Einst_Stein Posted July 8 Share #1  Posted July 8 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) The attached photo shows what is seen on monitor and what is seen from print out. The significant mismatch is due to the lighting. The monitor, of course, is self-luminate, but the environment lighting does not reveal the picture as bright and vivid as the monitor. If I project a strong light on to the print out, they look very similar. Here the paper is RRP UltraPro Glossy, and I am using RRP ICC. The monitor is Imac 27" Retina 5K, but I don't think it matters for my problem.  Yes, I understand the exibition lighting should be proper, but in my normal environment and normal viewing condition, the lighting would not be that strong. What would you do to minimize the mismatch between the print-out and the monitor?  Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Edited July 8 by Einst_Stein Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/422928-print-mismatch-monitor-due-to-lighting/?do=findComment&comment=5830559'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 8 Posted July 8 Hi Einst_Stein, Take a look here print mismatch monitor due to lighting. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Jeff S Posted July 9 Share #2  Posted July 9 (edited) Turn monitor brightness down to better approximate print viewing conditions.  If your prints are too dark, your monitor is too bright.  I would not rely on automatic monitor adjustments, and would also try to keep room lighting constant. And of course regularly calibrate your monitor and use soft proof mode to better control other variables.  Edited July 9 by Jeff S 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LocalHero1953 Posted July 9 Share #3  Posted July 9 (edited) 8 hours ago, Einst_Stein said: What would you do to minimize the mismatch between the print-out and the monitor?  I don't know what your starting knowledge base is. However, as always, calibrate both monitor and printer/paper. For the former, you need a device like a Calibrite Display Pro (the instructions that come with this tell you to reduce your monitor's brightness dramatically - it's a big surprise if you're not used to it). For the print, you need a profile that is specific to your paper and printer. The profile is selected in the Print module of Lightroom, or the respective section of whatever other software you're using. I know Jeff uses Imageprint, which takes a lot of the selection issues out of the equation, at a certain cost. I'm happy to manage it myself: I have a Calibrite device that will calibrate paper and printer and create a custom profile, but I can usually get close enough using the profiles supplied by Canson (my usual paper) for the Epson P800 printer. Edit. Aside from brightness, I see a colour difference between your two images: the monitor image has more green (to my eye). Edited July 9 by LocalHero1953 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedaes Posted July 9 Share #4  Posted July 9 8 hours ago, Einst_Stein said: The monitor is Imac 27" Retina 5K Until last year I was using this display. It is great, but backlit and therefore difficult to match acceptably to print, but you can get much much closer than your Post. As @LocalHero1953 says, Calibration is your friend. I used Datacolor and as said the first thing you do is match screen brightness to their target. Personally for colour prints I always tweaked Brightness a touch in Print Module (LrC) Just for future info, I now have 'graphics' monitor with built in calibration and the slight 'mattness' and hood makes a big difference. I would also suggest you watch some Jeff Schewe videos on Digital Printing (or buy his excellent book on the subject). 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmars Posted July 9 Share #5  Posted July 9 As has already been written: The differences are probably due to the fact that the monitor brightness was set too high. This is regularly the case with office monitors, which are usually well above 200 cd/m². For image processing, values of 80 to 120 cd/m² are correct, depending on the ambient light. If you cannot enter fixed values for your Mac monitor in the operating system, you should try adjusting the brightness down to almost the lowest level, then edit and print the image again. It should then look good in normal light.  1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitz Posted July 9 Share #6 Â Posted July 9 The iMac monitor and all monitors with glossy surfaces are simply not a good monitor for graphics. Â Companies such as Eizo, BenQ, Dell and others have a range of monitors (but not all their monitors) specifically made for graphics. Â They are noticeably more expensive than business class monitors and gaming monitors. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
UliWer Posted July 9 Share #7  Posted July 9 Advertisement (gone after registration) Another option - though perhaps not the best one - might be to increase the brightness of the print. In Lightroom Classics you go to "Print Settings" - "Printer Options" -"Print Settings" again - "Advanced Color Setting". Here you can increase the brightness of your print. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einst_Stein Posted July 9 Author Share #8 Â Posted July 9 4 hours ago, LocalHero1953 said: I don't know what your starting knowledge base is. However, as always, calibrate both monitor and printer/paper. For the former, you need a device like a Calibrite Display Pro (the instructions that come with this tell you to reduce your monitor's brightness dramatically - it's a big surprise if you're not used to it). For the print, you need a profile that is specific to your paper and printer. The profile is selected in the Print module of Lightroom, or the respective section of whatever other software you're using. I know Jeff uses Imageprint, which takes a lot of the selection issues out of the equation, at a certain cost. I'm happy to manage it myself: I have a Calibrite device that will calibrate paper and printer and create a custom profile, but I can usually get close enough using the profiles supplied by Canson (my usual paper) for the Epson P800 printer. Edit. Aside from brightness, I see a colour difference between your two images: the monitor image has more green (to my eye). You have very keen eyes, I think both white balance are greened and it should be due to the unprocessed photo of the two images. I have deleted this picture but I will chekc it by retaking and it and white balancing to grey on the paved path. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted July 9 Share #9  Posted July 9 Check your monitor brightness - it may be too high. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted July 10 Share #10 Â Posted July 10 The attached images are not a very good example given there are no whites (like the image border) in the bottom image to judge it's true brightness, but I think it's the monitor brightness (and/or contrast) as well. To check go through ACR using all the 'Auto' features, then in Lightroom or Photoshop check all the Auto features in that (auto colour, auto contrast, auto tone) and ignore what it looks like, don't manually adjust anything, then open that 'Auto' image on an iPad or iPhone and see what it looks like on that. I think you'll get a natural looking image on the iPad. Now with the image on your monitor side by side adjust your monitors brightness to match the iPad. It's a rough and ready approach and there are more scientific ways to do it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M11 for me Posted July 10 Share #11  Posted July 10 As it was said earier the monitor has to be calibrated (colours R G B, black, white and brightness). Then there are other things that come into play: Whenever I go to make prints then I go to my beautiful specialised shop. They look at an image on their monitor and they see immediately that some darker areas might be too dark. They just tell me what its not right. This happens regardless of proper calibration. I believe that printing is a very complex theme and takes a lot of experience. A monitor or a piece of paper are two different things. My settings for the Mac Studio Monitor looks like this: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! And with this setting (which unfortunately has to be a very precise position) with Datacolor Spyder the result is this: Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! And with this setting (which unfortunately has to be a very precise position) with Datacolor Spyder the result is this: ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/422928-print-mismatch-monitor-due-to-lighting/?do=findComment&comment=5831154'>More sharing options...
LocalHero1953 Posted July 10 Share #12 Â Posted July 10 (edited) I would find 180cd/m2 too bright. Mine is set to 120 cd/m2, which gives a reasonable match to a print. Edited July 10 by LocalHero1953 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmars Posted July 10 Share #13 Â Posted July 10 vor 15 Minuten schrieb LocalHero1953: I would find 180cd/m2 too bright. Mine is set to 120 cd/m2, which gives a reasonable match to a print. Yes! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LocalHero1953 Posted July 10 Share #14 Â Posted July 10 Aside from calibration and brightness, my biggest disappointments in printing have come from failing to soft proof before printing, or at least recognising that highly saturated colours may not print well. In general print gamuts are smaller than monitor gamuts. Soft proofing will show you where your print will just show flat colour rather than a nice tonal gradation - you will have to adjust the colour of the digital image. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted July 10 Share #15  Posted July 10 Well, my first response, minutes after initial post, prioritized monitor brightness, followed by monitor calibration and soft proofing mode to control other variables (including colors).  And also the suggestion to keep room lighting constant if possible. 🤪 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M11 for me Posted July 10 Share #16  Posted July 10 vor 7 Stunden schrieb LocalHero1953: I would find 180cd/m2 too bright. Mine is set to 120 cd/m2, which gives a reasonable match to a print. Thank you for that. Up to now I always made what my Spyder asked for. Now I tried this and I hit the setting on the spot: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/422928-print-mismatch-monitor-due-to-lighting/?do=findComment&comment=5831369'>More sharing options...
jaapv Posted July 10 Share #17  Posted July 10 Strange. My Spyder Elite X wants me at 120 cd/m^2.  For viewing I use more, depending on ambient light, for printing 120 is the highest I will go Normally 100 cd/^m2. Eizo CS2420. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einst_Stein Posted July 10 Author Share #18  Posted July 10 (edited) I view the calibration the advanced step. So I will learn it by doing the minimum calibration as needed, and using minimun cost of tools. I use the print out as the golden reference to tune the monitor’s brightness, making the light condition of the computer room to mimic the exhibition room during the day. Now the new printings look much closer to the monitor. My exibition room, actually the living room, does not have constant lighting, but that is another problem I cannot care for now. I also do the similar thing to turn down the TV I use to display my pictures, now they look much more comfortable.  . Edited July 10 by Einst_Stein Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted July 10 Share #19  Posted July 10 I have a dark corner to work in with some diffuse daylight. The main lighting is indirect from a 5500ºK continuous spectrum light.  I would not print without  regular calibration. It really makes a difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M11 for me Posted July 10 Share #20  Posted July 10 (edited) vor 22 Minuten schrieb jaapv: Strange. My Spyder Elite X wants me at 120 cd/m^2.  For viewing I use more, depending on ambient light, for printing 120 is the highest I will go Normally 100 cd/^m2. Eizo CS2420. Could it be that 120 or 180 is not that big a difference? That is what I feel at the moment. My screen is now set to 120 and I cannot see any difference 🫣 Edited July 10 by M11 for me Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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