M10 to M11

[Chris W]

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Yes, so far it's tough transition.

I was very happy with my M10. Lovely images. Although I hankered after a few more megapixels having loved the images from my Hasselblad X1D2 which I decided to sell.

Two days with an M11. It is showing up the deficiencies in my vintage M lenses. Those images are a bit fuzzy. I'm also seeing more out of focus results, despite shooting in daylight and testing my lenses at f2.8 and f5.6.

The M10 seemed to be more forgiving and I'm having trouble nailing a lot of shots with the M11 - so far.

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[Stephen.s1]

Ummm..  My experiences with the 10 to 11 have been just the opposite.  If you haven't yet; set it up with auto ISO.  Re-read the manual.

g'luck

[Eoin]

My transition from M10 to M10R & M11M required me to use faster shutter speeds to get crisp images. 

[darylgo]

Hi Chris, 

Rangefinder adjusted properly?  The slightest deviation reduces sharpness significantly.  

The M11 can be set to lower resolution.  

Curious, what vintage lenses?  My 50/f1 loved 24mp, the blue chromatic aberrations were very significant at 40mp when shooting into a light source.  All others look good at 60mp.  

[charlesphoto99]

1 hour ago, Stephen.s1 said:

Ummm..  My experiences with the 10 to 11 have been just the opposite.  If you haven't yet; set it up with auto ISO.  Re-read the manual.

g'luck

What would auto iso have to do with what Chris W is referring to?

[Chris W]

15 minutes ago, charlesphoto99 said:

What would auto iso have to do with what Chris W is referring to?

Agreed. I'm not using auto anything. 

I understand adjusting the aperture and shutter speed to avoid blurred images or too narrow a focus plane.

23 minutes ago, darylgo said:

Hi Chris, 

Rangefinder adjusted properly?  The slightest deviation reduces sharpness significantly.  

The M11 can be set to lower resolution.  

Curious, what vintage lenses?  

All late 80's, pre ASPH. A 35mm Summicron f2 (version 2?) and a 50mm Summilux f1.4 (version IV?). Also a new Voigtlander APO 50mm. The 35mm, which is my favourite lens is looking a bit fuzzy and orangey, saturated. The 50 Summilux looks nice, but very soft on the edges. The Voigtlander is a bit sharper and cooler.

I like all these lenses, but maybe the M11 wants to see a recent 35mm f1.4 or 50mm APO (Leica)?

[Chris W]

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54 minutes ago, Eoin said:

My transition from M10 to M10R & M11M required me to use faster shutter speeds to get crisp images. 

Could be 👍

[lct]

Auto iso allows to adjust shutter speeds based on the focal length of lenses, which can be useful to avoid camera shake blur on high res cameras sans IBIS as the M11. I set mine to 1/(2f)s for instance and my legacy lenses have never rendered better. FWIW.

[darylgo]

17 minutes ago, Chris W said:

 the M11 wants to see a recent 35mm f1.4 or 50mm APO (Leica)?

Perhaps, I find the M11 is spectacular with classic optics but that means nothing as we are speaking in generalities.    

I would want to try another body to see consistency.  

Forgive me if you know this, the first thing I do with any new lens or lens/body combination is focus on a metal object with a nice highlight at a near distance using the rangefinder, shot 1 is taken.  Then move the focus scale 1mm or less toward infinity, shot 2 is taken.  For shot 3 return to a properly focused setting.  Shot 4 is taken with the scale set 1mm or less toward close focus.  Comparing shots 1, 2 and 4 shows if the body and lens are rangefinder aligned, shots 2 and 4 show how consistent your eye is.  

[misteracng]

This could be a rangefinder calibration issue. I think more likely shutter shake in trying to resolve the 60mp of the M11. I use auto iso with no issues. but I think as said previous that the shutter speed is really an issue. Since there is no ibis and you are trying to resolve such a high megapixel count, any shake can reduce ultimate resolution. I am using the 1/4F shutter speed setting with auto iso. I found that even 1/2f can still cause a slight blur. Maybe less so on wide lenses like 28mm or wider. I just go with 1/4f and have no issues. 

[ronaldc]

I agree above, with a 50mm min I go is 1/250th, if there is movement min 1/500th 

[Jeff S]

Easy transition for me from M10 (24MP) to M10-R and M10M (both 40.89 MP). No change in shutter speed required; identical blur at equal magnification, screen or print.

[JNK100]

Could it be due to needing to select some of these lenses manually in the menu if not coded?

Just a thought as my transition 9-11( after a break) did not present any focus issues.

[pgh]

4 hours ago, Stephen.s1 said:

Ummm..  My experiences with the 10 to 11 have been just the opposite.  If you haven't yet; set it up with auto ISO.  Re-read the manual.

g'luck

lol

[pgh]

2 hours ago, Chris W said:

Agreed. I'm not using auto anything. 

I understand adjusting the aperture and shutter speed to avoid blurred images or too narrow a focus plane.

All late 80's, pre ASPH. A 35mm Summicron f2 (version 2?) and a 50mm Summilux f1.4 (version IV?). Also a new Voigtlander APO 50mm. The 35mm, which is my favourite lens is looking a bit fuzzy and orangey, saturated. The 50 Summilux looks nice, but very soft on the edges. The Voigtlander is a bit sharper and cooler.

I like all these lenses, but maybe the M11 wants to see a recent 35mm f1.4 or 50mm APO (Leica)?

I take it he means use auto ISO to compensate for the fact that you need higher shutter speeds at a given focal length to get results that are as reliably as sharp as the M11.

Except don't say that this is what might be happening because you'll have no shortage of people telling you that that issue doesn't exist (or have kid themselves into thinking it doesn't). He's right though, using auto ISO, with a setting of 4/f will reliably get your images just as sharp as on the M10. Of course, you will have a lot more images shot at higher ISO's, which is a different sort of compromise (or not really), depending on what you need out of your work. 

[Chris W]

5 hours ago, darylgo said:

Comparing shots 1, 2 and 4 shows if the body and lens are rangefinder aligned, shots 2 and 4 show how consistent your eye is.  

I'll try that.

I am getting some sharp  images, just random shots with slightly soft focus, which I haven't had with the M10.

[Chris W]

3 hours ago, JNK100 said:

Could it be due to needing to select some of these lenses manually in the menu if not coded?

 

Yeah, none of my lenses are coded. I do try and remember to manually select them.

[Chris W]

3 hours ago, pgh said:

I take it he means use auto ISO to compensate for the fact that you need higher shutter speeds at a given focal length to get results that are as reliably as sharp as the M11.

 

Sure, I haven't been using auto anything up to now. I was shooting my M10 completely manual. Mostly my shutter speed has been 500 on the M11, sometimes 250, maybe that's a problem.

I'm going to try Aperture priority and auto ISO tomorrow.

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[pgh]

I’ve never noticed the sort of issues referred to with having uncoded lenses (and not bothering with selecting, either) fwiw. Though that’s only been on 50 and  90 mm. I know the coding matters more for wides. 

[Chris W]

Thanks anyway. I'm going to give these techniques a try today.