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Circular polarizer for Q3?


Tjazz

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  • 4 weeks later...
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I have a Q2 with a protection filter (B+W 49mm Master Clear MRC Nano 007M Glass Filter) and I'm considering replacing it with a polarizing filter.

  1. With a polarizing filter, when you set your polarizing filter to neutral (no polarization), do you still lose light?
  2. In neutral, are there any other ways in which it will be optically inferior to the protection filter?
  3. If you don't, are there any reasons or situations where it would make sense to use the standard protection filter instead of the polarizer, or can I just get rid of the protection filter altogether?
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I wouldn’t put a polarizer on a lens permanently, although I might leave it on if I thought I was going to use it again during the day, or if it was too much hassle to take it off while walking in the hills etc. You will probably experience a loss of light, although the ISO will compensate but be careful letting it go too high. There’s also a chance that you accidentally turn the filter, don’t notice and end up with an effect you didn’t intend  

Many will counsel against using the protection filter. Personally, I do use a UV filter for protection unless I anticipate problems with reflections (Christmas lights are a nightmare because I find I get far more reflection with the filter on, presumably because the light is bouncing back off the filter as well as going directly onto the sensor). 

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4 hours ago, Naca said:

With a polarizing filter, when you set your polarizing filter to neutral (no polarization), do you still lose light?

Yes. 1.5 EV values approx.

All my lenses have protective (NOT UV!) filters.

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The idea in general is not to be recommended. Even if you turn the filter in neutral position it will be for that position only as the incoming polarized light is variable. Thus you will still get a density gradient across a clear blue sky, for instance, especially with a wideangle lens.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I had the GOBE ones (all screwed into one another for protection and transportation): CPL, UV, ND8, ND1000. In order to use them, you need to remove the lens hood and then, I just got the Lim's hood that makes it far easier. Of course, I had to get a lens cap, too.

CPL are interesting to me for street photography, when you want to play or avoid reflection, especially when shooting downtown and having shops in the frame.

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On 12/2/2023 at 8:24 AM, M11 for me said:

Can you not do this very easily in post processing? I use LR Classic and I see no need for a filter for that purpose. Do I miss something?

Remove reflexion? 
 

You can remove reflexions on Lightroom? 
 

I have not seen this yet. 
 

I use the Polarisation exclusive to dim down harsch reflexions 

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21 hours ago, Genoweffa said:

a side question..

How about 0.6 Grad ND filters on those Q lenses...anyone using them?

Yes me. 
I use them in bright daylight to get long exposures of 1/4. 

1000 nd eg. 

 

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1 minute ago, Pelu2010 said:

Yes me. 
I use them in bright daylight to get long exposures of 1/4. 

1000 nd eg. 

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

and this too 

 

 

 

And this is the company

https://www.kentfaith.com 

I think the filters are good. 
and I have use all kinds of filter from b&w to Hama, to Japanese ones … 

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1 hour ago, Pelu2010 said:

Yes me. 
I use them in bright daylight to get long exposures of 1/4. 

1000 nd eg. 

 

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Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

ND Grad...ie. "top" 2 stops down vs "bottom"...this is what I am asking about...not just ND...am I reading you reply wrong?

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9 minutes ago, ianforber said:

I stopped bothering with ND grads when I worked out how to use a gradient mask in post processing. I only ever used them with film photography anyway. I just make sure I expose for the highlights and go from there

I am with you...

I took them off from my 18, 21...but kept on 15 and 25

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8 hours ago, Genoweffa said:

ND Grad...ie. "top" 2 stops down vs "bottom"...this is what I am asking about...not just ND...am I reading you reply wrong?

that graduated filter is also in the set … 
 

I bought a set of magnetic filter. 
This in 49 mm 

https://www.kentfaith.com/SKU.1921_49mm-magnetic-lens-filter-kit-gnd8-nd8-nd64-nd1000-magnetic-adapter-ring-5-in-1-quick-swap-system-nano-x-series
 

and I tested this during my last travel. 
All the images from last month are made with this filter set. 
 

and I can’t find any difference between them and my older once. 
 

but the way you use them is completely different. 
 

Using filters was an awful process with sand coming in between me and the nice filter. 
 

these filters make it so easy to be changed that I am going to buy the bigger once too. 
 

cheers.

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12 hours ago, Pelu2010 said:

Yes me. 
I use them in bright daylight to get long exposures of 1/4. 

1000 nd eg. 

 

I second this…

Australia is known for its super harsh bright sunlight (it really does feel different to the northern hemisphere!) An ND filter is almost an essential if you want to use the full range of your camera’s settings without going into ridiculously high electronic shutter speeds…

Also: just try and blur water over here in summer without one 😝

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On 12/26/2023 at 9:59 PM, jaapv said:

All my lenses have protective (NOT UV!) filters.

I bought a Leica UV filter to protect my Q3's lens, so I'm interested why you emphatically state that you don't use a UV filter. Could you please explain why you prefer protection filters?

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Thinner, thus less aberrations, stronger glass, nanocoating is easier to keep clean. 
UV filters are to filter UV, (which is not needed on a lens built after 1950)  protective filters are made to protect. 

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1 minute ago, jaapv said:

Thinner, thus less aberrations, stronger glass, nanocoating is easier to keep clean. 
UV filters are to filter UV, (which is not needed on a lens built after 1950)  protective filters are made to protect. 

Thanks! To pick your brain even further, what brand and type do you prefer?

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