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leicaflex, R3, R4 or R5?


bram

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I'm new to Leica, but I've got a Minolta (with lots of electronics) and a digital Nikon. I want to get a more mechanical camera that can take great pictures so I'm thinking about buying a Leica. I got it narrowed down to a Leicaflex, R3, R4 or R5. These are within my budget (I limited it €750). I have read a lot on the internet, but I can't seem to decide. I've read great stuff about all the camera's. Can anybody give me more advice?

Correct me if I'm wrong: The leicaflex is the oldest and has the least light measuring options. The R3 has some light measurement options less than the R4, but the shutter is electronic on the R4. Is it electronic on R3 as well? And what about the R5? With the electronic shutter, the original batteries are now longer available and it interferes with the shutter time. Is that just on issue on the R4? Or is it a problem on the R3 and R5 as well?

 

The R4s is downgraded R4, so I'd better get a "real" R4?

 

I would be thankfull for any advice on this, as I'm getting a bit confused about what to buy.

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The Leicaflex of choice is the SL. The most important thing if you decide to go with this option is to make sure the camera you get has a clear viewfinder. These are old cameras and prone to fungus and desilvering of the pentaprism.

 

The last fully mechanical SLRs Leica produced are the R6 and R6.2, which command something of a premium.

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Most people with good reason will recommend the SL and SL2 but I prefer the R4s Mod 2 (Mod P in the US). Unlike the SL/2 you can use modern Rom lenses and AE is helpful. Also the R4 has the highest finder magnification amongst all R bodies. The Mod 2/P model is the latest R4s model and has better electronics. And it's cheap too.

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Hi,

 

You will get so many different opinions here that you will most likely be more confused by it all :D

 

The Leicaflex cameras are fully manual/mechanical apart from the meter. The batteries are no longer available but you can get replacements which may need some adjustment to the cameras meter (just look for one that has already been CLA'd and adjusted or allow for it in the price). I also understand that it is best to avoid the cameras with red plastic lens release buttons as they are prone to snap off due to fatigue on the joint after all this time.

 

The R3, R4/s/E, R5, are all electronic with some mechanical speeds (usually the flash sync and B). Batteries aren't an issue with these models. The R4 and R5 have multi exposure modes whereas the others are Aperture priority and manual. Oh and if you want dedicated flash you will need to look at the R4 and later cameras.

 

So, I think your choice should come down to firstly do you want auto exposure, if so do you want multi modes or will AP suffice, then look for the best example of whichever camera it is.

 

I have an R3 which I've owned from new and I see no need to replace it. I also prefer the shutter action compared to the later models, but the later cameras are smaller/lighter which you might prefer.

 

Beyond the R5 you have the more expensive R6/6.2 which have mechanical shutters again, the R7 and the later, different design R8/9. I did say you could end up more confused!

 

One other point is to check the foam light seals which will perish on older cameras, but its an inexpensive repair and very easy to do yourself.

 

R3 and R4 models can be bought for £2-300 from UK dealers so your budget should allow for a body and one or two lenses.

 

Good luck with your hunt!

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I would go for the R4 which is widely available, compact and economical. Some of them can fail in the electronics, but my opinion is, then get a new one as there's plenty to buy and prices are low. Motors, winders and all.

 

The R3 I had and never used because you have to turn the power on and off. But the build quality is closer to the Leicaflex than the R4 (but then if one wants a tank feel, get the real Leicaflex or Leicaflex SL which will last till year 2474. Great cameras with a nice feel more like an M camera than the latter R cameras).

 

The R5 I never had.

 

I should also mention R8 and R9 which are almost 100% alike; but the R8 can be bought at very good prices and is a great camera which I actually prefer for the R9 (because the R8 doesn't have a lock on the program wheel).

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HI,

 

I have a SL2, R8 and R6. I used to have two R3's.

I use the R6 the most now. I like it's simplicity, size and has all I need including TTL flash.

The R3 is okay too if you want the cheapest.

If you need TTL flash you should go with the R5. Otherwise I'd take the R4. BUt I'd search for a later one. I think general opinion is that after #1600000 are the best with the more robust electronics

But they are all electronic. For me that's a problem, that's why I use the R6.

 

Cheers,

 

Michiel Fokkema

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Another question: if I buy an R3, R4 or R5, how long does the battery last? I take it in a Leicaflex, they'll last very long as everything is manual exept the meter.

 

I would actually like the camera to be as manual as possible as I'm quite ennoyed sometimes with the electronics on my other camera's, handy as it may be.

 

I want to use the camera for portrets, landscapes, nature and architecture. Action pictures I can take with the more electronic ones. This one can have an old feeling to it.

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If I were in your position I'd go for either an SL or an R8. Most of the Rs are electonic in some respect so it makes sense to me to go for the latest - and the R8 appears to have a better viewfinder than the other R models. As someone who owns an SL, R4S and R8 I'd pick the R8 if I were keeping only one.

 

However, if you don't want an electronic camera you'd probably be happier with an SL. They aren't that expensive these days, quite often come with a 50mm Summicron and have an excellent bright voewfinder. However they are rather old these days, and as mentioned above the meter takes obsolete batteries - though as also mentioned there are solutions to that.

 

If you do go for the SL make sure the meter is working ok.

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In regard to batteries, IIRC the Leicaflexes used batteries that are no longer readily available.

 

The cameras are completely mechanical, but the meters of course are battery-powered.

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Another question: if I buy an R3, R4 or R5, how long does the battery last? I take it in a Leicaflex, they'll last very long as everything is manual exept the meter.

 

I would actually like the camera to be as manual as possible as I'm quite ennoyed sometimes with the electronics on my other camera's, handy as it may be.

 

I want to use the camera for portrets, landscapes, nature and architecture. Action pictures I can take with the more electronic ones. This one can have an old feeling to it.

 

The batteries in my R3 last for ages and I sometimes forget to turn it off too! (although I think battery drain is minimal once its in the case/lens cap on). My current set were replaced over a year ago anyway.

 

Here's another idea for you - if you are leaning towards an SL/SL2 for a more manual approach. Look for one that has a faulty meter or at least hasn't been modified to take new batteries, which will therefore sell for a lower price, and buy a hand held incident light meter instead.

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If you opt for a Leicaflex and the battery turns out to be hassle (though probably this issue can be solved), why not also get a separate handheld meter such as the Sekonic 308?

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Then Leicaflex SL, Leicaflex SL2 or Leica R6.2.

 

Or R6 or Leicaflex. I wouldn't get the Leicaflex, because the meter isn't as good as the SL or SL2. SL2s are pretty expensive because of their mere two year production run (and a better meter). There are about three times as many SLs as SL2, and they can be found fairly nominally with some searching. I understand the viewfinders on the SL and SL2 are fabulous, but bear in mind they're cameras from the 1970s. The R6s seem to be, as we say here, the red headed stepchild, and can be obtained at, relatively speaking, good prices. The R6.2, which is essentially the same camera except for a lighter shutter which allows 1/2000, is a bit overpriced.

 

I've heard nothing but good things about the R3. Based on the Minolta something that is high regarded. But it isn't a mechanical camera. It has aperture priority with an electronic shutter. Ditto for the R4. My brother used an R4 for awhile in the 1980's before going back to an M and seemed to like it.

 

With a bit of searching any of these cameras can be found well w/in your budget.

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James, the OP 'would actually like the camera to be as manual as possible as I'm quite ennoyed sometimes with the electronics on my other camera's' so apparently he's after a mecanical camera, or am i missing something?

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James, the OP 'would actually like the camera to be as manual as possible as I'm quite ennoyed sometimes with the electronics on my other camera's' so apparently he's after a mecanical camera, or am i missing something?

 

Manual I take it to mean manual exposure, focussing etc. If he's after a MECHANICAL camera then yes a Leicaflex or R6 is the answer.

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Another thing to consider with the SL2 is that often the higest shutter speeds don't work well. Mine has a problem with 1/2000 where the shutter doesn't remain open during its entire travel. So far I have not found anyone who can fix it. The SL does not suffer from the same disease.

 

The viewfinder is the brightest I have ever seen, and it's fun to see the crestfallen expression on friends' faces when you have them compare it with their brand new DSLRs!

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