Posted June 25, 2009 Do you mean with the 5D2? My 5D does not need any shim with Canon & Brightscreen focus screens and focus confirm works well with most of my R lenses (21/4, 28/2.8, 35/2, 50/2, 60/2.8, 90/2, 135/2.8, 180/3.4, 35-70/3.5, 35-70/4) so far. Lucky man, my 5D (original) was fine too. With the Mark II I had to remove the shims that were already installed, position a calibration chart at 45° and try different shims until I found the perfect combination. A good hour of tweaking. Focus confirm on some new adapters can be calibrated using focus microadjust in the 5D Mark II but I find it's not accurate enough for f/1.4 shooting. I also find the Canon viewfinders terribly inadequate for the 35 Lux, I'm going to try with an R8 microprism dot screen to see if that helps, otherwise I'll just keep using live view with that lens for accurate results wide open. The lux is great for candids in low light though: 35 Summilux-R wide open on 5D Mark II ISO3200 Oh and someone please let me know if they're getting annoyed by all the pictures I'm posting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted June 25, 2009 Share #51 Posted June 25, 2009 Oh and someone please let me know if they're getting annoyed by all the pictures I'm posting. I think that you've made your point... Place then in the photo section from now on, please. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasl.se Posted June 25, 2009 Share #52 Posted June 25, 2009 let me add two other options ( not very popular maybe ) 8- R to M adapter -with estimate focusing. and no frame lines for most focal lengths. 9- Alpa adapter ( if you find a Leibag ) 10) Landfill And, obviously. 11) Conversation piece Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted June 25, 2009 Share #53 Posted June 25, 2009 Lucky man, my 5D (original) was fine too. With the Mark II I had to remove the shims that were already installed, position a calibration chart at 45° and try different shims until I found the perfect combination. A good hour of tweaking. {snipped} Focus-confirming adapters worked fine on my 5d as well--even wide open with the 80 and 50 lux. The CameraQuest ones were really iffy, though maybe it had to do with screen calibration. Was the 'dremeling' of the mirror difficult? Any gotchas, other than taking a rotating grinder to an expensive dSLR? Does the clipped mirror result in any visual artifacts? Being able to use the 35 Lux would be sweet! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrice Posted June 26, 2009 Share #54 Posted June 26, 2009 {snip} Was the 'dremeling' of the mirror difficult? Any gotchas, other than taking a rotating grinder to an expensive dSLR? Does the clipped mirror result in any visual artifacts? Being able to use the 35 Lux would be sweet! It's tricky, taping up the mirror box so that filings don't get on your shutter/sensor/viewfinder is the most difficult. A diamond head with VERY fine grit or the green (designed for glass/ceramic) official dremel head worked best. Because of the large size of the rear element on the 35 lux I had to grind all the way to the edges, so the smaller tip worked better. When grinding the mirror will chip ever so slightly as u go, don't freak out, and try to stay fluid in your movements. You need to grind down the plastic part the mirror is sitting on as well, you'll see if you manually lift your mirror up. I get no optical artifacts even with 180mm stopped down, I have heard of others having visible artifacts though, but I think you have to go to quite the extreme (like 5mm) to see that. Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted June 26, 2009 Share #55 Posted June 26, 2009 I think that you've made your point... Place then in the photo section from now on, please. Andy--as a side note--is it going to be ok to post Leica R lens / Canon / Nikon body combos in the Photo Forum now that the R line is officially "over"? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted June 26, 2009 Share #56 Posted June 26, 2009 Andy--as a side note--is it going to be ok to post Leica R lens / Canon / Nikon body combos in the Photo Forum now that the R line is officially "over"? Jamie, It always has been! (Sorry Andy!) Photos must be taken with Leica cameras and/or lenses. That's why people can post images taken with their CV or Zeiss lenses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted June 26, 2009 Share #57 Posted June 26, 2009 Mr Earley speaks the truth. R glass on a Zorki would be fine. So long as there's "Leica" in the equation, that's fine. Personally, I'd actually welcome some Nikon/R-glass examples, using the Leitax mounts... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicanut2 Posted June 26, 2009 Author Share #58 Posted June 26, 2009 Where do you find calibration charts ? and shims for the canons if needed? Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted June 26, 2009 Share #59 Posted June 26, 2009 About shims (more precisely "washers") see: Focus Screen Shims/Washers for Canon 5D - FM Forums Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanG Posted June 26, 2009 Share #60 Posted June 26, 2009 Regarding adapters. I am using Nikon lenses on the Canon. (Sorry - I'm considering some fast or wide R glass if I can find it at a reasonable price but I don't want to grind down my mirror either.) Two cheap adapters I bought on Ebay were not set for correct infinity focus. I had to take them apart and shim them slightly. The AF confirmation on one of the adapters worked fine on my 5D, 5DII, and 1DII but would lock up the 1Ds (model 1) for some reason. It was replaced with another one that did the same thing. I also have a non focus confirming Novoflex adapter that is much better made and has accurate infinity focus. I've noticed a peculiarity when using MF lenses and live view. Last night, I was shooting a dusk shot with a Nikkor 35mm PC lens and 5DII. The image on the live view was very dark, yet the exposure was correct on the photo. When I put on a coupled Canon 24 TSE lens, the live view matched the resulting exposure. Today I played with the same lens/body combination and couldn't duplicate the exposure variation. So I'm not sure what is going on but will check into it a bit more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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